So I'm about to install as&m mid headers on my 96ss and I would ilke to now what header gaskets to use??

Also what headers bolts??

 

Fel Pros 1406. And if you get ARP bolts get the ones that have the 5/16 head

 

well if your flanges and heads are flat yes a regular graphite/composite gasket will work fine.........if there a little wavy grab some percys dead soft aluminum.....

 

Whatever header bolts you get get a 6 point head so you can use a open end wrench on it if needed. 12 points look nice but a 6 point is more versatile. I use Felpro 1470 gaskets with no problems.

 

Part number on those ARP bolts???

 

yea 12 points are frickin usless impossible to work with ...........

 

Whatever you do don't buy the copper gaskets they are garbage. I used them and they wouldn't seal for **** so I talked to larry at speed inc and he rec'd mr gasket ultra seal 5903s as that's all he uses on lt1 builds. Those as&m headers are notorious for bad flanges. Imo I would use the percy dead soft gaskets or the mr gasket 5903s as they have the softest gasket to make a sure seal.

 

Another vote for the 1406s. I've done a dozen header installs and never once have they leaked.

 

I used ARP 100-1109 bolts with the 5/16 head. Much better than the crap Pacesetter includes.

 

I used Felpro 1406's with ultra copper gasket maker on both sides of the gasket and I used the Breslin locking header bolts.

 

Copper gaskets for 4 years No issues at all!

 

thanks for the help...
so whats the part number on the percys??

 

I used the gaskets included with my headers and some cheap headerbolts from the part store, no problems with any of it.

 

Im running the mr gasket MLS they are just like the factory gasket and wont blow if the header comes loose. I had header come loose under a 200 shot and we would just tighten the bolts and would be good to go. Felt pro gaskets are great baskets but of your headed comes a little loose those gaskets blow.

 

Another 1406 here.

 

Remflex , hands down.
This is why,

1-1/2"w x 1-5/8"h Large D-Shaped Port
fits LT1 ('92-'97)
For Header Applications, Compare to Fel-Pro #1406
2/Set
• Seals Warped Flanges

Remflex exhaust gaskets come in a standard 1/8-inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%. This allows them to fill gaps in the flange surface up to 1/16-inch!

• Won’t Burn Out:

100% flexible graphite construction means Remflex gaskets are good for up to 3,000 degrees F—far exceeding that of any vehicle’s exhaust system temperature!

• No Re-Torquing Necessary:

Remflex exhaust gaskets rebound 30%, creating an optimum seal that eliminates the need to re-torque!

About Remflex

Remflex’s unique flexible graphite material has been proven for more than 30 years in industrial applications, where temperatures routinely exceed 2,000 degrees—day after day, week after week, year after year. Now, we’re bringing this technology to enthusiasts of all kinds to eliminate exhaust leaks for good! Whether you have an old pick-up that needs a manifold gasket, or a race car with custom-built headers, you can be assured that Remflex exhaust gaskets will work properly the first time, every time.

The Science

Remflex gaskets work because they solve the two main problems associated with sealing an exhaust flange: Warping, and gasket failure.

Warped Reality

A common misconception is that, if you spend a lot of money for high-quality headers with thick flanges, leaks will not be an issue. In truth, a thicker flange does help, but it can’t solve the problem of warping altogether. Constant thermal cycling, especially in high performance and/or high-load environments, causes warping of header flanges and cast iron exhaust manifolds--even the exhaust flange of the cylinder head itself.

Once the sealing surface is warped, leaks are imminent—and once there is a leak, pitting of the exhaust port sealing surface usually follows. A new set of average gaskets won’t fix the problem—but Remflex gaskets, with a 50% crush built in—can seal gaps as large as 1/16-inch. And unlike traditional gaskets, they won’t shrink, so they never require re-torquing. If you can’t take the heat…

Curiously, the number one cause of exhaust gasket failure is heat—the very thing exhaust gaskets are supposed to withstand. That’s because traditional exhaust gaskets are made of composite materials—blends of natural fibers and synthetic compounds that are bound together using rubber. Simply put, it’s only a matter of time until the extreme temperature in the vehicle’s exhaust system burns the gasket’s composite materials away, resulting in an exhaust leak.

You’ve no doubt experienced the pungent odor that arises from the engine compartment after you install a new set of the top-brand exhaust gaskets. That’s the smell of the rubber binders in the composite materials that begin to burn out almost immediately. And once the rubber overheats, it begins to shrink, as well has harden. That’s why you are instructed to re-torque the gaskets regularly, and why an exhaust leak will develop if you don’t. Remflex exhaust gaskets are made from 100% flexible graphite and can withstand up to 3,000 degrees F—so they are not affected by exhaust system, and won’t burn out, shrink, or leak. Not now, not ever!

PN# RF2007
Here's some
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=94297068530

 

Remflex, i will say they are good 1 time use gaskets but if you need to pull a head or remove the gasket it peels off very easy. i used this on my last nitrous build, i did like them until i had to remove one and it pretty much did not want to come off and i had to replace them both.

 

Well,.. IMO a gasket should never be reused.. So... Glad to hear you liked them .

 

Thanks guys for taking your time posting the info.. Any links for the bolts and Percy gaskets....

 

I have had very good luck using the factory embossed, soft steel manifold gaskets. Ive used them over and over again with no problems. And on the rare ocasion when a couple header bolts back out and I get a leak, they dont blow out. I just tighten them up and the leak goes away. Good luck with what ever you choose. Eric L