No engine build..need suspension help!!
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Staging Lane
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No engine build..need suspension help!! Ok so i decided to hold off on building the engine so i can do it right!
what I need help is with suspension what are important suspension parts i should purchase? i have AGX 8-way shocks in the rear and will get them for the front...im definitly gettin front and rear sway bars but i need help with other parts that i should get and what most important..so please list the parts i should get id really appreciate it thanks!! Its a 94 Z28 M6...I want the car to have an aggressive stance as well thanks guys!
what I need help is with suspension what are important suspension parts i should purchase? i have AGX 8-way shocks in the rear and will get them for the front...im definitly gettin front and rear sway bars but i need help with other parts that i should get and what most important..so please list the parts i should get id really appreciate it thanks!! Its a 94 Z28 M6...I want the car to have an aggressive stance as well thanks guys!
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Staging Lane
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I would strongly recommend subframe connectors (weld in preferably) as the first mod, got to have a strong foundation to start with....they make a huge difference in chasis rigidity and the car will hook up better, and it eliminates rattles. This is a MUST if the car has t-tops. Then focus on the rear end (contol arms, LCA relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard bar) so you have some traction. Then do the lowering springs/shocks and bigger sway bars (HUGE difference in handling). Lastly, change ALL your suspension bushings to poly and the motor and trans mounts. I have all this stuff on my car and it's like night and day compared stock, it handles like it's on rails.
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Staging Lane
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thats awesome info thanks...definitely jumping on the subframe connectors but whats the difference between bolt on and weld-in..also you know the cheapest place for a roll cage want 6 point ive seen 289+shipping for a weld in one just curios if prices are any lower?
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A 6-point is a roll bar, not a roll cage, FYI.
$289+shipping for a 6-point bar? Where at? A decent bar plus install is going to run you an easy $1000 to be done properly. Not sure what you're looking at, but my pre-jig-notched Wolfe 6-point bar was just under $1000 installed, and that's with a significant discount.
And what's the difference between weld-in and bolt-in? Really?
A bolt-in requires that you drill a bunch of holes and bolt the bar in. I personally don't like the bolt-ins. Alot of guys go with them then have them welded in later, but why would you want to rip your interior out twice if you don't have to? Weld-in bars are also stronger.
$289+shipping for a 6-point bar? Where at? A decent bar plus install is going to run you an easy $1000 to be done properly. Not sure what you're looking at, but my pre-jig-notched Wolfe 6-point bar was just under $1000 installed, and that's with a significant discount.
And what's the difference between weld-in and bolt-in? Really?
A bolt-in requires that you drill a bunch of holes and bolt the bar in. I personally don't like the bolt-ins. Alot of guys go with them then have them welded in later, but why would you want to rip your interior out twice if you don't have to? Weld-in bars are also stronger. LS1 Tech Stories
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More on the subframe connectors. The bolt in version uses factory holes so there is no drilling required. They can be unbolted/taken off your vehicle at any point.
As stated above, the welded version is technically stronger. However, I have yet to see a single time where the bolts in a bolt in SFC setup break. I have even asked BMR and UMI and neither had anything to say or horror stories of a bolt in SFC setup breaking.
Also, if you go with bolt in, you can have them welded in as well. Kind of a "double insurance" type deal.
Personally, I never modify my car in a way that it cant go 100% back to stock, so I went with the bolt in SFC's, and never plan on welding them in.
As stated above, the welded version is technically stronger. However, I have yet to see a single time where the bolts in a bolt in SFC setup break. I have even asked BMR and UMI and neither had anything to say or horror stories of a bolt in SFC setup breaking.
Also, if you go with bolt in, you can have them welded in as well. Kind of a "double insurance" type deal.
Personally, I never modify my car in a way that it cant go 100% back to stock, so I went with the bolt in SFC's, and never plan on welding them in.
The problem with bolt-in SFCs is that all of the shock load the SFCs would normally absorb is transferred directly to the bolt shanks themselves. Hard launching and cornering can allow the holes in the SFCs to grind ever so slightly and elongate, reducing the effectiveness of the SFCs. I've seen on a buddies car who had bolt-in bars that after 2 years the holes had been opened up almost a quarter of an inch.
Weld-in bars spread the load over a greater surface area and withstand more flex.
Weld-in bars spread the load over a greater surface area and withstand more flex.
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Staging Lane
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i obviously know what the difference is i was looking to see whats stronger ....heres the site for the roll bar http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=234 .....i really wont go back to stock so ill prolly go with the weld in...
That $289 doesn't include the jig-notching. It's a HORRIBLE idea to buy the bar without the notches, otherwise you're adding several hours worth of test fitting and notching. Expect to pay over $1000 once all is said and done.
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Staging Lane
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i know its 100 plus for the notching and 150 for shipping..i got a buddy that does roll bar installing so i know its gona be about 550...it cost alot to do installing? my buddy is doing it for free but just curious what it cost to install
