I bought a set of plastic fuel line disconnect tools. They were horrible, but they were 7 bucks for the set. I could only get 1 line off and that was after 20 minutes of WTF, it just suddenly popped off with my "1 more time or I'm done with this BS" effort. So I went to napa and used my student dicount to get 2 individual metal ones that are nice and sturdy for $11. And they worked the 1st time.

 

those things work but when you use them push the fuel line onto the steel line more as you push the tool in......kinda squeeze them togheter then pull the line off......

 

ill let you know when they come out. Ill try not to damage them when getting them out. The reason im doing it, is because it looks a whole lot easier to do the conversion now that the heads will be off, rather than regreting it later on.

How do you guys deal with broken bolts that didnt come out all the way? I broke the first one off from the exhaust manifold , and i cant figure out a way to get it out without using any welding tools. Im finding it pretty difficult to get those bolts out.

 

Make sure you get the correct weather pack connector for the map sensor. There are several 3 pin connectors with different key slots.

 

Regret what?? There are no issues with them unless rotten seals .. But ok...

Well if it just broke the head off once you pull the manifold spray it good with pb blaster get some vice grips and back it outta the head.. If it's broke off in the head then pb blazer and an easy out... Or a machine shop, since you need to have them checked for warpage and milled they can get it out .. Use lots of pb blaster and let it soak in awhile.

 

I work at a GM dealership and as for the MAP sensor connector, get the pigtail. At the dealer it will be $45.xx

Here on GMpartsdirect, it's 21.xx. Here's the GM p/n 12085502

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

For the fuel lines, use the tool and push forward on the line, insert tool then pull line off. on

 

I could never get that metal fuel disconnect tool to work. I picked up a nice plastic Lisle set off of Summit that work great.

If you can, soak all of the bolts in PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. Even better if you can do it a few times.

When you are ready to remove the driver side head, don't forget to release the plastic wire loom holder on the back of the head. Its hidden from view and there isn't a whole lot of slack on the wire back there if you pull on the head without knowing. Also make sure you have drained the coolant from BOTH drain plugs on the block before you loosen the head bolts; ask me how I know.

 

Thanks for the tips. Who wouldve thought the most difficult part so far out of all this, was to remove the exhaust manifolds bolts? lol I really wanted to get that out today because i wont have time to work on her again till next week.

Im thinking about getting headers instead of a cam for now. Later on ill order my head gaskets, header gaskets, head bolts, header bolts, and a pushrod measuring tool.

I only managed to get two out from the drivers side. I have no idea how im gonna reach the back ones on the exhaust manifold, but ill deal with that later. Right now ill buy some pb blaster and spray it on the bolts to let it soak in. I still wont have any time to work on her until next week so ill repeat that a couple times.


Thanks for everyones help

 

Stock manifolds on an old car, yea...Exhaust bolts go through hell and get very nicely rusted in, air cooled motorcycle engines are a nightmare with exhaust bolts. I got a few "pops" from mine but lukily no broken. PB blaster will help, As bad as this may sound i normally use a jack handle slipped over the end of the ratchet. I think it can give a little more control over it without killing yourself, really need to be 100% sure the socket is seated on the bolt correctly befor doing this. It can also help to slightly tighten them at first, id rather break a bolt head off easing it tighter and looser then just giving it hell and snapping it. When it comes to the y pipe, If your doing headers my tip is to get some extensions on the ratchet, use a pipe or jack handle for leverage, and tighten them till they snap . I cant remember if I got the back bolts from up top or below the car, and ive done it twice lol. I think you can normally get to them from the top with the right combination of deep well or shallow with extension, the i put the pipe on the ratchet and get it positioned to were i have the most leverage, hold the ratchet with one hand tight on the bolt and give it hell.

Be sure to remove the coolant sensor on the drivers side under the header, ive broken 2 of them!

It sounds like this car isnt your daily driver, I would get a cam right now. Your alot closer to a cam swap now then you are when its fully assembled again. Since your doing the rest of the work i think it would make sense instead of ripping it apart again.

 

The drains will be where the knock sensors are at. be careful with those too. They're about $56ea.

 

Thanks for the tips, ill remember to drain the coolant from the heads before loosening them. I also returned the fuel rail disconnect tool today, recycled my engine oil, and i sprayed the bolts with pb blaster. Ill keep spraying them throught the week. Im going to have to buy some sort of special tools in order to get those bolts off. My regular wrenches and sockets dont seem to work here.

And no the car isnt my DD anymore. Shes been sitting for around 2 or 3 months. Theres no hurry to get her on the street luckily. Ive been daily driving my bike, and ill use our truck when i have to carry things around, or the weather is bad.
The way i see it, i need to spend over $300 in pushrods and rockers and with all the tools and extra stuff im buying, its all adding up. I think headers will make this project a little easier, as for a cam, itll just give me a little more work to do. I could really use all the help i can get with those exhaust manifolds lol.

 

Hate to put it this way and sound like im throwing stupid info out. But since the heads are comming off, and they are being such a pain i think your best bet is to not care as much. Like someone else said, they can drill it out and tap it at the machine shop. I would find a long pipe and just start wrenching. They wont come out smooth or easily. The intake manifold bolts probably came out WAY easier then they shouldve. Most loose torque over time and heat cycles, exhaust bolts work the opposite. A very loud pop isnt rare to hear when loosening them.

Its not really the best info anyone has givin in this post, But since the heads are comming off i would just go for it. They are a hassle that in your situation can be fixed easily.

I have done 2 header swaps and ive never used any special tool, infact the only special tools i have are the lt1 valve spring tool and a fuel like disconnect. Its a massive PITA, and you have to find the correct "code" of extensions and sockets. A swivel socket might help you but they are easy to break as well.

it does sound like a good idea to spray them all week. I just wouldnt get to pissed off if one snaps. Are you using anything for leverage? Is the starter off of the car? is the y pipe off? Removing parts in your way make things easier. If your doing headers and your y pipe isnt out yet, get that bastard out so you can get some more room to get to the stock manifold bolts. Sawzalls come in very handy. Are you doing emissions headers or not? that AIR tube is a bitch.

Just stay creative, and walk away when it pisses you off. Your not exactly doing anything easy here. And if your not bleeding yet, or almost had your hand and the car become 1, your not tryin hard enough! (haha j/k)

 

lol yeah it gets pretty frustrating at times. I was actually thinking of removing the heads with the exhaust manifolds still attached to the heads, but i dont know if that was a good idea i had, or the booze talking.
For the mean time ill be making a list of everything ill need to buy, including parts, gaskets, tools etc... and figure out what im looking at price wise, to see what i can afford. Ill post this later on.

How do you guys clean the intake manifold and similar parts? Im thinking about taking it to a local shop and have it cleaned and painted.

 

I don't think there's any way to remove the heads with the manifolds attached, you can't access all of the lower head bolts even with headers. Do you have the y-pipe off yet? If not, an impact gun makes short work of the y-pipe bolts. That way it gives you a little extra room to try and get the mainfold bolts out.

Brake cleaner and a rag if its not too dirty, else I'll throw really dirty stuff in the parts washer.

I just yanked off my heads yesterday, if you get stuck somewhere, feel free to PM me since its all still fresh in my head...

 

Cool, ill let you know of i need any more help. Im ordering the pushrod lenght check tool today. I already unbolted the driver's side exhaust manifold. I had to buy a longer socket to remove the one stud that was giving me a hassle. I removed the spark plugs on the drivers side too, and now i need to work on the passenger's side. Ill work on it on friday if i can.
Theres just that one bolt thread still stuck to the drivers side head, but im sure any shop can safely remove it.