LT1 Head Gasket progress
LT1 Head Gasket progress I finally decided to try and replace my head gaskets on my a4 96 z28. I already removed the valve covers and had to get the traction control unit out of the way for the drivers side. I removed the alternator and throttle body. However im kinda stuck on the fuel lines. I heard i need a fuel line disconnect tool, but the manual im following shows nothing about using a tool.
Also, can anyone tell me what this is? I accidentally broke it while trying to remove it.
Will i need to buy a new connector or something?
If i have time tomorow, ill remove the exhaust manifolds, and ill try tro figure out the fuel line removal out. If not ill have to wait till monday.
Also if you guys got any tips for the process let me know.
Thanks for any help!
Also, can anyone tell me what this is? I accidentally broke it while trying to remove it.
Will i need to buy a new connector or something?
If i have time tomorow, ill remove the exhaust manifolds, and ill try tro figure out the fuel line removal out. If not ill have to wait till monday.
Also if you guys got any tips for the process let me know.
Thanks for any help!
The connection for our fuel lines and the tool needed is the Same concept illustrated in this ford application video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ...e_gdata_player
Goto auto zone and get the $10 or less GM" fuel line quick disconnect tool..There are two sizes, get the one that has both..Yes you broke the map sensor plug and will need to re-pin a new one on..
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
Don't break ****!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ...e_gdata_player
Goto auto zone and get the $10 or less GM" fuel line quick disconnect tool..There are two sizes, get the one that has both..Yes you broke the map sensor plug and will need to re-pin a new one on..
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
Don't break ****!
Last edited by defaultexistence; Dec 17, 2011 at 10:17 PM.
You can get away with leaving the fuel lines connected. Just pop the rails and injectors off the manifold, then rotate it up and lay it on the windshield/cowl.
But if you want to remove them, get the OEM metal disconnect tools from Autozone. The plastic ones suck.
EFI Connection offers replacement high-quality connectors for a good price. Check their ebay store.
But if you want to remove them, get the OEM metal disconnect tools from Autozone. The plastic ones suck.
EFI Connection offers replacement high-quality connectors for a good price. Check their ebay store.
Napa sells Weatherpack shells (but they list them as something else so you'll need to dig through the books). Easiest way to fix your broken connector would be to get a new shell and a Weatherpack terminal release tool. Then simply pop the ends out of the old connector and put them in the new one. No crimping, so soldering.
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B000IIY56E
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B000IIY56E
Goto auto zone and get the $10 or less GM" fuel line quick disconnect tool..There are two sizes, get the one that has both..Yes you broke the map sensor plug and will need to re-pin a new one on..
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
Don't break ****!
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-Trucks.html
Don't break ****!
You can get away with leaving the fuel lines connected. Just pop the rails and injectors off the manifold, then rotate it up and lay it on the windshield/cowl.
But if you want to remove them, get the OEM metal disconnect tools from Autozone. The plastic ones suck.
EFI Connection offers replacement high-quality connectors for a good price. Check their ebay store.
But if you want to remove them, get the OEM metal disconnect tools from Autozone. The plastic ones suck.
EFI Connection offers replacement high-quality connectors for a good price. Check their ebay store.
No doubt, especially on a 15 year old car. It broke very easily
Napa sells Weatherpack shells (but they list them as something else so you'll need to dig through the books). Easiest way to fix your broken connector would be to get a new shell and a Weatherpack terminal release tool. Then simply pop the ends out of the old connector and put them in the new one. No crimping, so soldering.
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B000IIY56E
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard.../dp/B000IIY56E
Again thanks for the help and tips!
Best thing to do is to get as much crap out of the engine bay as possible so it is a good idea to get the fuel rails out.
Other thing you'll need is an offset 9/16" box end wrench for one of the bolts that is fastened to the head through the accessory bracket. There is another bolt, same size, that is behind the power steering pump. Pump needs to come off the bracket in order reach the bolt.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqx8C...e_gdata_player
You can buy either one , but like stated buy the pin removal tool to back the pins outta the broken connection.. Do them one at a time and repin them in proper location on the new plug.. Your not alone, I broke my map plug the first time I had to remove my intake.. It was very brittle . As most of the others I have since replaced..
Last edited by defaultexistence; Dec 18, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks for the help guys. As for the pushrods, yes i will measure them first, that vid really helps out. However, i couldve sworn i saw one that was covered in gunk or whatever it was. Ill take a better look today. Sucks that the days are so short.
So i had some time to work on her today, but i still couldnt remove the damn fuel lines. I tried for a good while, and even my stepdad gave it a try and we couldnt get em off. Heres what happened to the fuel line disconnect tool...
It was just a cheap vatozone one with the 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. So imma return it today.
Anyway i just kept going with the fuel rails still intact, and even though it was a PITA, i managed to remove the intake manifold. That gave me enough room to move the fuel rails over the wiring harness and finally, out of the way. So now all i need is to remove the exhaust manifolds, rockers, pushrods and springs to pull off the heads right? Heres what she currently looks like at night
You can see some spots where the coolant went in and mixed with the oil
It was just a cheap vatozone one with the 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. So imma return it today.
Anyway i just kept going with the fuel rails still intact, and even though it was a PITA, i managed to remove the intake manifold. That gave me enough room to move the fuel rails over the wiring harness and finally, out of the way. So now all i need is to remove the exhaust manifolds, rockers, pushrods and springs to pull off the heads right? Heres what she currently looks like at night
You can see some spots where the coolant went in and mixed with the oil
Steam Pipe bolted with banjo bolts to back of heads.. You'll need 4 new gaskets there..
Cheapest i found are GM PN#10108689 on gmpartseast.com ... If you do a cam make sure you check the oil pump drive for wear and at least install a new pump drive steel collar'd shaft..
Cheapest i found are GM PN#10108689 on gmpartseast.com ... If you do a cam make sure you check the oil pump drive for wear and at least install a new pump drive steel collar'd shaft..
Steam Pipe bolted with banjo bolts to back of heads.. You'll need 4 new gaskets there..
Cheapest i found are GM PN#10108689 on gmpartseast.com ... If you do a cam make sure you check the oil pump drive for wear and at least install a new pump drive steel collar'd shaft..
Cheapest i found are GM PN#10108689 on gmpartseast.com ... If you do a cam make sure you check the oil pump drive for wear and at least install a new pump drive steel collar'd shaft..
As for the oil pump, how does a new oil pump drive shaft differ from just getting a GM white spring? From what i heard, the white spring will allow you to run more pressure without affecting idle. Will a new oil pump drive shaft work the same? or do they serve a different purpose?
Ahh thanks for reminding me. Im planning on doing Speed Density's coolant crossover conversion shown here. Im going to follow that once i get them off. For the meantime, ill get a friend to help me remove both heads at the same time.
As for the oil pump, how does a new oil pump drive shaft differ from just getting a GM white spring? From what i heard, the white spring will allow you to run more pressure without affecting idle. Will a new oil pump drive shaft work the same? or do they serve a different purpose?
As for the oil pump, how does a new oil pump drive shaft differ from just getting a GM white spring? From what i heard, the white spring will allow you to run more pressure without affecting idle. Will a new oil pump drive shaft work the same? or do they serve a different purpose?
also that coolant crossover may come really close to the fire wall you can do it with 90* fittings out of the heads and straight hose end fittings.......cheaper also........heres mine i did this mainly to clear some stuff that was in the way.....
Last edited by quik95lt1; Dec 19, 2011 at 07:44 AM.
@quick95lt1, thanks for the pic, thats kinda what i was planning to do. Since the heads will be out, i shouldnt struggle with getting the 90* fittings to face the right direction. So for the oil shaft/spring, itll be ok without upgrading anything (assuming everythings in proper working condition)? If i were to get a cam it will most likely be a cc503 for now.
@merv, ill make sure i write that size down. I can already picture a lowes employee telling me to go to aisle 2 or 7 with a confused look in his face lol
EDIT; today ill unbolt the exhaust manifolds, remove the coolant pipes, rockers, springs, and pushrods, and finally get the heads out.
Thanks again for the help.
@merv, ill make sure i write that size down. I can already picture a lowes employee telling me to go to aisle 2 or 7 with a confused look in his face lol
EDIT; today ill unbolt the exhaust manifolds, remove the coolant pipes, rockers, springs, and pushrods, and finally get the heads out.
Thanks again for the help.
@quick95lt1, thanks for the pic, thats kinda what i was planning to do. Since the heads will be out, i shouldnt struggle with getting the 90* fittings to face the right direction. So for the oil shaft/spring, itll be ok without upgrading anything (assuming everythings in proper working condition)? If i were to get a cam it will most likely be a cc503 for now.
@merv, ill make sure i write that size down. I can already picture a lowes employee telling me to go to aisle 2 or 7 with a confused look in his face lol
EDIT; today ill unbolt the exhaust manifolds, remove the coolant pipes, rockers, springs, and pushrods, and finally get the heads out.
Thanks again for the help.
@merv, ill make sure i write that size down. I can already picture a lowes employee telling me to go to aisle 2 or 7 with a confused look in his face lol
EDIT; today ill unbolt the exhaust manifolds, remove the coolant pipes, rockers, springs, and pushrods, and finally get the heads out.
Thanks again for the help.
There is No reason to not reuse the stock steam pipe and banjo bolts unless they are broke .. Why rig **** when there's no reason? And no don't screw with the oil pump pressure.. Lots of people report drive failures after doing so.. You don't need the extra pressure..
I'll take your steam pipe and banjo bolts if you don't want them..
You may also need a valve seal install tool...
I'll take your steam pipe and banjo bolts if you don't want them..
You may also need a valve seal install tool...
gotcha.......just a suggestion when you put the valves back in might as well lap them with some light compound while you're there to clean up the seat........also with the valve seals you dont need a tool pop the old ones off with a needle nose plyers and the new ones put them on in a rotating downward motion.....you'll have no issues