lt1 383 ?s
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From: delaware
lt1 383 ?s ok my dad is about to buy a 94 i think z28 pr a parts car the top end of the motor id puled off the heads were cleand up and redone will come with heads so me and my dad were tinking i have a spare lt1 now about doing a 383.we would like to keep in a nice car not realy a big cam or any of that and it still have good mpg to say low 12s to mid 11s we got talking about boost to i say prochager but he was thinking sts turbo? pleas for give my bad spelling and grammer to and is the msd opti worth the 500 bucks ? just trying to get thots flowing here and how far can you go with the stock heads ported?
one last ? whats the red color called on a 93 z28 its like maroon and dos any one have that cooler on there car would be cool to see some nice lt1 camaros i see mostly ls1 cars lol
one last ? whats the red color called on a 93 z28 its like maroon and dos any one have that cooler on there car would be cool to see some nice lt1 camaros i see mostly ls1 cars lol
Just a quick reply to some of your questions. You dont need a 383 to go midmid 12's or high 11's. A nice heads and cam package will get you there. I didnt see you mention what tranny you have so im goona assume its an a4. Get a converter and some gears and you'll get to your goal alot easier. The MSD opti IMO is not worth the money. Instead get a GM unit. Post a pic of your car and I will garuntee someone will have that color and will name it for you. Good luck.
The MSD opti is vastly MORE troublesome than the stocker, on a 94 I would use the MSD cap and rotor which would add a vent system.
No reason to have mileage that low I get high teens with my car which is a lot bigger and heavier, look at the performance and that is naturally aspirated without a stroker, the cam is a little rowdy. This is ported GM aluminum LT1 heads and intake.
I wouldn't look at boost unless you are willing to put a rollbar in the car because any vaguely decently done boosted LT1 should be that fast.
No reason to have mileage that low I get high teens with my car which is a lot bigger and heavier, look at the performance and that is naturally aspirated without a stroker, the cam is a little rowdy. This is ported GM aluminum LT1 heads and intake.
I wouldn't look at boost unless you are willing to put a rollbar in the car because any vaguely decently done boosted LT1 should be that fast.
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From: delaware
93 z28 the 2.73 rear will stay no pw pl or ttops both cars are hard tops no bose the 93 is one step away from a 1le the ony thing thay car got car with was ac and the z28 op not even the z rated tires yes its a 4l60
color is Medium patriot red metallic
color is Medium patriot red metallic
I have never had an issue with my MSD dizzy, that said I agree a good set of heads and matched cam will get you a very good street car. As for a power adder, I had a procharger and it was fun, but the belt issue I had from time to time killed me, I ended up removing it for a nos setup that I loved until the bottle was empty. I have since removed the nitrous for a home built rear mount turbo set up. All I can say is I will never go nitrous or pro charger again. The sound, performance and shot eating grin was worth every penny. And most people can not believe someone would turbo a z28. Great times and good luck with your project.
If you think the 2.73s are worth keeping NOBODY here can help you atall.
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From: delaware
we we would lie to keep the 2.73s for mpg and just how nice it is to cruse at 65+ only turning 1500rpms could go 3.23s and trans am boosted how did you do that set up i got a 92 camaro rs 3.4 v6 kinda been thinking about doing that all thow a home mad roost blower would be cool ?
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Your MPG won't change that much.
And truthfully if your MPG is that important then maybe you shouldn't be doing a performance build. That car will be abysmal to drive with 2.73s. There's a reason gears are one of the most important modification to ANY performance car.
And truthfully if your MPG is that important then maybe you shouldn't be doing a performance build. That car will be abysmal to drive with 2.73s. There's a reason gears are one of the most important modification to ANY performance car.
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3.42s would probably HELP your fuel economy.
Lugging an engine works for the crappy EPA tests but not in the real world.
I get high teens out of my over 2 ton pig with 4.10s and enough power to run mid 11s.
You see how wildly far off target your assumptions and ideas are? Best advise anyone can give you is do at least a winters worth or reading before touching the car. If you dive in now you are going to screwup in a big way.
Lugging an engine works for the crappy EPA tests but not in the real world.
I get high teens out of my over 2 ton pig with 4.10s and enough power to run mid 11s.
You see how wildly far off target your assumptions and ideas are? Best advise anyone can give you is do at least a winters worth or reading before touching the car. If you dive in now you are going to screwup in a big way.
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From: delaware
kkkk ok well i mean my spelling limmits me its not my first time on a car nor 350 so i mean i know what can be done and how to but i know the lt1/ls1 motor take to mods like kids in a candy store so how far can you take the stock heads? and we got talking and the tops rear gear would be a 3.55 and i have a ? take a just frech lt1 350 vs a 190k lt1 350 any note in power you think ?
a rebuild on a 190k engine would deffinetly gain some power.
Smart thing to do would be the thinner head gaskets to bump compresson too.
For an auto you would be good finding a stock 3.42 rear, or if youve set up a diff befor, get just the gears and save alot of money.
You will also need a stall converter. This will also effect gas mileage. Some of the higher priced and better brand stalls do what a stall is supposed to do ALOT better then others. My tci 3500 is a loose bitch, ive heard a yank 3200 or 3600 isnt as loose, this would improve driveability and be better for city mpg as well.
Stock Unported heads are normally good for 12.0 to 12.5, plan on 12.5-13.0. This is with a camshaft, 1.6 rockers, and all nessecary bolt ons.
Most Lt1 cams from a/i or LE are ground with valve lift numbers around .570-ish. Stock heads flow their max CFM @ .500 lift and then drop. Aftermarket ported heads will Flow @ .600 lift, so your making more use from the cam. Most can see about 40-60hp from good ported heads over stock heads with a cam only car. head/cam packages end result can be 125-140hp gain.
You need to start with the basics, headers(preferably longtube), intake, y pipe, catback/exhaust. Having these parts is a must. Then your going to need a stall converter, also a good time to do gears/tires. This could get you into high 12's theoretically. Suspension needs to come into the equation at some point as well as tuning.
Unless you have 4-5K$ sitting around to buy all these parts at once, dont start loosening any bolts.
Smart thing to do would be the thinner head gaskets to bump compresson too.
For an auto you would be good finding a stock 3.42 rear, or if youve set up a diff befor, get just the gears and save alot of money.
You will also need a stall converter. This will also effect gas mileage. Some of the higher priced and better brand stalls do what a stall is supposed to do ALOT better then others. My tci 3500 is a loose bitch, ive heard a yank 3200 or 3600 isnt as loose, this would improve driveability and be better for city mpg as well.
Stock Unported heads are normally good for 12.0 to 12.5, plan on 12.5-13.0. This is with a camshaft, 1.6 rockers, and all nessecary bolt ons.
Most Lt1 cams from a/i or LE are ground with valve lift numbers around .570-ish. Stock heads flow their max CFM @ .500 lift and then drop. Aftermarket ported heads will Flow @ .600 lift, so your making more use from the cam. Most can see about 40-60hp from good ported heads over stock heads with a cam only car. head/cam packages end result can be 125-140hp gain.
You need to start with the basics, headers(preferably longtube), intake, y pipe, catback/exhaust. Having these parts is a must. Then your going to need a stall converter, also a good time to do gears/tires. This could get you into high 12's theoretically. Suspension needs to come into the equation at some point as well as tuning.
Unless you have 4-5K$ sitting around to buy all these parts at once, dont start loosening any bolts.
spend a few months reading then come spring try and attend some events and get a ride in some cars.
With lockup and overdrive, a really deep first gear, fuel injection, etc a lot more than you think becomes perfectly drivable.
Hell my car has AC, power seatS etc. and I run it though mufflers and resonators so I get a lot of compliments on how quiet it is for an 11 second car. With a lighter f-body it would be even more forgiving.
No it would not make sense to ride in LS cars to get an idea what would be good on an LT1. Just another example of how not ready you are to make any decisions.
I run http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTx200ccCompHead.php with their ported intake and a cam with 228degrees intake duration.
Edge 3800 stall lockup converter, 4.10s 28x10.50 ET Drags.
The converter and tire choice are all about the 60ft. I could gain some MPH with a radial tire and say a Yank converter. Best passes are through full exhaust to the bumper.
There are a handful more b-bodies going faster than my car with the same heads.
Someone above said you need $4-5K to think about diving into the engine like this and IMO that is understated. Spend $5-600 on a fuel pump/wiring/injectors, probably $600 minimum on headers and exhaust, $2300+ on tranny and converter(careful LOTS of bad tranny vendors), say $300+ on suspension bits, $500+ on gear swap. You are over $4k already and haven't touched the engine. A heads/cam swap can easily cost $3k if you use good parts and actually include all the gaskets/fluids/supplies.
I run http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTx200ccCompHead.php with their ported intake and a cam with 228degrees intake duration.
Edge 3800 stall lockup converter, 4.10s 28x10.50 ET Drags.
The converter and tire choice are all about the 60ft. I could gain some MPH with a radial tire and say a Yank converter. Best passes are through full exhaust to the bumper.
There are a handful more b-bodies going faster than my car with the same heads.
Someone above said you need $4-5K to think about diving into the engine like this and IMO that is understated. Spend $5-600 on a fuel pump/wiring/injectors, probably $600 minimum on headers and exhaust, $2300+ on tranny and converter(careful LOTS of bad tranny vendors), say $300+ on suspension bits, $500+ on gear swap. You are over $4k already and haven't touched the engine. A heads/cam swap can easily cost $3k if you use good parts and actually include all the gaskets/fluids/supplies.
People do it but it is a bad idea.
2.00 is as large as can be properly cut into the stock seat, and the heads I linked above have been in the 9s NA on pumpgas.
The prices I quoted above were based on you doing all the on car labor except the gears.
2.00 is as large as can be properly cut into the stock seat, and the heads I linked above have been in the 9s NA on pumpgas.
The prices I quoted above were based on you doing all the on car labor except the gears.