SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Just checking. Figured if you weren't going to acknowledge what I posted then I'd stop wasting my time.
Congrats on figuring it out. Still use a relay to trigger the w/p, and yes a battery sitting for 8 months w/out being charged will definitely be weak.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

More good news; my motor is not "partially seized" lol... charging the battery all the way fixed my starting issue....I put the charger on it yesterday and it said it was 50% charged So I left it on overnight and it started right up like stock So now I'm only down to the high oil pressure (if it is a real problem) issue and leaky passenger side header. Oh yea, I noticed the "low oil" light is on but there is plenty of oil in it....where is that sensor located? I wonder if there was a provision in the the aftermarket oil pan for it? Is that a normal issue for a Moroso 7qt pan?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I've never heard of anyone having a "partially seized" engine. It either is or isn't.
When a battery dies it is never the same again. Even if you charge it, it may last awhile, but its life span is dramatically shortened.
As far as oil is concerned, you can always take the oil cap off and look while the engine is running. If the pressure is indeed that high then you will see a river of oil making its way to the rear drain hole. Best way to confirm you have good pressure it to use an analogue gauge. Shoebox has a pic of where to tap in.
Oil sensor is on the drivers side of the pan. Not sure about the Moroso, but if has a wide sump then there probably isn't enough clearance between the sensor and header for the plug to fit, at least that is the case with the Canton. You can jump the plug to turn the light off. Just be vigilant about checking your oil, which is another something to look out for- Not sure about the Moroso, but the oil level on a Canton is indeed lower than a stock pan so the dipstick will not read accurately.

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

The sensor is in the drivers side of the stock oil Pan. I have no idea about a moroso pan.

Post some vids and pics man.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Here's a crude pic I took with my phone last night...I'll try to get some better ones this weekend. Appearance mods include: Plum Crazy (2010) paint job, 3" cowl hood, black 17" ZR1 deep-dish wheels with polished lip (275mm front 315mm rear tires) Eibach pro kit springs.

I took it for it's first real shakedown run last night to break in the motor and have a little fun for the first time with the new 383...holly this thing is an animal! It has no problem spinning those 315's through 4th gear and that was short shifting at 5500! There's so much more torque and it revs so much faster than before; that and with the 4.10 gears and 6 sp I can barely shift fast enough to keep up with the revs when I get on it Now it's got the performance to match it's looks

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Glad you got the bugs worked out! Looks great too!

Dyno any time soon?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I plan to get it dyno tuned in the next month or two; I need to get it inspected now because the plate is dead, replace the header gasket, and I want to install the Racetronics fuel pump/hotwire kit I bought before it goes on the dyno....that's the last of my mods on left on this build. Hopefully it will hit 420+ rwhp.

Oh yea, I got it up to operating temp (would not get hotter than 175) while driving, but the oil pressure gauge was still pegged at over 80 psi I'll get the guy who installed the motor to check it out when I take it to be inspected.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if you responded, but does the gauge stay pegged regardless if the engine is on or not?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

No, it goes back to 0 when I shut it off....it's like a switch, either off 0 psi or 80+ psi when the motor is running.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Grab a mechanical gauge?

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity would the high volume pump have anything to do with it? And, is the sensor in the back of the block new?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what effect the high volume pump has on oil pressure...maybe somebody else that has one can chime in. The sensor is the stock one...never been replaced.

I already have a double gauge pod with an additional coolant temp gauge (stock one was only working 50% of the time) and an oil pressure gauge (ironically, last cam only motor had opposite issue: low oil pressure....less than 10 psi at idle so we added the additional gauge for insurance since the stock gauge readings were questionable) but it has not been hooked up to the motor yet...I assume this aftermarket oil pressure gauge uses it's own sensor; will have to follow up on that and get it hooked up. Probably put a mechanical gauge on it to just to confirm what is happening with the oil pressure. I really don't care if my stock oil pressure gauge does not work as long as I have one working oil pressure gauge bottom line. Hopefully can get these odds and ends tied up this weekend.

Alex94TAGT

No. As previously mentioned, high volume != high pressure. Regardless of whether it's a high volume or standard volume pump, it's the pressure release spring that dictates maximum oil pressure. (I replaced mine with a stiffer spring for higher pressure in a standard volume pump).

I doubt he is physically getting 80psi at warm idle. It just sounds like a problem with the oil pressure sending unit and/or related wiring, as already mentioned.

However, there is a steel "ball" plug that needs to go into an oil galley underneath the #5 main cap. Without it in place, the oil path would not include the oil filter. If that plug were removed and didn't get replaced, it could conceivably cause the oil pressure to spike. Considering this is a newly-assembled 383ci, that's always a possibility. But again, the pressure release spring would negate it.

I cut out the oil level sensor bung and welded it to the front side of the sump. Pretty dumb/easy fix -- don't know why Canton doesn't do it that way from the factory.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

That was my next question. What if you were to put a dye in the oil filter? If the dye ends up in the pan would that rule that out?

Alex94TAGT

Sorry -- just edited my last post. I don't think it's a likely scenario, because the pressure release spring should still control maximum pressure. (I believe stock pressure release springs that come with the Melling pumps are rated for 60psi, unless his was swapped out.)

Bottom line, he just needs to do some simple testing. We're probably just making mountains out of molehills until the condition is verified.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If it's pegged with the key pn the circuit to the sending unit is open (broken or disconnected), period.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Good to know...will definitely check this out over the weekend.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Weird. My gauge stayed pegged regardless if the key was in the ignition or the engine was running. Didn't reset until the key was turned on and connectivity was established.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking about trying a different header gasket since I've had issues with both a standard felpro (1406 I believe) and copper gaskets on the old engine....how are these Percys "Dead soft" header gaskets? Do they work as advertised? I will put a straight edge on the header flange to see if it is warped, but I want to get some good gaskets so I don't ever have to deal with leaky headers again Anybody tried these?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Percy%26%23039...66031/10002/-1

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I would not get any gasket until you've found out whether or not the flange is warped. The only way a metal gasket is to be used is if you know the surfaces are extremely close to being true. The only reason why a 1406, or any paper/steal core gasket for that matter, would blow out is if it was not compressed/sealed properly.