New 383...working the bugs out
Just checking. Figured if you weren't going to acknowledge what I posted then I'd stop wasting my time.
Congrats on figuring it out. Still use a relay to trigger the w/p, and yes a battery sitting for 8 months w/out being charged will definitely be weak.
Congrats on figuring it out. Still use a relay to trigger the w/p, and yes a battery sitting for 8 months w/out being charged will definitely be weak.
**New update*** More good news; my motor is not "partially seized" lol... charging the battery all the way fixed my starting issue....I put the charger on it yesterday and it said it was 50% charged 
So I left it on overnight and it started right up like stock 
So now I'm only down to the high oil pressure (if it is a real problem) issue and leaky passenger side header. Oh yea, I noticed the "low oil" light is on but there is plenty of oil in it....where is that sensor located? I wonder if there was a provision in the the aftermarket oil pan for it? Is that a normal issue for a Moroso 7qt pan? 
So I left it on overnight and it started right up like stock So now I'm only down to the high oil pressure (if it is a real problem) issue and leaky passenger side header. Oh yea, I noticed the "low oil" light is on but there is plenty of oil in it....where is that sensor located? I wonder if there was a provision in the the aftermarket oil pan for it? Is that a normal issue for a Moroso 7qt pan? More good news; my motor is not "partially seized" lol... charging the battery all the way fixed my starting issue....I put the charger on it yesterday and it said it was 50% charged So I left it on overnight and it started right up like stock So now I'm only down to the high oil pressure (if it is a real problem) issue and leaky passenger side header. Oh yea, I noticed the "low oil" light is on but there is plenty of oil in it....where is that sensor located? I wonder if there was a provision in the the aftermarket oil pan for it? Is that a normal issue for a Moroso 7qt pan?
So I left it on overnight and it started right up like stock So now I'm only down to the high oil pressure (if it is a real problem) issue and leaky passenger side header. Oh yea, I noticed the "low oil" light is on but there is plenty of oil in it....where is that sensor located? I wonder if there was a provision in the the aftermarket oil pan for it? Is that a normal issue for a Moroso 7qt pan? When a battery dies it is never the same again. Even if you charge it, it may last awhile, but its life span is dramatically shortened.
As far as oil is concerned, you can always take the oil cap off and look while the engine is running. If the pressure is indeed that high then you will see a river of oil making its way to the rear drain hole. Best way to confirm you have good pressure it to use an analogue gauge. Shoebox has a pic of where to tap in.
Oil sensor is on the drivers side of the pan. Not sure about the Moroso, but if has a wide sump then there probably isn't enough clearance between the sensor and header for the plug to fit, at least that is the case with the Canton. You can jump the plug to turn the light off. Just be vigilant about checking your oil, which is another something to look out for- Not sure about the Moroso, but the oil level on a Canton is indeed lower than a stock pan so the dipstick will not read accurately.
Here's a crude pic I took with my phone last night...I'll try to get some better ones this weekend. Appearance mods include: Plum Crazy (2010) paint job, 3" cowl hood, black 17" ZR1 deep-dish wheels with polished lip (275mm front 315mm rear tires) Eibach pro kit springs.
I took it for it's first real shakedown run last night to break in the motor and have a little fun for the first time with the new 383...holly
this thing is an animal! 
It has no problem spinning those 315's through 4th gear and that was short shifting at 5500! 
There's so much more torque and it revs so much faster than before; that and with the 4.10 gears and 6 sp I can barely shift fast enough to keep up with the revs when I get on it 
Now it's got the performance to match it's looks
I took it for it's first real shakedown run last night to break in the motor and have a little fun for the first time with the new 383...holly
this thing is an animal! It has no problem spinning those 315's through 4th gear and that was short shifting at 5500! There's so much more torque and it revs so much faster than before; that and with the 4.10 gears and 6 sp I can barely shift fast enough to keep up with the revs when I get on it Now it's got the performance to match it's looks Last edited by ahritchie; Feb 7, 2012 at 09:20 AM.
Oh yea, I got it up to operating temp (would not get hotter than 175) while driving, but the oil pressure gauge was still pegged at over 80 psi
I'll get the guy who installed the motor to check it out when I take it to be inspected. LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
I already have a double gauge pod with an additional coolant temp gauge (stock one was only working 50% of the time) and an oil pressure gauge (ironically, last cam only motor had opposite issue: low oil pressure....less than 10 psi at idle so we added the additional gauge for insurance since the stock gauge readings were questionable) but it has not been hooked up to the motor yet...I assume this aftermarket oil pressure gauge uses it's own sensor; will have to follow up on that and get it hooked up. Probably put a mechanical gauge on it to just to confirm what is happening with the oil pressure. I really don't care if my stock oil pressure gauge does not work as long as I have one working oil pressure gauge bottom line. Hopefully can get these odds and ends tied up this weekend.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
I doubt he is physically getting 80psi at warm idle. It just sounds like a problem with the oil pressure sending unit and/or related wiring, as already mentioned.
However, there is a steel "ball" plug that needs to go into an oil galley underneath the #5 main cap. Without it in place, the oil path would not include the oil filter. If that plug were removed and didn't get replaced, it could conceivably cause the oil pressure to spike. Considering this is a newly-assembled 383ci, that's always a possibility. But again, the pressure release spring would negate it.
I cut out the oil level sensor bung and welded it to the front side of the sump. Pretty dumb/easy fix -- don't know why Canton doesn't do it that way from the factory.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Feb 7, 2012 at 01:05 PM.
***However, there is a steel "ball" plug that needs to go into an oil galley underneath the #5 main cap. Without it in place, the oil path would not include the oil filter. If that plug were removed and didn't get replaced, it could conceivably cause the oil pressure to spike. Considering this is a newly-assembled 383ci, that's always a possibility. Hopefully not the case.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Bottom line, he just needs to do some simple testing. We're probably just making mountains out of molehills until the condition is verified.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Feb 7, 2012 at 02:21 PM.
Weird. My gauge stayed pegged regardless if the key was in the ignition or the engine was running. Didn't reset until the key was turned on and connectivity was established.
I'm thinking about trying a different header gasket since I've had issues with both a standard felpro (1406 I believe) and copper gaskets on the old engine....how are these Percys "Dead soft" header gaskets? Do they work as advertised? I will put a straight edge on the header flange to see if it is warped, but I want to get some good gaskets so I don't ever have to deal with leaky headers again 
Anybody tried these?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Percy%26%23039...66031/10002/-1
Anybody tried these?http://www.jegs.com/i/Percy%26%23039...66031/10002/-1
Last edited by ahritchie; Feb 9, 2012 at 10:20 AM.
I would not get any gasket until you've found out whether or not the flange is warped. The only way a metal gasket is to be used is if you know the surfaces are extremely close to being true. The only reason why a 1406, or any paper/steal core gasket for that matter, would blow out is if it was not compressed/sealed properly.