Lt1 cam choice for DD
Hey everyone, I'm new here as this is my first LT1. I just picked up my 94 camaro Saturday, decided to get rid of my gutless 96 mustang gt. Never a fan of the 4.6. Anyways it already has Longtube headers, Off road Y, 3 inch exhaust, slp cold air. So I was looking at camming the car this summer. Its my daily, so nothing too radical, looking at the cc305 or cc503. I want enough power to pull on my brothers c5 (around mid 12s, 325-350rwhp), but still have stockish idle and decent mpg. I was leaning towards the cc305 for the idle quality but heard alot of people are disapointed with it. Which would be your reccomendation for a daily driver and why.
And I pitty the fool who actually would sacrifice a few hp for some spring life and reliability in a street car. It gives you a good idea to compare lobes, thats all.
A properly setup valve train will control XFI lobes and more aggressive with no issue. Like I said a lot of STREET lobes are more aggressive than the XFI but are still easily managed.
Now why dont you STFU and crawl back in your hole. Lay there and wait til someone else says something you can disagree with. It is ******* worthless when all someone EVER does is wait to pipe up about how wrong someone else is.
Why dont you try adding something useful to the discussion every now and then....?
A properly setup valve train will control XFI lobes and more aggressive with no issue. Like I said a lot of STREET lobes are more aggressive than the XFI but are still easily managed.
Now why dont you STFU and crawl back in your hole. Lay there and wait til someone else says something you can disagree with. It is ******* worthless when all someone EVER does is wait to pipe up about how wrong someone else is.
Why dont you try adding something useful to the discussion every now and then....?
It's going to take more than 350rwhp to pull on a 350rwhp c5. They are lighter and more aerodynamic.
It's a good thing .006-.050 lobe lift is the only part of the lobe that matters for aggressiveness And I pitty the fool who actually would sacrifice a few hp for some spring life and reliability in a street car.
It's a good thing .006-.050 lobe lift is the only part of the lobe that matters for aggressiveness
And I pitty the fool who actually would sacrifice a few hp for some spring life and reliability in a street car. The xfi 466 is looking pretty good the more I research it. As long as I get a good valvetrain, and a good tune I should be set, correct? Also sidenote are you running stock injectors or 30's with that size cam?
Sounds the OP wants to find something used and keep it on the cheap. CC503s are pretty hard to find used but thats something i would keep my eyes open for. You can piece together a LT4 Hotcam kit much cheaper then the CC503. Its all up to what you want and both will give you a noticeable bump over stock but just beware they are older technology and there are better options out there but you will have to buy new and fork out alot more cash.
I had the Lunati Voodoo 60121 in my old cam only setup....very nice DD cam. It's similar to the Hot cam and cc503; except it's a newer design and has a bit more lift:
Part Number: 60121
Hydraulic roller, fair idle. Strong power increase in mildly modified engines with excellent throttle response. Will work with stock converter in 383 and up size engines or 2200 RPM stall speed converter in 305-350 cubic inch engines. Likes 3.23-3.73 rear gears. Also the largest cam for inboard/outboard marine applications.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/278
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 221/229
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .515/.530
LSA/ICL: 112/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1800-5800
Part Number: 60121
Hydraulic roller, fair idle. Strong power increase in mildly modified engines with excellent throttle response. Will work with stock converter in 383 and up size engines or 2200 RPM stall speed converter in 305-350 cubic inch engines. Likes 3.23-3.73 rear gears. Also the largest cam for inboard/outboard marine applications.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/278
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 221/229
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .515/.530
LSA/ICL: 112/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1800-5800
If buying new i love my LE1 Billet 223/230 .565/.565 112lsa. Great power band and great driveability. LE made this to compete with the CC503 and has similar characteristics but newer design and more lift.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
I ran the XFI 280 for a couple years with the 918 springs. Took it up to 6800 RPM's, but when I got about 10k miles on the springs I started to get valve float. By the end of last year I had to turn my shift points down to 6100 RPM's to stop the float. Cam was great, awesome sound, great torque, and I ran it into mid 11's with home ported heads.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 18
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Those might sound like stupid questions, but I don't know much about cams. I would like to know more because I might be interested in a mild cam some day.
I shouldn't be spinning more than 6300 rpm, definetly not 6800 rpm. With the correct set of springs, will the springs last awhile or will I need to change them out to prevent valve float often? I drive around 15000 miles a year, so its going to see a lot of use
I'm daily driving with a 503, it's a lot of fun, trapped 113.5mph last time I was at the track, that was before I got retuned (still had my hotcam tune in, I picked up 15rwhp with the retune) and I was shifting at only 6200 due to having the wrong thing selected in EFI Live.
On the other hand I have a hotcam for sale, $80 shipped OBO. It has one flaw, but its on the back of the ramp, didn't damage the lifter at all, not even sure how it got there or why.
I also enjoyed my hotcam, trapped 110mph with it.
On the other hand I have a hotcam for sale, $80 shipped OBO.
It has one flaw, but its on the back of the ramp, didn't damage the lifter at all, not even sure how it got there or why.I also enjoyed my hotcam, trapped 110mph with it.
It's not accurate to call a cam "hard on parts" without any reference to rpm range and valvetrain setup. If you float the valves, the harmonics kill the spring rate, and as a result float even sooner and eventually break from the harmonics. You could either run less duration (less needed rpm), lighten and stiffen the valvetrain for more high rpm stability, or throw more pressure at it and add further more flex and harmonics into the valvetrain.
I think it's odd that some can run an XFI grind to 7000 rpm with older 918 springs and aftermarket heads with larger and heavier valves, and some cant rev past 6300 without loss of control of stock size valves. I'd be willing to bet that the more successful guys actually took the time to setup their valvetrain correctly, rather than just slapping it all together.
I think it's odd that some can run an XFI grind to 7000 rpm with older 918 springs and aftermarket heads with larger and heavier valves, and some cant rev past 6300 without loss of control of stock size valves. I'd be willing to bet that the more successful guys actually took the time to setup their valvetrain correctly, rather than just slapping it all together.
I think it's odd that some can run an XFI grind to 7000 rpm with older 918 springs and aftermarket heads with larger and heavier valves, and some cant rev past 6300 without loss of control of stock size valves. I'd be willing to bet that the more successful guys actually took the time to setup their valvetrain correctly, rather than just slapping it all together.
I think using crappy stock style pushrods is an issue as well - most have not seen spintrons of a valvetrain at even 6,000 rpms. Even with modest spring pressures the stock style PRs look like spaghetti and put all sorts of nasty harmonics in the valvetrain.
$50 summit special PRs aren't going to cut it.
Take the time to get the right springs, with the right size and length pushrods, and properly installed rockers, and you will have a much more rewarding combo then someone running the same cam without doing their homework and slapping everything together.