LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Lt1 cam choice for DD

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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:09 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by gregrob
It gives you a good idea to compare lobes, thats all.

A properly setup valve train will control XFI lobes and more aggressive with no issue. Like I said a lot of STREET lobes are more aggressive than the XFI but are still easily managed.

Now why dont you STFU and crawl back in your hole. Lay there and wait til someone else says something you can disagree with. It is ******* worthless when all someone EVER does is wait to pipe up about how wrong someone else is.

Why dont you try adding something useful to the discussion every now and then....?
I wish I could make a post this informative. So you categorize lobe aggressiveness by .006-.050 lobe lift alone and not an actual cam dr? It must be nice to be an internet expert that knows all.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #42  
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Which is all you are... and a ******* troll on top of that.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:33 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 1baddgarage
Hey everyone, I'm new here as this is my first LT1. I just picked up my 94 camaro Saturday, decided to get rid of my gutless 96 mustang gt. Never a fan of the 4.6. Anyways it already has Longtube headers, Off road Y, 3 inch exhaust, slp cold air. So I was looking at camming the car this summer. Its my daily, so nothing too radical, looking at the cc305 or cc503. I want enough power to pull on my brothers c5 (around mid 12s, 325-350rwhp), but still have stockish idle and decent mpg. I was leaning towards the cc305 for the idle quality but heard alot of people are disapointed with it. Which would be your reccomendation for a daily driver and why.

Which is why you should buy my brand new CompCam 306 cam for only $225on the parts section....hehehe...price to sell to! Should be enough to pull your brothers C5 and get you near the 370 mark, with the right components!! Got the new matching valve springs and injectors to compliment your LT-1 and I can give you a package deal for all parts. Let me know and good luck.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:46 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 95mysticta
If buying new i love my LE1 Billet 223/230 .565/.565 112lsa. Great power band and great driveability. LE made this to compete with the CC503 and has similar characteristics but newer design and more lift.
Whats the rpm range on the LE1 223/230?? How would the higher lift affect performance and driveability, if the duration is very similar?

Ive always had the impression that higher lift will usually provide a higher duration, meaning more power through the powerband. But in this case, the duration is very similar.

BTW, CC503= 224/230, .503/.510 112lsa (for comparison)
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #45  
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Powerband from this cam is 1700-6100rpm.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 1baddgarage
The xfi 466 is looking pretty good the more I research it. As long as I get a good valvetrain, and a good tune I should be set, correct? Also sidenote are you running stock injectors or 30's with that size cam?
I've got the xfi 466 in my automatic 355ci Z28. It's a pretty decent low to mid range power cam. It does not have an overly choppy idle but if you know what you are listening for you could hear it. With stock ported heads (180cc In/65cc Ex), Edelbrock 52mm tb, midlength Pacesetters, 30# injectors and mail order tune it made 336 hp and 325lbs of tq. It is still great to drive and I drive 10-15 miles a day, everyday. I put $35-40 bucks of premium in every two weeks(don't know milage b/c tripodometer is broke). I think for an off the shelf cam it is pretty good but since you have an M6 I think I'd go just slightly larger...but that's just my 2 cents. Hope that answers the original question for you.

Last edited by 1SWT95Z; Feb 9, 2012 at 11:08 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Uwilllosetomy93lt1
Which is why you should buy my brand new CompCam 306 cam for only $225on the parts section....hehehe...price to sell to! Should be enough to pull your brothers C5 and get you near the 370 mark, with the right components!! Got the new matching valve springs and injectors to compliment your LT-1 and I can give you a package deal for all parts. Let me know and good luck.
Although I'd love the sound and performance I'd get out of the cc306, it's a little more than I need for my DD. Thanks for the offer though
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 05:37 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 1SWT95Z
I've got the xfi 466 in my automatic 355ci Z28. It's a pretty decent low to mid range power cam. It does not have an overly choppy idle but if you know what you are listening for you could hear it. With stock ported heads (180cc In/65cc Ex), Edelbrock 52mm tb, midlength Pacesetters, 30# injectors and mail order tune it made 336 hp and 325lbs of tq. It is still great to drive and I drive 10-15 miles a day, everyday. I put $35-40 bucks of premium in every two weeks(don't know milage b/c tripodometer is broke). I think for an off the shelf cam it is pretty good but since you have an M6 I think I'd go just slightly larger...but that's just my 2 cents. Hope that answers the original question for you.
The xfi 466 sounds alot like what i'm looking for, Pretty tame idle, decent power. I dont want it to sound too much over stock really, my 84 z28 already has a decent sized solid roller and my wife would kill me if I get something too radical(for her tastes lol) for my dd
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #49  
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Heres a question i have, (not to steal your thread sorry) i just had a company local grind me a 503 cam (93 bucks) but the cam card was slightly different; 226/230 at 111 lsa, how will this affect idle and powerband? Or should i have it reground? Thanks
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FAD2BLK93
Heres a question i have, (not to steal your thread sorry) i just had a company local grind me a 503 cam (93 bucks) but the cam card was slightly different; 226/230 at 111 lsa, how will this affect idle and powerband? Or should i have it reground? Thanks
Honestly, you'll never see the difference. In fact, that lsa is in the right direction IMO. Theoretically it should have a rougher idle, but the difference is so subtle, you won't be able to tell.
Does the cam card tell you what the ICL is? If they attempted to match the 503, it will probably fall about 108, which is ok. If it were mine, I'd degree it and adjust it to a 104-106 ICL.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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The ICL is 106.0 and ecl is 116.4 if that matters. With the 111 lsa i thought it might be a little rougher but the 226 duration instead of 224 i wasn't sure if it was going to move the powerband any, or shift points ect. I plan to shift at 6200.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #52  
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This is just my 2 cents, for what ever it's worth. On a M6 car for a daily driver, cam surge is a issue for me at least. I went with a comp 502 instead of a 503 because of the propensity of a 503 to surge, even with a good tune. The 502 also exhibits a little bit of surge, most noticeably when trying to come up the drive way in 1st gear, it's frustrating and taking me a bit to get used to. If you have ever had to live with a car that surges, especially a manual car it's not something you take a lady out to dinner in. I have a friend with a big block Chevelle and a 4 speed with a cam that surges so bad it's almost impossible to roll through a parking lot.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Can anyone tell me what causes a motor to surge? Shouldn't the IAC compensate for this? Or is the surge to rapid for this to happen?
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Surge is a extension of lope at idle transmitted through the drive line, which has to do with the cam profile, lobe separation/duration. Your IAC will not compensate forthis. The rumble, or lope/chop what ever you wish to call it at idle. The surge only exhibits it's self at a rolling idle, when the clutch is out/engaged and little or no throttle is applied. Such as a drive through line, rolling through stop light traffic, or in my case the up hill 1/8 mile drive I have that requires 1st gear slow speed. The lope is transmitted through the drive line which make the car lurch or jerk in sequence with the lope of the cam. Makes the whole car buck, for lack of a better word. In most cases, my combo is manageable, but the way my drive is it's rather difficult to get it to the garage. It's a sacrifice I can live with. Cam opinions are like butt hole's, everyone has one. Your a idiot if you don't do xyz. Do reasearch, the old saying is a too small of a cam will still make you happy. Too large of a cam will make you miserable.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks for the insight, i just learned something new. This surge is coming from a 502 so the 503 would be worse? I have an A4 and i am getting all the parts to do a 503 now. The tuner can help with surge without sacrificing power right? I have brian at pcmforless doing my tunes and sofar he has been great!
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Surge generally does not rear it's ugly head on A4 car's. Automatic transmissions have a torque converter which is a fluid dampener, it absorbers the pulses and transmits the smooth power to the rest of the drive line. Manual cars is where it really shows it's self. A clutch directly couples the engine to the rest of the drive line, what the engine does, the rest of the drive line does. Automatic torque converters have to spin up and push fluid in order to start the process of "coupling" to transmit power to the rest of the drive line. You will enjoy the 503 in a automatic car, but you will probably want a mild stall converter if you plan on seeing any street/track racing. PCM for less (Brian) did my tune as well, I am very satisfied with there tuning and customer service.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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I cant afford a stahl right now so i plan on using a zex wet 45 55 75 kit i bought off an import guy i worked with for 200 bucks. It has been sitting on the shelf for two plus years. I want to use a 50 shot to get off the line then let the cam take over, probably work i hope?
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodinator1234
This is just my 2 cents, for what ever it's worth. On a M6 car for a daily driver, cam surge is a issue for me at least. I went with a comp 502 instead of a 503 because of the propensity of a 503 to surge, even with a good tune. The 502 also exhibits a little bit of surge, most noticeably when trying to come up the drive way in 1st gear, it's frustrating and taking me a bit to get used to. If you have ever had to live with a car that surges, especially a manual car it's not something you take a lady out to dinner in. I have a friend with a big block Chevelle and a 4 speed with a cam that surges so bad it's almost impossible to roll through a parking lot.
I don't mean to come in and give a negative response, but its all in driving adaptation, can you just let the clutch out at idle and expect to roll comfortably in a parking lot like stock? The answer is no, can you make an M6 car creep thru at basically idle speeds? Yes, its called slipping the clutch, Yes its a pain, you have to give it throttle, slip the clutch and constantly disengage the clutch and let it roll. Now if your car is surging at startup and idle, then yes its in the tune.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodinator1234
This is just my 2 cents, for what ever it's worth. On a M6 car for a daily driver, cam surge is a issue for me at least. I went with a comp 502 instead of a 503 because of the propensity of a 503 to surge, even with a good tune. The 502 also exhibits a little bit of surge, most noticeably when trying to come up the drive way in 1st gear, it's frustrating and taking me a bit to get used to. If you have ever had to live with a car that surges, especially a manual car it's not something you take a lady out to dinner in. I have a friend with a big block Chevelle and a 4 speed with a cam that surges so bad it's almost impossible to roll through a parking lot.
Do you still have the stock 3.42's? I had some cam surge with my lunati voodoo 60121 in my 6sp car and it was a bitch to drive at slow speeds without slipping the clutch which was annoying; I put in 4.10's and it improved the driveability at low speeds quite a bit (on the highway in 6th too) not to mention it feels so much quicker. Just thought I would mention there are ways around the cam surge. I now have the next step up cam, the voodoo 60122 in a 383 and it's not any worse a DD than the smaller cam on a stock 350....4.10's are awesome with the 6spd!
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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From my experience, a sure fire way to reduce nearly all of M6 cam surge is to run an open loop tune and allow the PCM to provide more fuel in the surge areas. My tuner created an open loop tune but I still prefer to run a closed loop tune as to allow the engine to adapt to changing conditions and to maximize MPGs. When I ran this tune for a short time, it was surge free.

Simply put IMO, the engine wants more fuel in these areas where surge occurs and it is not possible to do this in a closed loop tune because the PCM will force an A/F ratio of 14.7.

Using an optimum tune, using 4.10s for a M6 application and adjusting your driving style just a bit will allow you to coexist with the surge that you get from these bigger cams. I have not run a 503 cam but referencing it against the specs of cams I have run, I would not expect the 503 to surge much at all. From what I have learned, overlap plays a large role in how much a cam will surge. Lastly like has already been said, A4 applications tend to absorb any surge that might be present.

Last edited by wrd1972; Feb 10, 2012 at 09:43 AM.
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