Lt1 cam choice for DD
#61
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My 503 seems to surge more in the morning when the car is cold. Rest of the day it can leave from a stop nice and smooth, if I don't engage the clutch too quickly.
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.
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#62
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My 503 seems to surge more in the morning when the car is cold. Rest of the day it can leave from a stop nice and smooth, if I don't engage the clutch too quickly.
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
#63
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Street Twin. When I had a single disc six puck, you really had to concentrate with that thing to take off smooth. And forget trying to back up an incline!
So glad I put that street twin in, now I can actually back up driveways without looking like the car is having a seizure.
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#64
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My 503 seems to surge more in the morning when the car is cold. Rest of the day it can leave from a stop nice and smooth, if I don't engage the clutch too quickly.
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
So I guess my car is *** backwards, when in closed loop its quite the jolt that first time I try to get rolling.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
Street Twin. When I had a single disc six puck, you really had to concentrate with that thing to take off smooth. And forget trying to back up an incline!
So glad I put that street twin in, now I can actually back up driveways without looking like the car is having a seizure.
![Icon Lol](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_lol.gif)
I dont think it has anything to do with the surge or any other negative characteristic of the aftermarket cam. If you had a OEM spec, single dual faced organic disk along with your 503 cam, it would likely "clutch" like and drive like stock.
I have a Competition Clutch Stage 2 which has six cerametallic pucks on one side and organic on the other and it is fast off the clutch pedal but not near as fast as my old Spec 3+ was. Also whether or not there are marcel springs in the disk, or in your case disks, greatly affects how fast the clutch pedal works. IIRC, the ST does not have marcel springs where mine and all OEM disks, will.
Adjusting driving style is the solution here. I typically just raise the RPM a bit harder to pull out from a stationary position and its smooth as silk.
#65
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I drive my 383Lt1/T56 everyday and run a lunati 211/219(60120),...I love it.
Huge torque right from idle.
The truth of it for me is that I find myself idling around a lot,...just maintaining 30 mph in town at just above idle,...with the six speed and this cam I never get bucking/surging.
The car hauls too,...with 3.73's it's all I can do to keep the car hooked up in the first 2.5 gears.
I just did a 5 hour highway trip that I've done many times over a ten year period ,hundreds of times in this car when it was factory stock. I started with a full tank of gas and I filled it up when I got home at the same station, like I always did, and I was just shocked by how good the mileage was,...and I was really getting into it whenever possible.
Impressed.
Huge torque right from idle.
The truth of it for me is that I find myself idling around a lot,...just maintaining 30 mph in town at just above idle,...with the six speed and this cam I never get bucking/surging.
The car hauls too,...with 3.73's it's all I can do to keep the car hooked up in the first 2.5 gears.
I just did a 5 hour highway trip that I've done many times over a ten year period ,hundreds of times in this car when it was factory stock. I started with a full tank of gas and I filled it up when I got home at the same station, like I always did, and I was just shocked by how good the mileage was,...and I was really getting into it whenever possible.
Impressed.
Last edited by TIIMuch; 02-13-2012 at 06:24 PM.
#67
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It had a CC305 for a while,...it had more power for the 1% of the driving I did at +5,000rpm, for me, in the city, DD'ing it, this cam is better,...just sharing my expereince.
#68
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#72
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Lol...and I thought my 60122 (231/239) in my new motor was smallish for a 383. I'd like to hear what one of these baby cammed sleeper
383's can do on a dyno or on the track.... I guess it just depends on where you want the power and how you drive it since a "streetable" cam as defined by one person is un-driveable pain in the *** by another.
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#75
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Yes I still have stock rear 3.42's and clutch is unknown. Stock or stock replacement I would assume. Yes I slip the clutch a bunch. Like I said earlier, for me the surge is only really bad trying to come up my drive way. It's a up hill, slow drive and lots of clutch slip. But that's a small price to pay for the performance of the car, I really enjoy this combo. I want to do something with the rear gear, I just don't know what yet.
#77
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It's not accurate to call a cam "hard on parts" without any reference to rpm range and valvetrain setup. If you float the valves, the harmonics kill the spring rate, and as a result float even sooner and eventually break from the harmonics. You could either run less duration (less needed rpm), lighten and stiffen the valvetrain for more high rpm stability, or throw more pressure at it and add further more flex and harmonics into the valvetrain.
I think it's odd that some can run an XFI grind to 7000 rpm with older 918 springs and aftermarket heads with larger and heavier valves, and some cant rev past 6300 without loss of control of stock size valves. I'd be willing to bet that the more successful guys actually took the time to setup their valvetrain correctly, rather than just slapping it all together.
I think it's odd that some can run an XFI grind to 7000 rpm with older 918 springs and aftermarket heads with larger and heavier valves, and some cant rev past 6300 without loss of control of stock size valves. I'd be willing to bet that the more successful guys actually took the time to setup their valvetrain correctly, rather than just slapping it all together.
XFI 468 242/248 .584/.579 on a 114
stock lifters
Trickflow chromoly pushrods
Comp Magnum roller tip rockers 1.6
2.02/1.60 valves
918 beehives, with steel retainers and machined locks.
My friend Paul did a lot of the assembly and didn't like the way the 918's sat in the seat. We couldn't get the install height just right, it was too short. He measured it at coil bind and he said it was too close for comfort. I ordered a set of .050+" taller locks and that was all it took. He showed me his way of adjusting the valves which is zero lash plus about 1/16th of a turn. That was back in 2006 and I have not touched them since. The motor is sitting here now waiting for a new home. It will go to 7k all day long, I typically shifted it at 68-6900.
I'd be willing to bet that most of these valvetrain problems that guys have will be a simple combination of too low of install height on the springs combined with too much preload on the lifters. They probably just slap them on and turn the key. Then toss the blame at Comp when the motor won't rev.
#79
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When I was going to build my 383 I remembered the articles about the Lingefelter 383's with his super ram intakes making huge torque in street cars.
I searched and found this,...notice the 383's with smallish cams and 100 and 110% efficiency,...
http://www.strokerengine.com/DynoTPI.html
In his book on building SBC's,(350/383) in the camshaft chapter he sez anything above 211(350)-219(383) on the intake results in reversion into the intake on a street machine operating mostly at or below 3,000rpm.
I went with what John did.
I searched and found this,...notice the 383's with smallish cams and 100 and 110% efficiency,...
http://www.strokerengine.com/DynoTPI.html
In his book on building SBC's,(350/383) in the camshaft chapter he sez anything above 211(350)-219(383) on the intake results in reversion into the intake on a street machine operating mostly at or below 3,000rpm.
I went with what John did.
#80
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When I was going to build my 383 I remembered the articles about the Lingefelter 383's with his super ram intakes making huge torque in street cars.
I searched and found this,...notice the 383's with smallish cams and 100 and 110% efficiency,...
http://www.strokerengine.com/DynoTPI.html
In his book on building SBC's,(350/383) in the camshaft chapter he sez anything above 211(350)-219(383) on the intake results in reversion into the intake on a street machine operating mostly at or below 3,000rpm.
I went with what John did.
I searched and found this,...notice the 383's with smallish cams and 100 and 110% efficiency,...
http://www.strokerengine.com/DynoTPI.html
In his book on building SBC's,(350/383) in the camshaft chapter he sez anything above 211(350)-219(383) on the intake results in reversion into the intake on a street machine operating mostly at or below 3,000rpm.
I went with what John did.
Lingenfelter had some nasty street cars back in the day. 528 ft-lbs TQ from a 225int cammed 409 LT1 would make for one FUN toy.
Also reminds me how mad I am that Dart bailed on the big cube LTX block idea
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