Build me a 383...
02-14-2012, 03:22 PM
#22
Staging Lane
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I would do a 355. And use the parts you got in hand. Like said the stock crank and rods. Are strong parts. And can hold up to some power with some arp bolts.
I have almost your whole budget in the top end of my 383. If you want more power you need better flowing heads and a cam. The pop up time to time online for good prices. Look for them and grap a set and got from there.
I have almost your whole budget in the top end of my 383. If you want more power you need better flowing heads and a cam. The pop up time to time online for good prices. Look for them and grap a set and got from there.
02-14-2012, 04:38 PM
#23
Man instead of stringin the kid up & skinnin him alive Point him in the right direction lol He can always start with a 383 FORGED shortblock & add the good stuff on the topend as he goes 4340 crank 600 4340 rods & srp pistons 800 machine work for the block 600ish Hell stock heads & a little cam he would be around 400hp 212cfm is a possible 436hp IF he gets too good of heads he just might ****** kill himself
02-14-2012, 05:27 PM
#25
LoL nothins wrong with the LT1 on my engine stand either But Im doin a 396 ltx with 4340 crank & rods , nitrous pistons, custom cam & all the bolt ons & drivetrain AT ONCE Hell my car is pretty much gettin restored Blame that on shitty paint from the previous owner & I wont pimp an ugly car 
Im old enuff to know better but YALL know that ****** speed bug bites more than just 1 or 2 people LoL To the OP buy good forged internals & make your shortblock Bullet Proof Then go from there BUT with a stroker your either gonna need a built & parts upgraded 4l60e or a 4l80e swap
Im old enuff to know better but YALL know that ****** speed bug bites more than just 1 or 2 people LoL To the OP buy good forged internals & make your shortblock Bullet Proof Then go from there BUT with a stroker your either gonna need a built & parts upgraded 4l60e or a 4l80e swap
02-14-2012, 05:55 PM
#26
Back to the top. This is a 16yo kid with a 200k mile car that thought that mileage was a problem and wants some more power. So why should HE go into the engine atall? His budget wont cover setting the car up for more power much less adding power then trying to support it.
He can stay out of the engine(long as it is not damaged) and add a lot of seat of the pants performance improvement with boltons. Some intake tract(not manifold) upgrade, exhaust, then gears and stall(if an automatic) right there he could make the car a LOT more fun to drive, better than it would be with a $2300stroker and all that stuff stock.
I know most guys come here for validation of their ideas, especially if the ideas are bad, that kind of thinking gets us aftermarket parts that cost a lot and are not upgrades like Hypercap, Granatelli, Accel opti and the Edelbrock intakes.
Many of us have made all the common mistakes already and want to help others avoid them. I put a cam in my car with stock stall/exhaust manifolds and gears. It was just a ZZ4 cam so it was mild enough it drove fine but I didn't gain any performance because I did not have any of the stuff to support it, as I gave it those things it woke up in a big way. This kid was heading towards building a vastly weaker than stock engine that would not have improved performance without all the supporting stuff. The really bad thing to do to him would have been to encourage him to spend $3k on this stoker, then have the car not be any faster and then have the shortblock fly apart wasting the $3k a 16yo probably had to put forth a lot of effort to get. That would have hurt his future in this hobby a lot more than hurting his feeling a little now did.
He can stay out of the engine(long as it is not damaged) and add a lot of seat of the pants performance improvement with boltons. Some intake tract(not manifold) upgrade, exhaust, then gears and stall(if an automatic) right there he could make the car a LOT more fun to drive, better than it would be with a $2300stroker and all that stuff stock.
I know most guys come here for validation of their ideas, especially if the ideas are bad, that kind of thinking gets us aftermarket parts that cost a lot and are not upgrades like Hypercap, Granatelli, Accel opti and the Edelbrock intakes.
Many of us have made all the common mistakes already and want to help others avoid them. I put a cam in my car with stock stall/exhaust manifolds and gears. It was just a ZZ4 cam so it was mild enough it drove fine but I didn't gain any performance because I did not have any of the stuff to support it, as I gave it those things it woke up in a big way. This kid was heading towards building a vastly weaker than stock engine that would not have improved performance without all the supporting stuff. The really bad thing to do to him would have been to encourage him to spend $3k on this stoker, then have the car not be any faster and then have the shortblock fly apart wasting the $3k a 16yo probably had to put forth a lot of effort to get. That would have hurt his future in this hobby a lot more than hurting his feeling a little now did.
02-14-2012, 08:28 PM
#27
Back to the top. This is a 16yo kid with a 200k mile car that thought that mileage was a problem and wants some more power. So why should HE go into the engine atall? His budget wont cover setting the car up for more power much less adding power then trying to support it.
He can stay out of the engine(long as it is not damaged) and add a lot of seat of the pants performance improvement with boltons. Some intake tract(not manifold) upgrade, exhaust, then gears and stall(if an automatic) right there he could make the car a LOT more fun to drive, better than it would be with a $2300stroker and all that stuff stock.
I know most guys come here for validation of their ideas, especially if the ideas are bad, that kind of thinking gets us aftermarket parts that cost a lot and are not upgrades like Hypercap, Granatelli, Accel opti and the Edelbrock intakes.
Many of us have made all the common mistakes already and want to help others avoid them. I put a cam in my car with stock stall/exhaust manifolds and gears. It was just a ZZ4 cam so it was mild enough it drove fine but I didn't gain any performance because I did not have any of the stuff to support it, as I gave it those things it woke up in a big way. This kid was heading towards building a vastly weaker than stock engine that would not have improved performance without all the supporting stuff. The really bad thing to do to him would have been to encourage him to spend $3k on this stoker, then have the car not be any faster and then have the shortblock fly apart wasting the $3k a 16yo probably had to put forth a lot of effort to get. That would have hurt his future in this hobby a lot more than hurting his feeling a little now did.
He can stay out of the engine(long as it is not damaged) and add a lot of seat of the pants performance improvement with boltons. Some intake tract(not manifold) upgrade, exhaust, then gears and stall(if an automatic) right there he could make the car a LOT more fun to drive, better than it would be with a $2300stroker and all that stuff stock.
I know most guys come here for validation of their ideas, especially if the ideas are bad, that kind of thinking gets us aftermarket parts that cost a lot and are not upgrades like Hypercap, Granatelli, Accel opti and the Edelbrock intakes.
Many of us have made all the common mistakes already and want to help others avoid them. I put a cam in my car with stock stall/exhaust manifolds and gears. It was just a ZZ4 cam so it was mild enough it drove fine but I didn't gain any performance because I did not have any of the stuff to support it, as I gave it those things it woke up in a big way. This kid was heading towards building a vastly weaker than stock engine that would not have improved performance without all the supporting stuff. The really bad thing to do to him would have been to encourage him to spend $3k on this stoker, then have the car not be any faster and then have the shortblock fly apart wasting the $3k a 16yo probably had to put forth a lot of effort to get. That would have hurt his future in this hobby a lot more than hurting his feeling a little now did.
I tried to be helpful and truthful in my response without flaying him alive.
02-14-2012, 09:39 PM
#29
3k wont even get you a complete long block, the parts alone will eat up all of that 3k. The worst part about any full on build is the nickel and dime items that you inevitable have to buy. Honestly I wouldn't touch the crank. Just rod bolts and better forged pistons will put you miles ahead of many "383" builds.
02-14-2012, 09:42 PM
#30
3k wont even get you a complete long block, the parts alone will eat up all of that 3k. The worst part about any full on build is the nickel and dime items that you inevitable have to buy. Honestly I wouldn't touch the crank. Just rod bolts and better forged pistons will put you miles ahead of many "383" builds.
Pistons/rings - $500-600
ARP Rod Bolt $80?
Stock crank and rods
Balance - $250
Bore/Hone- $250
Bearings, gaskets - $400
Clean both heads and lap valves - $400
Pump/pickup $80
Unless this is the third time in my head that I'm missing something crucial...
02-14-2012, 10:00 PM
#31
Right off the bat you are missing reconditioning the rods, pressing the stock pistons off the rods they might charge extra for. Add that to your list and it is over $2k and we haven't talked gaskets which are 100% crucial. Then since the block is being machined anyway it really makes sense to deck it.
Even if you decided to reuse the heads without work you would still want to do seals and springs IF the guides were still tight. Would be extremely foolish to not at least put a cam in with new pushrods even allowing for reusing things like lifters $3K is going away damn fast, Then, again what about the rest of the car?
Even if you decided to reuse the heads without work you would still want to do seals and springs IF the guides were still tight. Would be extremely foolish to not at least put a cam in with new pushrods even allowing for reusing things like lifters $3K is going away damn fast, Then, again what about the rest of the car?
02-14-2012, 11:05 PM
#32
If you find deals on used parts and reuse a ton of your stuff, yea you can get it done for way less. I had to purchase a lot of things new since I didn't have much time.
What bearings are you using, better not be the King junk(just my opinion). I would leave the heads alone, check them to see if they are true and that they don't leak replace the items that are wore out. You are missing the the big picture on this build thou, you want a good valvetrain and the right camshaft.
Save up to get the heads done this is where you can make some power.
How do you figure that?
Pistons/rings - $500-600 Sure
ARP Rod Bolt $80? Ok
Stock crank and rods Find out what the machine shop charges to inspect/recondition them.
Balance - $250 Sure
Bore/Hone- $250 Sure
Bearings, gaskets - $400 sealants, coolant, oil changes.
Clean both heads and lap valves - $400 might be a bit high on this
Pump/pickup $80 Sure
Unless this is the third time in my head that I'm missing something crucial...
Pistons/rings - $500-600 Sure
ARP Rod Bolt $80? Ok
Stock crank and rods Find out what the machine shop charges to inspect/recondition them.
Balance - $250 Sure
Bore/Hone- $250 Sure
Bearings, gaskets - $400 sealants, coolant, oil changes.
Clean both heads and lap valves - $400 might be a bit high on this
Pump/pickup $80 Sure
Unless this is the third time in my head that I'm missing something crucial...
Save up to get the heads done this is where you can make some power.
02-14-2012, 11:10 PM
#33
Staging Lane
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guys yall have been a tremendous help. alright goof up on me... 383 stroker= bad idea.. and dont feel bad about bein a little harsh on me. i know some kids that nobody ever went harsh on and they've got 6 cylinders... hah. if i'm hearing ya'll right i need to go 355 with good head/cam setup right? if i rebuilt it with some high cr pistons and maybe some arp bolts on the bottom end, got a good head/cam setup from AI or LE and a good tune could i be looking around 400 hp? zraffz had a good plan for it if i remember right. surely the rebuild kit, machine work, heads, cam, a tune and all the misc that i'll need (pushrods valve springs oil ect) wont go over 3k right? idk ya'll tell me. thank you for all the quick responses! btw i already have CAI headers/exhaust 4.56 gears too... thanks!
02-14-2012, 11:38 PM
#35
I defiantly did miss some things and I understand it's not the point now but for the sake of the OP... Shops around here go about $12-15 a rod to recondition. Your cam would cost around $300, lifters can be bought for $130 (LS7) and the rest of the necessary parts can be picked up for $400 or less to finish the top end... I would have to agree on getting the block checked/decked but their are plenty of guys who don't do this. ARP bolts are going to set you back a few hundred more too.
Still cutting it very close I think a descent motor could be built near the budget though. If you went with any head porting or aftermarket castings you'd surely break the budget but a cam/bolt on LT1 can still be very respectable (bolt on LS1 times).
You do have to understand this might go over budget and it wouldn't get much cheaper than this. Labor is not factored into the price and at 16, let's face, chances are good you aren't going to be capable of doing all of it on your own. If you'd really like a good idea of a total price (without labor since it varies from shop to shop a lot more than the machining), I'll figure it out tomorrow.
Then again their is no reason to listen to me. I am sure at least a few of the people who posted in here have far more knowledge and experience than me. I've slapped together some cheap motors but that doesn't make me special.
Still cutting it very close I think a descent motor could be built near the budget though. If you went with any head porting or aftermarket castings you'd surely break the budget but a cam/bolt on LT1 can still be very respectable (bolt on LS1 times).
You do have to understand this might go over budget and it wouldn't get much cheaper than this. Labor is not factored into the price and at 16, let's face, chances are good you aren't going to be capable of doing all of it on your own. If you'd really like a good idea of a total price (without labor since it varies from shop to shop a lot more than the machining), I'll figure it out tomorrow.
Then again their is no reason to listen to me. I am sure at least a few of the people who posted in here have far more knowledge and experience than me. I've slapped together some cheap motors but that doesn't make me special.
02-15-2012, 06:38 AM
#38
guys yall have been a tremendous help. alright goof up on me... 383 stroker= bad idea.. and dont feel bad about bein a little harsh on me. i know some kids that nobody ever went harsh on and they've got 6 cylinders... hah. if i'm hearing ya'll right i need to go 355 with good head/cam setup right? if i rebuilt it with some high cr pistons and maybe some arp bolts on the bottom end, got a good head/cam setup from AI or LE and a good tune could i be looking around 400 hp? zraffz had a good plan for it if i remember right. surely the rebuild kit, machine work, heads, cam, a tune and all the misc that i'll need (pushrods valve springs oil ect) wont go over 3k right? idk ya'll tell me. thank you for all the quick responses! btw i already have CAI headers/exhaust 4.56 gears too... thanks!
$3k won't do it fellas.
