Build me a 383...
I will be the first to say that a 383 on $3000 budget is near impossible to properly build. I only went 383 with my build when I mic'd my crank and found that it was to bad to be ground. I ended up spending just under $5000 dollars for my forged 383. Unfortunately the car is still slow because I have still have a stock stall with that big cam and motor.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
alright guys so realistically, what is the most hp i could get for 3k and how would ya'll do it? and i've got a friend whose dad builds engines for a living and he said he'd help me. any suggestions or anything welcome... even if your just as lost as i am hah
You are posed with two choices: Gamble with the 200k short block and add a heads/cam package, or rebuild the bottom end and do a cam swap.
Pros of option 1 - 400+whp easy using GOOD parts.
Cons of option 1 - Likely a seriously short lifespan of the stock shortblock. Could last another 20k, could last 500 miles...there's just no way to tell.
Pros of option 2 - Far more reliable than option 1, allows for future enhancements without risk of needing a rebuild.
Cons of option 2 - 350-360whp, since you won't have any money left over for any headwork, just a basic cam swap, supplemental parts, and tuning.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
i'm liking option 2 much better just because i'd rather just do it all at once and not take a chance. what would you think about a 355 federal mogul/sealed power summit racing rebuild kit for 600$ with forged pistons? too cheap? if that would work i could have it rebuild for about 1000 when you count in odd and end things which would leave me with 2k or so to actually build it... i was thinking get a LE or AI package and put it all back together and have it tuned. but again i know i've got to be missing some things. that's why i'm asking ya'll first!
i'm liking option 2 much better just because i'd rather just do it all at once and not take a chance. what would you think about a 355 federal mogul/sealed power summit racing rebuild kit for 600$ with forged pistons? too cheap? if that would work i could have it rebuild for about 1000 when you count in odd and end things which would leave me with 2k or so to actually build it... i was thinking get a LE or AI package and put it all back together and have it tuned. but again i know i've got to be missing some things. that's why i'm asking ya'll first!
For bearings and rings, let your engine builder decide on what's best. That way you put the ball in HIS court if anything were to ever happen to the motor. That way your hands are washed from the situation.
Having said that, I would request good Clevite bearings and Total Seal rings. They've treated me well so far and countless other guys on the forum.
Your assumed price of $1000 to rebuild the bottom end will still not get you very far, even using the above economical option. The machine work (boring, line honing, hot-tanking, magnafluxing, assembly, etc.) will cost more than the sum of the parts. Plan on at least $1500 for the bottom end. That leaves you with ~$1500 for a cam swap plus tangibles - enough to do it (most of the way) properly. There's a few threads explaining exactly what I just described and the associated costs. A few keywords in the search bar should get you the info you need.
with 3k I'd go with a cam only set up Hot cam or CC503 and get some good springs and good supporting parts for the cam swap so you can reuse them when you want to do anything more with the car LIKE the 383 build or a H/C/I set up
just my .02
just my .02
Read, read, read, and read some more. Talk to anyone local who builds/races LT1's. Maybe find a "mentor" with a engine or HP similar to what you want and talk to him. The classified section on here can be a real friend to your budget, but you have to know what you are looking at and what you want. A few weeks ago I bought a 385" balanced rotating assembly from a trusted seller on here that I've bought from before for $700 plus shipping. He even let me make payments! Eagle 4340 forged crank, Probe +.040" Forged Flattops, Scat 4340 I beam Rods. The 2 downsides: the rods are 5.7" instead of the 6" I'd prefer (I'll get over that) and I found this deal about 2 months after doing heads/cam on my stock bottom end. I wish I had waited and just did it all at once now, but who knew a deal would come along.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 0
From: reykjavík, iceland
i got a unused motor that i builded in 2006, 346 ls1, prepped shortblock, patriot stage II heads.cam, fast 90 NW90 and so on.. 11,4 comprs
i really tried to do a good job, multy layer head gaskets. ls7 lifters, comp cam chromoly pushrods, and take good care of all the little parts, and though its just a little 346 that thing ended up costing alot of money,
honestly i see big *** motors here on the classfields for simular prices all the time..
the plan was to use it in my car this summer, but i do admitt i think about goin 383 with it all day long.
i dream about bulding a 400cid+ aliminium motor. but honestly that is not goin to happen any time soon.. and for me to build a solid 383 shortblock and get a patric G spec'd cam and use my top end would really cost about half the price it would cost me to get the 4xx motor.
i really tried to do a good job, multy layer head gaskets. ls7 lifters, comp cam chromoly pushrods, and take good care of all the little parts, and though its just a little 346 that thing ended up costing alot of money,
honestly i see big *** motors here on the classfields for simular prices all the time..
the plan was to use it in my car this summer, but i do admitt i think about goin 383 with it all day long.
i dream about bulding a 400cid+ aliminium motor. but honestly that is not goin to happen any time soon.. and for me to build a solid 383 shortblock and get a patric G spec'd cam and use my top end would really cost about half the price it would cost me to get the 4xx motor.
