ok so i was making my way to tampa on I-4 and ran great at mid rpm range but once i got off the exit i needed to get of and got a red light, at idle my car started surging(start revving on its own to about 1500rpm) then when the light turned green and accelerated it started to hesitate or lose power. Now i discovered it only does this when at full temps 220-240. and now the A/C is barely blowing at full switch. I can easily take it to tires plus or something but dont want to pay a $45 diagnostics fee. but i kinda have no choice. Any ideas what this could be?

 

Bump bump bump bump bump

 

someone has to have some knowledge

 

Patience is a virtue. Have you tried doing a search? Lots of guys have the same problems as you and they have been well documented over the years.

 

Yes ive done a search, most of the searched posts on other forums and most of those users have stated that they had new parts put on and replaced parts before there surging began. I havent had anything done to my car yet 100% stock. And i took it to tires plus and they said they dont have OBD1 only OBD2 so now what??

 

yes, new parts often lead to a broken vacuum line or some sort, but it gives you something to check, go buy a handheld vacuum pump and listen for a leak

 

then what? anywhere i need to connect it to? im new so please details would help

 

couple of questions. You said with the air on full it is barley blowing. do you mean the temp is not cold or the volume of air coming out the vents is minimal? What do the volts look like and did you check to see if it is coming out the defrost insted of what ever setting you have it on?

 

the volume of the air is minimal! and i dont have any tools to check the volts. and no im not as dumb as you may think, its not on no defroster, its on Max.

 

That wasn't my point Mr. Jumpy ***. There is a junction under the hood that likes to break and leak the vac out of the control system that directs what vents the air comes out of. But good luck with figuring it out.

 

you can get a decent voltage meter for less than 50 bucks that mrasures resistance, voltage, and ampacity, all which will be useful if you work on your own car. as far as the vacuum goes, it mightl be the hardline that runs along the cowl and heads towards the passenger side. dont take peoples questions as insulting, they are just qualifying your problems to help you trouble shoot, if you knew what the problem was you wouldnt be asking us for help, so to a point you are stupid, we just have to figure out how stupid you are and try to help you as best we can, but with the attitude, i doubt help is on the way without an apology. also check out shbox.com

 

Ok good thing you clarified that. Dont take my impatient comments personally . Im just having trouble figuring it out because im kinda stuck dealing with it on my own. im in college and dont have the money to have the dealer deal with it so details would be great. im kinda stuck being my own mechanic! anyone else want to help

 

Problems & the unknown cause impatience and aggravated attitudes. Like i just said dont take my attitude personal. You would be aggravated trying to put piece by piece of a big puzzle that unsolved. and thanks for calling me stupid, im sure that helps you feel better.

 

it does make me feel better, now stop arguing with everyone, you college kids lack respect. if you want help, you dont give attitude, esp to those trying to help no matter how frustrated or shitty of a day you have had.

now go check this as a possible source of your problems

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#HVAC_vacuum

your looking for a vacuum leak, its not easy, nor is it impossible. the mityvac has a gauge on it, you squeeze the handle and it creates a vacuum and has a gauge on it to show how much vacuum you are building. if the gauge doesnt build vacuum at all, or it drops quickly, you have found the leak. hit the auto parts store and buy some replacement hose.

 

Why are you so affected by my attitude? damn talk about sensitive but with all due respect thanks for the great info. could the cause of the hesitation or surging have to do with the ignition system or only vacuum? ill take that link and get some info. Thanks man.

 

attitude is everything in life, respect is earned and not given, why do you think that when you demanded help the first day or two, no one answered? this is a group of like minded individuals with common goals in life and hobbies. we are all here because we want to be, to further the sport of racing and promote comradere among its members. no one is paid to be here or answer you, and honestly they could tell you to go check for the loose muffler bearings, and the lightbulb fluid all day long. its the entire generation just like you of pansy assed stool pushers who think you are entitled to everything. us from the school of hard knocks dont take **** from people, and thus a lack of response to your query. life lessons got lost somewhere in between the hist 410, calc 152, dont hurt anyones feelings classes. but alas why help you? i was once a young ignorant gearhead full of **** and vinegar and an old head pulled my head out of my rear and set me on the path of bettering myself and those around me, but i digress.

hesitation and surging, yes can be caused by a vac leak. it might not be all of your problems, but lets address one thing at a time. you could also take all the vacuum ports and tape them off with electrical tape, yea it will throw codes, but if it settles your problems, you know its a leak. spark can have its issues, you can test your ICM and OPTI and Coil all with directions from the shbox website. you will need a decent mulitmeter that does voltage & resistance(ohms) but it will help you greatly to spend a few $$ on it 50-100 depending upon brand and such, but get a digital one, youll use it more than you think. plugs and wires arent a cure all, but if you cant remember the last time you changed them, it might be it too. also to fill out what mods you have done to the car, and anything you did recently helps too