tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

how much hard blok can you put in a lt1 and still be streetable?

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

People run half-filled blocks on the street without noticeable cooling issues or anything of the sort. Friend of mine has a half-filled bare block freshly hot tanked ready for machining for sale.

Dave357LT1

How do you know how much to add to make it half full? Is this just for strokers or would it help on a stock stroke motor with a ton of spray/boost?

05HD

Half fill is a circle jerk. Fill it all the way or leave it alone. The peak pressure and all of the damage will happen in the top half of the bore (same place all the cooling takes place).

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

whats the price and is there any machining done already

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Half fill is what I did. Keeps the bearings in place from core shift. If I remember it was like 200 plus the align hone for the caps. Full fill is NOT streetable. Half fill is streetable for most cars and make the only block we have to work with much stronger.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

how far is half way ? and how do you put it in what direction any help. i never done it but seems straite forward.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Add it to the bottom of the freeze plugs, but it will need a align hone to make sure the caps are still straight.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

fill it to the bottom water pump hole, use synthetic oil!

SPOOLED UP

iTrader: (2)

I have mine to the bottome water pump hole.

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Is there a rule of thumb for how much n2o or boost you can run before you should start filling your block? Or is RPM more of a factor than power level?

I plan on making 800+ hp with a F1 procharger, my engine has very good components up to the task but the block is not filled...should I be worried?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

i wouldn't worry... if the block is already machined i'd leave it alone.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

the reason imasking is i found a little crack right above the starter. a couple years ago i frooze the the block and poped2 freeze blugs im thinking thats were the crack came from i was going to cast iron weld it and fill the block

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Probably should have it magnafluxed before using. Just to be sure there are no hard-to-see cracks forming.

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

i know i just saw the crack. the engine is completly done. so im going to see if i can weld the cast iron to try to get it through this year they want 1200 to 2000 to machine my new lt1 block

tt383lt1

iTrader: (3)

i just went up to toll ( a welding store) and there was a guy there buying tig rod for cast iron. he work for 3m. and i asked him how much he would chraged to do some cast iron weld on a sbc engine fully intacked on a engine stand fliped of so he can get to them easy. he said $100 to weld them up..

would you trust him. he welds for a living. and hes done alot of cast iron.

what would you do. i do stuff the right way or dont do it. i just dont have $1300 right now to drop just on a engine block then another 800 to 1000 for the rest of the seals, studs, head gaskets so 2300 on the cheap end..

my thoughts were to just have him weld it and get it through this year and get a new block this next winter