355 build
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
Most tend to agree that the 6 inch isnt needed on a 350, the extra piston dwell from the longer rod most people cannot justify. So to save cash on the piston the 5.7 would probably be the better choise, now a 383 is a differnet cookie, the 6 inch rod would be better.
That's what I was thinking but wasn't sure.
Most tend to agree that the 6 inch isnt needed on a 350, the extra piston dwell from the longer rod most people cannot justify. So to save cash on the piston the 5.7 would probably be the better choise, now a 383 is a differnet cookie, the 6 inch rod would be better.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
Thanks for the input Outlaw, I myself have ran a 355 with 6 inch rods, but I really didn't feel that I was making that much more power than with a 5.7 rod motor, now I have nothing to quantify that statement other than comparing my results to others, and in the motors defence it was far from optimized camshaft wise.
Thanks for the input Outlaw, I myself have ran a 355 with 6 inch rods, but I really didn't feel that I was making that much more power than with a 5.7 rod motor, now I have nothing to quantify that statement other than comparing my results to others, and in the motors defence it was far from optimized camshaft wise
NOW on the other hand some do not like the fact that the wristpin gets moved up into the ring pack causing you to lose some of the piston crown strength on a heavy HP n2o/blower/turbo application. It's tough getting a thick top ring land needed for heavy doses of nitrous and still having the extra rod length. Several builders have told me to "always opt for the longest rod you can stand to have and still retain the piston top ring land you are comfortable with at xxxx hp level"..... however it's not impossible. I have 6" rods in my 383 and my pistons are spec'd for a 500 shot. They will live at those hp levels provided the tune is SPOT ON.... The longer rod is always worth looking into cause while maybe the HP levels will be unchanged from 5.7, 5.85, 6" but the oil temps, side loading, and rod/piston ratio will always improve as you step up thereby theoretically increasing engine longevity by decreasing wear and tear on the pistons and bores...
There are a few reasons to go one way or another with rod length.
5.7"
1 can use the stock rods
2 can use stock pistons (generally)
3 wrist pin doesn't interfere with any of the rings.
4 sometimes can find 5.7's for a few bucks less (same company)
6.0"
1 longer dwell time, causing timing to be more optimised
2 less side loading, causing less wear on the side walls of the engine
3 better rod to stroke ratio, causing a non forged piston to be able to hit higher rpms.
good thing about a 6.0" is if you were really on a budget you could opt for a hyper-eut piston and still hit 6800 rpms safely. The longer dwell time at tdc and bdc allow for less stress on the pin and pin bosses.
5.7"
1 can use the stock rods
2 can use stock pistons (generally)
3 wrist pin doesn't interfere with any of the rings.
4 sometimes can find 5.7's for a few bucks less (same company)
6.0"
1 longer dwell time, causing timing to be more optimised
2 less side loading, causing less wear on the side walls of the engine
3 better rod to stroke ratio, causing a non forged piston to be able to hit higher rpms.
good thing about a 6.0" is if you were really on a budget you could opt for a hyper-eut piston and still hit 6800 rpms safely. The longer dwell time at tdc and bdc allow for less stress on the pin and pin bosses.
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"Most people" don't have a clue how to tune nitrous. Done properly a nitrous motor will last as long as anything else. No need in leading him to believe that spinning rod bearings comes with the territory because it certainly doesn't.
on a 355 a 6" rod is the way to go for sure. Its not a power things that you notice but its optimal for the reasons states above.
I still say run the 7/16 scat rod, its 100 grams lighter then a H beam and along with a lighter piston (like Mahle or CPs Bullet pistons) will rev super fast. The Scat I beams will support 600-700 horse power spun to 7k rpm. Most likely your going to turn yours 6500 and make 400rwhp. Why add unnecessary weight to the rotating assumbly the costs power and et?
If you run Mahle powerpack pistons I wouldnt think you plan on running more then 150 shot which puts you in the clear.
I still say run the 7/16 scat rod, its 100 grams lighter then a H beam and along with a lighter piston (like Mahle or CPs Bullet pistons) will rev super fast. The Scat I beams will support 600-700 horse power spun to 7k rpm. Most likely your going to turn yours 6500 and make 400rwhp. Why add unnecessary weight to the rotating assumbly the costs power and et?
If you run Mahle powerpack pistons I wouldnt think you plan on running more then 150 shot which puts you in the clear.
Stock forged rebuild.
Scat 6" I beams
Mahle pistons (still don't know which ones yet)
Clevite rod and main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Arp rod, main, head, intake, exhaust bolts
Millings standard duty oil pump
Lt4 Ed timing set/Cloyes stock chain and crank sprocket
Svo 30lb injectors
Scat 6" I beams
Mahle pistons (still don't know which ones yet)
Clevite rod and main bearings
Durabond cam bearings
Arp rod, main, head, intake, exhaust bolts
Millings standard duty oil pump
Lt4 Ed timing set/Cloyes stock chain and crank sprocket
Svo 30lb injectors
Looks good, I wouldnt bother with the lt4 ed chain its a good piece but is over priced for what it is. Just a stock replacement 3 piece set will work fine.
Here is about exactly what you are planning on building.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
Here is about exactly what you are planning on building.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
Looks good, I wouldnt bother with the lt4 ed chain its a good piece but is over priced for what it is. Just a stock replacement 3 piece set will work fine.
Here is about exactly what you are planning on building.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
Here is about exactly what you are planning on building.
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
Might I suggest not going the cheap route like everyone else does?
Heres a rough suggestion for you
CP Bullet series pistons
Compstar H beam rods
Clevite H bearings on the rods
P series on the mains
Food for thought. You get what you pay for.
Heres a rough suggestion for you
CP Bullet series pistons
Compstar H beam rods
Clevite H bearings on the rods
P series on the mains
Food for thought. You get what you pay for.
I really wish I could but I don't think some of those things are in the budget.
And for what I want to do with the car I just can't justify it. I just want a meanish street car with the occasional track days where it might see some nitrous. Now if I was going more strip than street I would be all over that setup but for now I think I can just make do.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-SBC125000F05/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-SBC550000F05/
Which one of these pistons do i need?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-SBC550000F05/
Which one of these pistons do i need?
Not sure but the only difference between the two is the compression distance.
Also, I got my srp pro series pistons from cncmotorsports.com for about $100 cheaper then summit.. They usually beat summits prices on most everything they both have. Though the difference varies..
Also, I got my srp pro series pistons from cncmotorsports.com for about $100 cheaper then summit.. They usually beat summits prices on most everything they both have. Though the difference varies..