mine went 9.44 relatively easy.... was a 1.36 60' on that pass as opposed to the usual 1.30. and that was with my old cheater plate.

we went 6.41 in the 1/8 with another local car, stock LONGBLOCK with a comp 305 cam. just had a plate behind a 52mm tb.
th350
welded spiders in the stock 10 bolt
26x10 slicks

 

what does your car weight vtec????? Cause i'm thinking your car is probably alot lighter than your typical 4th gen.....

 

Some of you guys make it sound sooooooooooo simple! I hope to be that fast one day.

 

mine is 3050-3100lbs with me in it. there is no reason a 4th gen can't get to that weight or lighter. i havent cut any structural stuff out of it, still has the ground effects/spoiler, factory glass, and also still has the rear bumper support in it. th400, 9" rearend, and 1 3/4" mild steel 8pt rollbar.

 

you have a roll BAR???? then you technically aren't legal to run in the 9's? or do you have a full cage???? And yeah I realize a 4th gen can GET to that weight but good luck getting it there without completely gutting it of everything.... I'll give you an example with my car.... My car is 3400 lbs with me in it... Mild steel CAGE with 10 pts and lower bar where the rocker panel is connecting the main hoop to the front end bars.

I have all the factory glass, and all body panels remain stock. haven't cut anything structural but removed airbags, it has racing seats, removed ALL HVAC and A/C stuff from it. front bumper support gone, tubular k-member and a-arms, tubular rear LCA's, tubular panhard bar, Ford 9" rearend, denny's driveshaft, BMR Drag swaybar... fiberglass hood with dzus fasteners. TH400...... I have sheetmetal door panels that are carpeted.... few other odds and ends here and there... removed all stock electrical and did a painless wiring setup to save weight...

With a 4th gen you run into a problem and here it is. Our cars start off much heavier. As you lighten them you'll go a little bit faster. but then when you outrun your safety equipment you add weight to be legal. Then you start breaking stuff cuz your car is heavy. so you swap parts to avoid breakage and car gets heavier. (IE a 9" rear weighs way more than a 10 bolt, a Denny's nitrous shaft weighs more than a stock DS, etc)....

So ultimately the only way you'll ever get a 4th gen down to that low of a weight IMO is by ditching all the stock glass for lexan. getting rid of the heavy 4th gen hatch and going to a fiberglass hatch, and either gutting the doors or replacing them with fiberglass doors. You could also probably rework the front end cutting out stock steel and replacing with tubular supports... Also you might consider one of those fiberglass dashboards that VFN makes...

 

as said and shown above you get the weight down hit it with enough boost/nitrous and get it dialed in and its beyond possible

 

time to start thinking outside the box. i know of a 4th gen t/a with a 25.5 that is in the 2800's. he has lexan windows, but that alone doesnt put his car 600lbs lighter than yours.
i know mine wasnt legal to be in the 9's, that is a work currently in progress.

3000-3100 is where most all your 4th gen 275 nitrous cars will be, as that is base weight for most of the 275 classes. many times they are adding weight to get there. most all those guys will have a 25.5 cage as well, and pass tech/scales.
turbo/blower cars will naturally be a bit heavier, since they are carrying more hardware.

 

those cars have stock doors and stock hatches??? prolly not...

Just losing the hatch/rear glass is 130 lbs. The doors are probably another 125-175 lbs if replaced with fiberglass/lexan.... those are the two easiest ways to dump close to 200-300 lbs out of your F-body.

I plan on doing both of those things as well as lexan windshield which is like another 30-40lbs... That right there will have me at hovering around 3100 with me in it.... this guy that has a 25.5 is 2800# WITH HIM IN IT!?!?!?!

If so holy crap. I'd have to see this thing to see how much out the box thinking he did.. LOL.... If money was no issue i'd do aluminum everthing. center section 9", carbon fiber driveshaft, etc... but i ain't got the cash for such exotic purchases...

another reason i carry a bit of extra weight is running exhaust and mufflers.... two spintech muffs are HEAVY. and I run exhaust all the way to the front of the rear tires.... Turbo cars rarely have even one muffler so they are saving a ton of weight in tubing and muffs. Blower cars too since they'll usually take the headers and run them out behind the front wheel (like stephan D's car).... My exhaust probably accounts for 60lbs. maybe more....

 

keep in mind a big single turbo will weigh 70lbs or more in some cases. i know a 106mm is around 80lbs. a full 10lb nitrous bottle weighs around 25lbs. then they have to add on a crap ton of hot side piping, cold side piping, air/water intercooler, ice/water box in the rear, lines going to it..... those cars can get heavy. their hp advantage has to haul all that added weight, too.

i'll be honest, i could get my car down another 75lbs or so pretty easy. lol i still have an electric trunk pulldown, functioning hidden headlights, power windows, power locks, interior panels, carpet, factory gas tank, side impact bars in the doors.... still plenty of stuff to take out.

i know a fully gutted 4th gen with all the suspension stuff will be in the 2900's. without doing any custom stuff. thats stock harness and all that. also on the third gen advantage thing, look up the stock weight on a '88 gta and compare it to a 4th gen stock weight.

 

I went 10.2@133.7x mph with a crappy 1.59 60ft on a 200 hit first time out. I never got a chance to dial in the tune on the 200 hit but for sure would have been a 10.0-9.9 car. This was back ~2004 and the raceweight was 3650 weather was 95 degrees on a July night. Doable but not easy.

 

This is a very interesting thread and I find it completely achievable with a good heads can package and some spray. What are you guys running for heads can? Also I run a Le2 head with his 223/230 cam and rebuilt bottom end with forged rods and scat 9000 cast crank and a new th350 with n20 stall. On 200 shot at 3400lbs race weight what would I be looking at et wise?

 

^^^ You might have trouble with the Scat cast crank.

 

Im lookin to do it on 200 hit. Car weighs 3250 with me in it.

 

man i wish we could get down to 3k lbs. last time i scaled it was 3525 with me in it 3335 with out me.

 

I had to add about 15-20lbs to make 3075lb raceweight. I have a moly 6 point bar.

A PA racing chromoly k-member is about 15lbs lighter than a UMI just to give an example. My s60 was 185lbs with a spool. Some guys will run a backbraced iron Ford 9" with a posi that will weigh 235lbs. th400 weighs a little more than a th350, maybe 10-15lbs. An 8" converter weighs a lot less than a 10" nitrous converter.

My '94 coupe weighed 3435lbs when I got it. My '95 vert weighed 3520 with a 1/4 tank of gas and boxed subframe connectors. My '91 Z28 350 weigh 3425, my '87 IROC weighed 3365. They are pretty close. A stripper 1LE 3rd gen would weigh around 3150.

My car has full glass, stock LT1 brakes. I'm sure if I went to lexan front/rear and drag brakes, I could get it down around 2850 raceweight. I have a ton of metal to cut, and I have every factory wire still in the car. The interior is gutted, but I could put it all back in and still be under 3000 if I got the drag brakes. You have to get creative and do some smart shopping when you start buying suspension stuff. The difference in weight between certain companies k-members is staggering. The same with wheels and tires. A set of Weld draglites 15x3.5 with a Moroso DS-2 26" tire weighs 19lbs each. A radial front tire in 165/80r/15 will weigh 17-18lbs just for the tire.

My friend John has a cam-only car that is crazy light. He won't say exactly how light but i'd guess that it's under 2800.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html

 

please list what you have done to lighten your car. I have aerospace brakes up front but stock brakes in back. and like i said my car is 3400 with me in it.... I go about 170-180... so that puts my car at 3220...... I am planning a glass hatch with lexan, lexan side windows/windshield and possibly glass doors to get my car hopefully much lower than 3000 lbs...

but i'm really interested in what ppl are doing to get their cars at 3075 lb RACEWEIGHT (which i'm assuming means with you in it...).. that's hella light with driver... that means you're at about 2900 lbs empty....

 

Glass doors huh? Lol

 

hahahah Fiberglass... you know what I mean!!!

VFN makes a nice set for 4th gens..... 700 bones.... paint em and you won't know the diff...

 

Yeah I know lol.

I need to weigh mine.

 

i crossed the scales at a pinks all out race a few years back at 2950 with me in it running on fumes with no nitrous bottle in it. i weigh around 160-165.
i added a few things since then, though.


fox mustangs will make you sick how light they can get. 2600lb with driver is not uncommon. -which is why everyone builds a mustang, not because its a better suspension design.