gregrob

iTrader: (8)

I would say 15hp max

Armycraft

Really? i would have expected more for the heads and intake, not sure if that really justifies 800 bucks

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Not really....the LT4 was only rated 30HP over the LT1 in same year; probably half of those gains are due to the slightly bigger cam and roller rockers which allow a higher redline and more compression (10.8)....the rest due to the heads/intake. Ported LT1 heads> stock LT4 heads. They are nice factory heads; but much better options out there now...get your LT1 heads ported.

Armycraft

Like i said im not trying to get crazy i dont want something stupid fast i want to run high 12s, if i can do that with the lt1 heads and stock intake etc with the hotcam and full boltons, ill do that, save me 800 bucks. if i can get 300whp with hotcam and boltons, ill be happy, and i can have the motor done by the end of the month.
And ill go ahead and post what im looking at getting and see what you guys think
Motor -he wants 300 with new optispark and anything he has for it, 47k miles
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/pts/2944654313.html
Hotcam brand new in bag with springs and recipets 180
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/pts/2864899365.html
Roller rockers -80
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2928086699.html
This is the intake and throttle body that i wanted he said 300 for both
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/2860611291.html

But again if 800 bucks is only gonna give me 15hp...ill pass

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Technically, it's possible to run mid 11's with just bolt ons....so you don't NEED heads or cam if you can get decent traction. A cam is a nice addition though...suspension and gears will give you better ET's dollar for dollar. Depends on what is more important to you.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The LT4 intake is internally an LT1 intake with more material above the ports to seal to the taller ports in the heads.

The LT4 stuff is thought to be great but when you really start digging into as cast to as cast they have a small advantage over LT1 but once you port them BOTH the LT1 works at least as well.
Even guys successfully using ported LT4s will say they don't belong on a 350 held to the pcm's 7000ish rpm limits and that you need more displacement and rpm to make them work. BUT even when you look at examples where they turn near 8000rpm on strokers that mythic advantage just never really materializes.

For $500 new in package I might consider flipping them but that is all.

They do have really nice valves in them hollow intake sodium filled exhaust, BUT with today's high lift cams and the springs needed for such you will usually go to a longer valve with a performance build negating the advantage those valves could have offered..

Armycraft

Whats important to me
reliabilty
......
12 second 1/4

i dont want to kill my gas mileage which is why im looking at this cam unless i can find something cheaper then 150 that will be better?
id prefer to stick with the 3.42 gears just because there ooh so nice on my commute
So it seems like the popular consesus would be to
Buy motor/cam/port heads with full boltons
Who would be the best to send my heads to cuz everyone around me does **** poor work for high dollar

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

It is an M6 car right?

If so and you really want to keep the 3.42s then I suggest welding the hood shut.

You have a double overdrive, you go and do heads and cam and try to use 6th because you mistakenly believe low rpms=gas mileage than you are going to HURT mileage vs. having a proper gear in the car. With the .5 OD 4.10 gears are a GOOD thing. The deep overdrive keeps rpm in check. Use an rpm for speed calculator on the web somewhere and see what you get, maybe it will enlighten you a little.

Far as mileage, it doesn't suffer as much with modification as people assume it will, you are still moving the same mass, through the same air so the only extra "work" being done" is maybe a few more rpm of the engine which is minor compared to what it takes to keep a car rolling through the wind.

Armycraft

Well i know low rpms dont mean gas mileage, hell i get best fuel economy if i keep it right around 2300rpm i never use 6th unless im doin at least 70is , i just figured the higher gears would pump me up to around 3krpm like it did in my truck, granted my truck was an nv3500, and this is a t56, regardless, do i really need taller gears to get what im asking for?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

You can do all this and do it reliably with a completely stock LT1....you just need FULL bolt ons and 4.10 gears...that's it. If you cam it without changing the gears (been there done that) you will lose some driveability and some gas mileage. 4.10 gears will wake it up more than the cam alone believe it or not...and 6th gear become usable much more often and the difference on the street is night and day. In my experience, adding a cam has a worse effect on mileage than 4.10's. If budget is not of concern, just call up Ai or LE for a heads/cam package.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Higher vehicle speeds mean lower fuel economy because of aerodynamics MUCH more than the gear.
You already admitted you don't use 6th gear much, putting deeper rearend gears in it would make that gear more accessible. I am with archie as far as at this point and time 4.10s would be a BETTER mod than anything inside the engine.

Stock gearing lugs the engine which is fine for the flawed EPA mileage testing but hurts mileage in the real world, let the engine turn an rpm where it is making some torque.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

stock long block + mild good grind cam + good tuner = 12's all day long with good mpgs and a fun car to drive........

i did it with my LS2 GTO......i love it......

Armycraft

Alright where to buy them, whats a good price i should pay for them, since i have 3.42s i shouldnt need a spacer for them right?
right now buying the motor and the cam/roller rockers im looking at 550, minus gaskets and what not, plus need to get new plug cables so lets say im around 700 so i got 300 left should cover the rear end gears and the shims etc
what would i be looking at running whp wise and 1/4 time wise (with a decent 60')
with having the new motor cam full boltons and 4.10s

Also is having the stock tb ported as well as the stocck intake worth anything?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The throttle body would be worth a handful of HP but not nearly enough to justify the cost.

Porting the intake manifold is not worth anything until you're 500+HP at the flywheel, if not more. Even then the gains are minimal.

Armycraft

Does 50 bucks justify the cost?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Short answer, no.

Where do you see a ported stock throttle body for $50?

Armycraft

http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/2860611291.html

Talked to the guy hed take 50

Armycraft

Do you get rid of the cat with the long tubes? any gains in deleting it, mines clogged up so its either beat it out, take it off and sell it, and put a resonator or strait pipe in,
What are the best long tubes to run?
whats the best cold air to run? i have K&N
Best catback? i have a flowmaster not sure which one
Got the blower sold today got the cash so gonna go pick the motor up this weekend
http://instagr.am/p/Jk14-WhSeL/

Also do i need pushrods for the lt4 hot cam? or just the springs and 1.6 rollers
and are these good for 60 bucks or should i look for something else
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2928086699.html