Need help on a quick build up.
Not really....the LT4 was only rated 30HP over the LT1 in same year; probably half of those gains are due to the slightly bigger cam and roller rockers which allow a higher redline and more compression (10.8)....the rest due to the heads/intake. Ported LT1 heads> stock LT4 heads. They are nice factory heads; but much better options out there now...get your LT1 heads ported.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Not really....the LT4 was only rated 30HP over the LT1 in same year; probably half of those gains are due to the slightly bigger cam and roller rockers which allow a higher redline and more compression (10.8)....the rest due to the heads/intake. Ported LT1 heads> stock LT4 heads. They are nice factory heads; but much better options out there now...get your LT1 heads ported.
And ill go ahead and post what im looking at getting and see what you guys think
Motor -he wants 300 with new optispark and anything he has for it, 47k miles
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/pts/2944654313.html
Hotcam brand new in bag with springs and recipets 180
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/pts/2864899365.html
Roller rockers -80
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2928086699.html
This is the intake and throttle body that i wanted he said 300 for both
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/2860611291.html
But again if 800 bucks is only gonna give me 15hp...ill pass
Last edited by Armycraft; Apr 17, 2012 at 12:04 PM.
Like i said im not trying to get crazy i dont want something stupid fast i want to run high 12s, if i can do that with the lt1 heads and stock intake etc with the hotcam and full boltons, ill do that, save me 800 bucks. if i can get 300whp with hotcam and boltons, ill be happy, and i can have the motor done by the end of the month.
The LT4 intake is internally an LT1 intake with more material above the ports to seal to the taller ports in the heads.
The LT4 stuff is thought to be great but when you really start digging into as cast to as cast they have a small advantage over LT1 but once you port them BOTH the LT1 works at least as well.
Even guys successfully using ported LT4s will say they don't belong on a 350 held to the pcm's 7000ish rpm limits and that you need more displacement and rpm to make them work. BUT even when you look at examples where they turn near 8000rpm on strokers that mythic advantage just never really materializes.
For $500 new in package I might consider flipping them but that is all.
They do have really nice valves in them hollow intake sodium filled exhaust, BUT with today's high lift cams and the springs needed for such you will usually go to a longer valve with a performance build negating the advantage those valves could have offered..
The LT4 stuff is thought to be great but when you really start digging into as cast to as cast they have a small advantage over LT1 but once you port them BOTH the LT1 works at least as well.
Even guys successfully using ported LT4s will say they don't belong on a 350 held to the pcm's 7000ish rpm limits and that you need more displacement and rpm to make them work. BUT even when you look at examples where they turn near 8000rpm on strokers that mythic advantage just never really materializes.
For $500 new in package I might consider flipping them but that is all.
They do have really nice valves in them hollow intake sodium filled exhaust, BUT with today's high lift cams and the springs needed for such you will usually go to a longer valve with a performance build negating the advantage those valves could have offered..
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Whats important to me
reliabilty
......
12 second 1/4
i dont want to kill my gas mileage which is why im looking at this cam unless i can find something cheaper then 150 that will be better?
id prefer to stick with the 3.42 gears just because there ooh so nice on my commute
So it seems like the popular consesus would be to
Buy motor/cam/port heads with full boltons
Who would be the best to send my heads to cuz everyone around me does **** poor work for high dollar
reliabilty
......
12 second 1/4
i dont want to kill my gas mileage which is why im looking at this cam unless i can find something cheaper then 150 that will be better?
id prefer to stick with the 3.42 gears just because there ooh so nice on my commute
So it seems like the popular consesus would be to
Buy motor/cam/port heads with full boltons
Who would be the best to send my heads to cuz everyone around me does **** poor work for high dollar
It is an M6 car right?
If so and you really want to keep the 3.42s then I suggest welding the hood shut.
You have a double overdrive, you go and do heads and cam and try to use 6th because you mistakenly believe low rpms=gas mileage than you are going to HURT mileage vs. having a proper gear in the car. With the .5 OD 4.10 gears are a GOOD thing. The deep overdrive keeps rpm in check. Use an rpm for speed calculator on the web somewhere and see what you get, maybe it will enlighten you a little.
Far as mileage, it doesn't suffer as much with modification as people assume it will, you are still moving the same mass, through the same air so the only extra "work" being done" is maybe a few more rpm of the engine which is minor compared to what it takes to keep a car rolling through the wind.
If so and you really want to keep the 3.42s then I suggest welding the hood shut.
You have a double overdrive, you go and do heads and cam and try to use 6th because you mistakenly believe low rpms=gas mileage than you are going to HURT mileage vs. having a proper gear in the car. With the .5 OD 4.10 gears are a GOOD thing. The deep overdrive keeps rpm in check. Use an rpm for speed calculator on the web somewhere and see what you get, maybe it will enlighten you a little.
Far as mileage, it doesn't suffer as much with modification as people assume it will, you are still moving the same mass, through the same air so the only extra "work" being done" is maybe a few more rpm of the engine which is minor compared to what it takes to keep a car rolling through the wind.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
It is an M6 car right?
If so and you really want to keep the 3.42s then I suggest welding the hood shut.
You have a double overdrive, you go and do heads and cam and try to use 6th because you mistakenly believe low rpms=gas mileage than you are going to HURT mileage vs. having a proper gear in the car. With the .5 OD 4.10 gears are a GOOD thing. The deep overdrive keeps rpm in check. Use an rpm for speed calculator on the web somewhere and see what you get, maybe it will enlighten you a little.
Far as mileage, it doesn't suffer as much with modification as people assume it will, you are still moving the same mass, through the same air so the only extra "work" being done" is maybe a few more rpm of the engine which is minor compared to what it takes to keep a car rolling through the wind.
If so and you really want to keep the 3.42s then I suggest welding the hood shut.
You have a double overdrive, you go and do heads and cam and try to use 6th because you mistakenly believe low rpms=gas mileage than you are going to HURT mileage vs. having a proper gear in the car. With the .5 OD 4.10 gears are a GOOD thing. The deep overdrive keeps rpm in check. Use an rpm for speed calculator on the web somewhere and see what you get, maybe it will enlighten you a little.
Far as mileage, it doesn't suffer as much with modification as people assume it will, you are still moving the same mass, through the same air so the only extra "work" being done" is maybe a few more rpm of the engine which is minor compared to what it takes to keep a car rolling through the wind.
Whats important to me
reliabilty
......
12 second 1/4
i dont want to kill my gas mileage which is why im looking at this cam unless i can find something cheaper then 150 that will be better?
id prefer to stick with the 3.42 gears just because there ooh so nice on my commute
So it seems like the popular consesus would be to
Buy motor/cam/port heads with full boltons
Who would be the best to send my heads to cuz everyone around me does **** poor work for high dollar
reliabilty
......
12 second 1/4
i dont want to kill my gas mileage which is why im looking at this cam unless i can find something cheaper then 150 that will be better?
id prefer to stick with the 3.42 gears just because there ooh so nice on my commute
So it seems like the popular consesus would be to
Buy motor/cam/port heads with full boltons
Who would be the best to send my heads to cuz everyone around me does **** poor work for high dollar
Higher vehicle speeds mean lower fuel economy because of aerodynamics MUCH more than the gear.
You already admitted you don't use 6th gear much, putting deeper rearend gears in it would make that gear more accessible. I am with archie as far as at this point and time 4.10s would be a BETTER mod than anything inside the engine.
Stock gearing lugs the engine which is fine for the flawed EPA mileage testing but hurts mileage in the real world, let the engine turn an rpm where it is making some torque.
You already admitted you don't use 6th gear much, putting deeper rearend gears in it would make that gear more accessible. I am with archie as far as at this point and time 4.10s would be a BETTER mod than anything inside the engine.
Stock gearing lugs the engine which is fine for the flawed EPA mileage testing but hurts mileage in the real world, let the engine turn an rpm where it is making some torque.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Alright where to buy them, whats a good price i should pay for them, since i have 3.42s i shouldnt need a spacer for them right?
right now buying the motor and the cam/roller rockers im looking at 550, minus gaskets and what not, plus need to get new plug cables so lets say im around 700 so i got 300 left should cover the rear end gears and the shims etc
what would i be looking at running whp wise and 1/4 time wise (with a decent 60')
with having the new motor cam full boltons and 4.10s
Also is having the stock tb ported as well as the stocck intake worth anything?
right now buying the motor and the cam/roller rockers im looking at 550, minus gaskets and what not, plus need to get new plug cables so lets say im around 700 so i got 300 left should cover the rear end gears and the shims etc
what would i be looking at running whp wise and 1/4 time wise (with a decent 60')
with having the new motor cam full boltons and 4.10s
Also is having the stock tb ported as well as the stocck intake worth anything?
Porting the intake manifold is not worth anything until you're 500+HP at the flywheel, if not more. Even then the gains are minimal.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach
Do you get rid of the cat with the long tubes? any gains in deleting it, mines clogged up so its either beat it out, take it off and sell it, and put a resonator or strait pipe in,
What are the best long tubes to run?
whats the best cold air to run? i have K&N
Best catback? i have a flowmaster not sure which one
Got the blower sold today got the cash so gonna go pick the motor up this weekend
http://instagr.am/p/Jk14-WhSeL/
Also do i need pushrods for the lt4 hot cam? or just the springs and 1.6 rollers
and are these good for 60 bucks or should i look for something else
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2928086699.html
What are the best long tubes to run?
whats the best cold air to run? i have K&N
Best catback? i have a flowmaster not sure which one
Got the blower sold today got the cash so gonna go pick the motor up this weekend
http://instagr.am/p/Jk14-WhSeL/
Also do i need pushrods for the lt4 hot cam? or just the springs and 1.6 rollers
and are these good for 60 bucks or should i look for something else
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2928086699.html
Last edited by Armycraft; Apr 18, 2012 at 09:03 PM.
