Sickening, . Dynoed the sopposed four hundred horse 383 six speed, 315 h 330 tq. To add insult to injury the stock motor that went in a six cyl car went to a speed shop yesterday and tuned up at 355 h . The guy runnin the dyno said it ran lean, and im sure that the "stage three" clutch slipps now after loosing 135 and r to the stop that vibrated loose in my short throw. I dont even wanna drive it now. What to do , have it tuned a little and run the summer or start pullin motor this weekend. If i pull it what is a strong yet drivable clutch and what sort of cam do i wanna look towards for the 383. I have a good set of heads, can i just have them done and a bigger throttle body and run the rest of the year? Suggestions welcom. Bashers have at it, i cant wait to see the former owner/ builder......

 

We can't bash anything without seeing a build or parts list however I would say those numbers are abysmal at the least.

 

Eagle stroker kit, lt4 cam stock heads, msd ign , **** intake and headers, stage 3 clutch

 

get rid of the "****" headers and intake and throw some dime in that department, than do some work on the heads and look around and throw some idea's out there with your cam selection. I would pick about 3 to 5 cam's you think might match the bottom/top end and see what others have seen gain wise with them.

 

Where would some good places to start on heads. Valve size and cc's... what type of comp should i look for i might throw a little spray at this one

 

Also, have super comps for it, and a k&n intake is a phone call away, i dont think thoes will bring me the three fifty i wanted last sat

 

Well just about everything you listed here is a mistake.

With the overall parts selection I can almost guarantee the "Eagle stroker kit" uses a cast crank. There are more failure stories on these pieces than success stories.

The LT4 cam (hopefully you meant HOT cam and not the weak LT4 PRODUCTION cam) is a very poor choice for a larger displacement engine. To make matters worse using stock heads just exacerbates the problem - the heads and cam are VITAL to getting a 383 to perform.

The MSD ignition is another mistake as the $ put towards that could have been spent elsewhere such as a GOOD set of heads/cam. Fact is the stock optispark can handle just about as much power as you can throw at it under 7000RPMs, obviously far short of where your motor makes its power.

The "**** headers and intake" could mean a bunch of things, although at this point I would consider ANY aftermarket headers and ANY aftermarket intake the very least of your concerns.

Those numbers are still abysmal, however they are about what I would expect from a disaster of a build such as that.

Lots of wasted expense here. Whoever built this motor put all of the money in the wrong places. If I were you I'd pull it all apart and start from scratch using proven parts, proven methods, proven tuning, and proven experience.

Take my build for example. I'm not using any super fancy high dollar parts, no super fancy ignition, nothing out of the ordinary than your typical 383 build, yet my car puts down impressive numbers for the same expense as most other builds. I spent a year researching what I wanted to do, what my goals were, and what parts complimented eachother. If I had to do my build all over again, I wouldn't change one single thing.

Except for maybe the color of the car.

 

Displacement doesn't add power without a good set of heads and cam to feed it, you put the cart before the horse and then bought a shitty car on top of that.

Properly ported stock heads and a matching cam on a stock shortblock can have you 100hp+ and 50tq up from where you are.

You followed the old saying "there is no replacement for displacement" well there is and it is called UNDERSTANDING. You went in blind and spent a lot of money for nothing.

The key right now is how you handle it.

Get us a more complete parts list or at least some pics of the headers so we can see what they are and we can help polish this turd a little, but if you went with a cast stroker crank it would be best to NOT try and get much power out of it, because if you do you will ruin the rest of your parts when the crank scatters.

Lot easier to ask questions FIRST.

 

I called eagle about a month ago, they said the only way to tell is to look on the first counterweight, is there a way to do this in the car, will the pan come off without dropping the motor. The headers are stainless long tubes off ebay. And i know i need porting and cam... What lift and duration , what size valves, how many cc cambers. Have spare heads, will send to machine shop , but if i walk in my machine shop and say port these please he will take my money and promptly tell me to leave.

 

Do some research - find a combo that works, then emulate. The fact of the matter is the homework has been done for you.

 

See the for sale link in the signature of the post right above mine? Click it and see what it took to do that he has a good rundown on the motor in that thread.

It is an automatic car putting 45% more power to the wheels than you have without anything wild.

 

is it possible to drain the oil pan pull the oil level sensor and use a scope. Shouldn't take more then an hour and then re install oil level sensor and refill with oil. Or is the windage tray in the way?

 

On a gd moble app. I dont know if i can see these things

 

Dont feel like your getting bashed here, its just like Ram & 96 says, should of researched first or asked the questions before not after. You'll get it sorted out, its a Live and Learn thing in the HP world....(for some)

 

Far as identifying the crank, what did you pay for the stroker kit? If it was the $7-800ish kit then it is cast.

 

alot of good info in this thread......im not supprised at all with your results and the combo you have right now.......try pulling some stumps down with that motor should work pretty good lol.........live and learn man.....

 

Didnt build it, motor came from a wrecked car

 

you're 100% better off pulling it and starting from scratch and using the info provided here to get you where u want to go.

 

Don't be so quick to bash someone, the guy didn't build the POS. He was taken by some jerk who sold it from a wrecked car advertised as a "400hp 383".

 

FWIW...the original seller/builder only misled/shafted you out of 25hp or so....a 400 flywheel hp LT1 should make approximately 340 RWHP assuming 15% drivetrain losses. Stock heads on a stroker was a dumb idea; but even if you put good heads on it, you then run the risk of breaking the almost certainly cast crankshaft with some real power...sell it to somebody who needs a truck motor and move on or just have fun with it for what it is.