No spin no crank no start on rebuilt LT1
05-05-2012, 10:37 PM
#1
No spin no crank no start on rebuilt LT1 Just finished installing the rebuilt LT1.
Little info on it:
93 Z28
350 bored .030 over to 355
LE 226/232 .576 .571 110
Full bolt ons short of gears
1.6 Comp pro mag rockers
Howards springs
New LS7 lifters
Stock heads milled .020
New plugs and wires
Anywho, it has a new starter. I needed to crank the motor over to get oil pressure so I could adjust the rockers (I'm sure it's not the preferred way)
I'm getting dash lights, head lights, fuel pump primes, I'm getting the same power at the battery as the starter. The starter isn't clicking nor spinning.
I have the purple wire connected to the small stud on starter
The big wire from battery to big stud
The other big stud has the wire from solenoid to starter.
Checked my grounds all seem to be good.
Any ideas? What gives? I'm at the point of pulling the starter am getting it tested.
Little info on it:
93 Z28
350 bored .030 over to 355
LE 226/232 .576 .571 110
Full bolt ons short of gears
1.6 Comp pro mag rockers
Howards springs
New LS7 lifters
Stock heads milled .020
New plugs and wires
Anywho, it has a new starter. I needed to crank the motor over to get oil pressure so I could adjust the rockers (I'm sure it's not the preferred way)
I'm getting dash lights, head lights, fuel pump primes, I'm getting the same power at the battery as the starter. The starter isn't clicking nor spinning.
I have the purple wire connected to the small stud on starter
The big wire from battery to big stud
The other big stud has the wire from solenoid to starter.
Checked my grounds all seem to be good.
Any ideas? What gives? I'm at the point of pulling the starter am getting it tested.
05-06-2012, 04:43 AM
#3
First off you will not get enough oil pressure by cranking it over with the starter to adjust the rockers. You have to adjust them by feel when the pushrod hits the lifter cup. You will either kill your battery and/or your starter waayyy before you get oil to the top end.
First check all your grounds/connections. I know its simple but it gets overlooked often.
Do you have the purple wire on the correct stud? On most starters, not all though, there are to posts. You want the want that is marked 'S'. Its normally the one closest to the block.
If you have power to the purple wire and its on the correct stud, it should turn over(not necessarily start, but should turn over). If it doesn't more than likely your starter is bad. There are more catastrophic possibilities but we will start here first.
First check all your grounds/connections. I know its simple but it gets overlooked often.
Do you have the purple wire on the correct stud? On most starters, not all though, there are to posts. You want the want that is marked 'S'. Its normally the one closest to the block.
If you have power to the purple wire and its on the correct stud, it should turn over(not necessarily start, but should turn over). If it doesn't more than likely your starter is bad. There are more catastrophic possibilities but we will start here first.
05-06-2012, 04:51 AM
#4
Ok I mis read your post some. When you said you had the same voltage at the starter as the battery I assumed you meant the purple wire.
Do your gauges move or lights dim when you try and start it?
Is it an auto or 6 speed? If its a 6 speed is the clutch safety switch hooked up? If its an auto, is the neutral safety switch hooked up on the shifter?
IMO, the easiest way to diag this problem is to start at the purple wire on the starter, use a test light or a meter to see if you are getting power to it when you are trying to start the car. If you are, then either the starter is bad or you have a bad connection somewhere.
If you don't have power to the purple wire, its time to start back tracking through that circuit to find out where/why the power stops.
Keep us updated. It's probably something simple.
Do your gauges move or lights dim when you try and start it?
Is it an auto or 6 speed? If its a 6 speed is the clutch safety switch hooked up? If its an auto, is the neutral safety switch hooked up on the shifter?
IMO, the easiest way to diag this problem is to start at the purple wire on the starter, use a test light or a meter to see if you are getting power to it when you are trying to start the car. If you are, then either the starter is bad or you have a bad connection somewhere.
If you don't have power to the purple wire, its time to start back tracking through that circuit to find out where/why the power stops.
Keep us updated. It's probably something simple.
05-06-2012, 02:33 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
shbox.com, Method 1. Most people do it on th engine stand before the motor is installed.
Trending Topics
05-06-2012, 03:06 PM
#8
So really I need to find out if 1 or 6 is tdc then adjust the exhaust and intake valves shoebox lists then do one full crank on hub and either one or 6 should be tdc again and I can adjust following valves.
Can I adjust them without oil pressure on lifters?
Can I adjust them without oil pressure on lifters?
05-06-2012, 04:34 PM
#9
The easiest way is to do one cylinder at a time. I know there are methods where you can do several valves at one time, that never worked for me. I'm pretty focused when adjusting valves and I find it easier, for me at least to work on one cylinder.
I would go buy a remote starter if you don't have one. They aren't very much and are a good tool to have in your box. Its much easier to bump the engine over with a remote starter instead of using the key. You can also turn it over using a long ratchet on the crank bolt but that's a PITA on these cars.
Lets start on cylinder one adjusting the intake valve. Tighten both rocker arms down some. Don't run them all the way down. You want to be able to tell when the valve is all the way open. If you run the bolt down to far the valve might piston or you could bottom the lifter out.
Bump the engine until the exhaust valve starts to open. You will be on the base circle of the intake lobe. With two fingers try to spin the pushrod on the intake valve. If it won't spin back it off till it does. Now slowly tighten the nut on the intake valve while spinning the pushrod with your other hand. Have a real light touch on the pushrod. Keep spinning the pushrod and tightening the nut down till the pushrod stops turning. What you are feeling for is when there is no slack between the pushrod and lifter cup, pushrod and rocker arm and rocker arm and valve. This is zero lash. If the lifters are new and aren't pumped up its a little more difficult to find because oil isn't keeping the lifter cup up, just a little spring.
Once you think you found zero lash back the nut off 1/4 turn, the pushrod should turn, tighten it down again 1/4 turn. Do this to make sure you are actually at zero lash. It's an easy way to check your work.
Once you are confident you are at zero lash, tighten the nut down 3/4 of a turn more. That's your preload. I've tried 1/2 to full turn and found 3/4 turn is a good middle ground. This is for stock lifters. If you are using another type of lifter you will have to find out how much preload that lifter needs. Tighten up your poly lock in the middle of the nut holding your wrench secure so you don't change the amount of preload.
Then bump the engine over, the exhaust valve will close. When the intake valve starts to open its time to adjust the exhaust valve. Repeat the process above.
This process will get the valves close enough for you to start and run the car. If it doesn't want to start and back fires from the intake or exhaust that means you have a valve/s to tight. If it starts and one is clicking real loud that means the a valve or valves is loose.
You will be surprised how long it takes to get oil out of the pushrods to the rocker arms. Let it run for a while to make sure all the lifters are pumped up.
Go back through the valves again. You can either do it with the car off using the process I listed before or you can do it with the car running.
If you have any questions PM me your phone number and I can go over this with you on the phone. If you aren't familiar adjusting valves it can be a PITA till you get the hang of it.
I am going out to mow my yard so I will be out for a little while.
J
I would go buy a remote starter if you don't have one. They aren't very much and are a good tool to have in your box. Its much easier to bump the engine over with a remote starter instead of using the key. You can also turn it over using a long ratchet on the crank bolt but that's a PITA on these cars.
Lets start on cylinder one adjusting the intake valve. Tighten both rocker arms down some. Don't run them all the way down. You want to be able to tell when the valve is all the way open. If you run the bolt down to far the valve might piston or you could bottom the lifter out.
Bump the engine until the exhaust valve starts to open. You will be on the base circle of the intake lobe. With two fingers try to spin the pushrod on the intake valve. If it won't spin back it off till it does. Now slowly tighten the nut on the intake valve while spinning the pushrod with your other hand. Have a real light touch on the pushrod. Keep spinning the pushrod and tightening the nut down till the pushrod stops turning. What you are feeling for is when there is no slack between the pushrod and lifter cup, pushrod and rocker arm and rocker arm and valve. This is zero lash. If the lifters are new and aren't pumped up its a little more difficult to find because oil isn't keeping the lifter cup up, just a little spring.
Once you think you found zero lash back the nut off 1/4 turn, the pushrod should turn, tighten it down again 1/4 turn. Do this to make sure you are actually at zero lash. It's an easy way to check your work.
Once you are confident you are at zero lash, tighten the nut down 3/4 of a turn more. That's your preload. I've tried 1/2 to full turn and found 3/4 turn is a good middle ground. This is for stock lifters. If you are using another type of lifter you will have to find out how much preload that lifter needs. Tighten up your poly lock in the middle of the nut holding your wrench secure so you don't change the amount of preload.
Then bump the engine over, the exhaust valve will close. When the intake valve starts to open its time to adjust the exhaust valve. Repeat the process above.
This process will get the valves close enough for you to start and run the car. If it doesn't want to start and back fires from the intake or exhaust that means you have a valve/s to tight. If it starts and one is clicking real loud that means the a valve or valves is loose.
You will be surprised how long it takes to get oil out of the pushrods to the rocker arms. Let it run for a while to make sure all the lifters are pumped up.
Go back through the valves again. You can either do it with the car off using the process I listed before or you can do it with the car running.
If you have any questions PM me your phone number and I can go over this with you on the phone. If you aren't familiar adjusting valves it can be a PITA till you get the hang of it.
I am going out to mow my yard so I will be out for a little while.
J
