Th400 stall
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Th400 stall Im trying to figure out what size stall to order for my th400 im buying. Going to set it up for NA. 355 21* TFS A.I. heads , 22x/23x 61x/61x 110 lsa and intake. I was thinking 8"and 4500.
I would suggest that you don't buy a TH-400 unless you plan to include aluminum drums. For a street strip car a TH-350 is a way better choice. If you are drag racing a TH-200 is the only way to go with your combination.
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Aluminum for weight? Why 350 over 400? I thought the 350 cost more to build and handle hp than its worth? The car only drives to the track and to hooters so thats why im dropping the O.D. and the nightmares. Dont know anyone running the 200 so i know nothing good or bad about them. Ill do some reading. What stall size tho obi one?
Im with gizmo, TH400 adds a lot of unnecessary wieght to the drivetrain. For your NA 355, you wont be able to break the TH350. Actually I have an aluminum drummed TH350 for sale
I run a nitrous fed 398ci LT1 on my TH350, never a problem.I run PTC in my nitrous and turbo car..wouldnt run another type of convertor.
Also for your setup....Id be really suprised if PTC recommends a 4500 stall. Id put my money on a 3-3500 stall is probably what they will suggest.
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Any reduction in rotating weight is a gain in ET. A TH-350 is plenty strong for your combination. Just make sure that you install a good cooler if you are going to run an 8" stall on the street.
A good TH-200 would show a serious gain in ET, but wouldn't hold up long on the street.
Dont know anyone running the 200 so i know nothing good or bad about them. Ill do some reading.
Not sure if it's going to apply since your tranny is different, but on my 93 383 car I've got the built 700R4 with a 3600 stall. 373 gears, LE2 heads, CC306 cam. Mines mostly street with some strip, and the 3600 is extremely street friendly. It drives just like stock until you smash the peddle, and lights right up to 3600.
If your car is mainly strip only, a 4500 stall would be about right. Even with my car being mostly street I wish I would have gone 4000. People complain about driving from a stop even with the 3600 but my experience has been just the opposite, I put the car in drive and it rolls just like stock, even with the slightest throttle it goes with no excessive revving needed. I've got a Revmax stall by the way (site sponsor). Great product, great warranty, amazing price. I also never use OD.
So as far as the mechanics of your transmission I don't know for sure if my experience would apply, or if everything would need to be taken into account differently but there's my .02 cents
. For a track only car a 3600 ain't enough with your engine build.
If your car is mainly strip only, a 4500 stall would be about right. Even with my car being mostly street I wish I would have gone 4000. People complain about driving from a stop even with the 3600 but my experience has been just the opposite, I put the car in drive and it rolls just like stock, even with the slightest throttle it goes with no excessive revving needed. I've got a Revmax stall by the way (site sponsor). Great product, great warranty, amazing price. I also never use OD.
So as far as the mechanics of your transmission I don't know for sure if my experience would apply, or if everything would need to be taken into account differently but there's my .02 cents
. For a track only car a 3600 ain't enough with your engine build. 
i run a th400 with 4500 stall, similar setup as yours.. i am running carbed, strictly strip.. I had converter built by TransKing in Conroe, TX.. they r very trustworthy and they built my transbrake also.
It WILL handle the power...this message will self destruct
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How much faster? Has anyone ever did a apples to apples sttaight up swap and posted the results? Im sure if i poop before i run ill go faster. The question is did i have mexican the night before.
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http://www.racewithjw.com/NewProducts.php
Because the Turbo 400 is a bigger, beefier version of the GM TH-350, this added strength comes with increased rotating weight and mass of its gears and internal components. As all good racers know, weight and mass absorbs horsepower produced by the engine, and those stronger, wider gears increase what the engineers refer to as “parasitic loss”, due to greater friction. Just how much power is sacrificed to a TH-400 over, say, an aftermarket design, two-speed Powerglide varies by application. Despite this shortcoming, when power and torque exceed the capability of an automatic transmission to resist component failure, the answer is often found in a Turbo 400. It’s also still reasonably easy to locate a used Turbo 400 transmission core as a starting point, and the cost of a racing rebuild is also still attractive.
My th350 was built by my local shop called Competition Transmission. It's rated to handle over 800hp, and has some lighter/stronger internals. He also offers what he calls his Comp-Eliminator transmission where every part inside is lightened, gears are coated, but it is very expensive at around $5k and it won't live on the street.
There are slight gear ratio differences between them as well:
350 - 2.52 1.52 1.00
400 - 2.48 1.48 1.00
I ordered my th350 with a 2.75 1st gear. A 4L60E has a 3.06 1st gear which is why you see some of these LS1 stock internal cars running insane 60-foot times and then laying down up top.
He went from a TH-350 to a TH-400, no special light weight parts, just a standard build.
He lost ZERO. Nothing, nada. ET was exactly the same...
That statement doesn't hold up without timeslips and DA for the runs. It is also a lowsy example for this thread. There is a huge difference betwean a 9.20 bracket car what the OP has. It also depends on who built the transmission.