WTF harmonic balancer issues?
WTF harmonic balancer issues? So what I thought was a bad alternator looks to be like the harmonic balancer on my new 383 just took a ****....the outside "ring" is loose as hell and has tons of play. It caused my belt to be ripped to shreds which I though was because of a bad alternator bearing and it was not charging. This pos has less than 2000 miles...what are my options for fixing this? Or do I have to buy a new one? To top it off somebody canceled their dyno appointment next monday at PCM for less so I took it....need my car on the road this week 
Oh yea, its a Professional Products aftermarket balancer as you can tell by the pic.
Are these known to come apart like this
Should I put the stock one back on Whats the stock one rated at RPM wise anyway? I won't spin it past 6500rpm or so?
Are these known to come apart like this Should I put the stock one back on Whats the stock one rated at RPM wise anyway? I won't spin it past 6500rpm or so? I've run my stock one to the 7000rpm pcm limit without issues. Although its in great shape I don't know how long it will last at that kind of rpm.
I've had a few professional products balancers for regular old sbc and bbc without any issues. The sbc seen a occasional 8k rpm and seen 7k countless times. No issues.
Id swap the stock one back on as long as its in good shape and run it
I've had a few professional products balancers for regular old sbc and bbc without any issues. The sbc seen a occasional 8k rpm and seen 7k countless times. No issues.
Id swap the stock one back on as long as its in good shape and run it
I'd prefer the stock one over "Professional Products" any day. That brand may be ok for simple "nuts and bolts" parts, but I wouldn't trust them where any technology or science comes into play; cheap Chinese junk.
I don't know what the stock damper is rated at, but I know a lot of people spinning them to 6500 for years without issues. One caveat though: If it's your ORIGINAL stock damper, the elastomer could be degraded/brittle just from age. Poke around on it and compare to the "new" rubber in the failed damper. You might want to buy a new stock one if you intend to leave it on there indefinitely.
I don't know what the stock damper is rated at, but I know a lot of people spinning them to 6500 for years without issues. One caveat though: If it's your ORIGINAL stock damper, the elastomer could be degraded/brittle just from age. Poke around on it and compare to the "new" rubber in the failed damper. You might want to buy a new stock one if you intend to leave it on there indefinitely.
Ok...the stock one I have is in a lot better shape ha ha. I'll go with it for now I took the Professional products one off....there's no rubber left, the outer ring is completely separated and the bolts were backing out; damn Chinese workmanship LMAO Let this be a lesson to others to avoid Professional Products shoddy POS garbage product. No wonder I was hearing all this damn banging and knocking when my "alternator died"...see how much play was in this thing 
Let this be a lesson to others to avoid Professional Products shoddy POS garbage product. No wonder I was hearing all this damn banging and knocking when my "alternator died"...see how much play was in this thing If it's not one thing it's another.....the Professional products crank hub has a peg that sticks out so you can't bolt up the stock balancer to it.
What should I do? Grind off the peg and try to make it work with the stock balancer or do I have to replace the whole crank hub with the stock one What tools are needed for that? What a PITA!
What should I do? Grind off the peg and try to make it work with the stock balancer or do I have to replace the whole crank hub with the stock one What tools are needed for that? What a PITA! Last edited by ahritchie; Jun 11, 2012 at 06:57 PM.
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This is getting ugly and more complicated by the day; it turns out my no longer stock 383 LT1 shortblock was both internally AND externally balanced by adding some weight to the flywheel and DRILLING SOME HOLES in the harmonic balancer (see pic)to remove weight (possibly compromising the rubber in the balancer from heat). Does this mean I have to have the replacement balancer (stock) balance matched to the old one Is that even possible anymore that the rubber has disintegrated and the center of the balancer free wheels around? What are my options? Pull the damn motor and have the whole thing rebalanced?! This sucks....experts please chime in.
by adding some weight to the flywheel and DRILLING SOME HOLES in the harmonic balancer (see pic)to remove weight (possibly compromising the rubber in the balancer from heat). Does this mean I have to have the replacement balancer (stock) balance matched to the old one Is that even possible anymore that the rubber has disintegrated and the center of the balancer free wheels around? What are my options? Pull the damn motor and have the whole thing rebalanced?! This sucks....experts please chime in. LS1 Tech Stories
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This is getting ugly and more complicated by the day; it turns out my no longer stock 383 LT1 shortblock was both internally AND externally balanced by adding some weight to the flywheel and DRILLING SOME HOLES in the harmonic balancer (see pic)to remove weight (possibly compromising the rubber in the balancer from heat). Does this mean I have to have the replacement balancer (stock) balance matched to the old one Is that even possible anymore that the rubber has disintegrated and the center of the balancer free wheels around? What are my options? Pull the damn motor and have the whole thing rebalanced?! This sucks....experts please chime in.
by adding some weight to the flywheel and DRILLING SOME HOLES in the harmonic balancer (see pic)to remove weight (possibly compromising the rubber in the balancer from heat). Does this mean I have to have the replacement balancer (stock) balance matched to the old one Is that even possible anymore that the rubber has disintegrated and the center of the balancer free wheels around? What are my options? Pull the damn motor and have the whole thing rebalanced?! This sucks....experts please chime in.Is the crank keyed for your damper/balancer?
Those 4 holes are there to balance the damper itself. No, they didn't contribute to the damper failure.
With the exception of that counterweight on the flywheel, your engine IS internally balanced, just like all SBC's with the one piece rear main seal.
Many aftermarket rotating assemblies are completely internally balanced and don't require that weight on the flywheel, but yours obviously isn't one of those. Regardless, the flywheel weight has nothing to do with your issue at hand.
Don't over-think this. Just replace the hub and damper.
With the exception of that counterweight on the flywheel, your engine IS internally balanced, just like all SBC's with the one piece rear main seal.
Many aftermarket rotating assemblies are completely internally balanced and don't require that weight on the flywheel, but yours obviously isn't one of those. Regardless, the flywheel weight has nothing to do with your issue at hand.
Don't over-think this. Just replace the hub and damper.
Those 4 holes are there to balance the damper itself. No, they didn't contribute to the damper failure.
With the exception of that counterweight on the flywheel, your engine IS internally balanced, just like all SBC's with the one piece rear main seal.
Many aftermarket rotating assemblies are completely internally balanced and don't require that weight on the flywheel, but yours obviously isn't one of those. Regardless, the flywheel weight has nothing to do with your issue at hand.
Don't over-think this. Just replace the hub and damper.
With the exception of that counterweight on the flywheel, your engine IS internally balanced, just like all SBC's with the one piece rear main seal.
Many aftermarket rotating assemblies are completely internally balanced and don't require that weight on the flywheel, but yours obviously isn't one of those. Regardless, the flywheel weight has nothing to do with your issue at hand.
Don't over-think this. Just replace the hub and damper.
Hopefully he'll chime in to clarify. There looked to be a little wear on the 140k stock crankshaft hub....is it safe to reuse?
I haven't checked personally, but by googling the part it does appear to be keyed: http://www.spiderautomotive.com/8003090030.html
Is this the best method for replacing the crankshaft hub/balancer? Suggestions?
http://www.lt1engines.com/tech/remov...lt1-crank-hub/
http://www.lt1engines.com/tech/remov...lt1-crank-hub/
If the damper is really a balancer it should be keyed so you don't have to worry about putting it in any specific position. Check the crank shaft to see if it's keyed. If it isn't then you need to have it keyed for an actual balancer. You need to get a keyed hub.
I think you have a six speed? If so, no need to use a chain. Just put trans in 5th gear with the e-brake on (as long as driveshaft is connected that is) and that will be enough resistance to do whatever you need to.
I think you have a six speed? If so, no need to use a chain. Just put trans in 5th gear with the e-brake on (as long as driveshaft is connected that is) and that will be enough resistance to do whatever you need to.
If the damper is really a balancer it should be keyed so you don't have to worry about putting it in any specific position. Check the crank shaft to see if it's keyed. If it isn't then you need to have it keyed for an actual balancer. You need to get a keyed hub.
I think you have a six speed? If so, no need to use a chain. Just put trans in 5th gear with the e-brake on (as long as driveshaft is connected that is) and that will be enough resistance to do whatever you need to.
I think you have a six speed? If so, no need to use a chain. Just put trans in 5th gear with the e-brake on (as long as driveshaft is connected that is) and that will be enough resistance to do whatever you need to.
Yea, its a 6spd. 
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stock hubs are not keyed. bring #1 cyl to TDC and press on hub with the "pointer" part at 12 o clock. Actually it doesn't mater what orientation you press it on but "stock" that is how they align it. Non keyed it does not matter. Keyed hub only goes on one way.
if you want a good high $ balancer..get the ATI
if you want a good high $ balancer..get the ATI
stock hubs are not keyed. bring #1 cyl to TDC and press on hub with the "pointer" part at 12 o clock. Actually it doesn't mater what orientation you press it on but "stock" that is how they align it. Non keyed it does not matter. Keyed hub only goes on one way.
if you want a good high $ balancer..get the ATI
if you want a good high $ balancer..get the ATI
Guess I will have to take of the Professional products hub and find out if the NEW 383 crank is keyed or not (I would assume so).Back to a previous question though....could I grind off the small metal peg on the aftermarket professional products hub preventing the STOCK balancer from mounting; basically just using the aftermarket hub already on the motor and STOCK balancer
Or do I NEED to use both the stock hub and stock balancer togetherThis thread makes my brain hurt.
If your balancer is an actual balncer then you cannot use the stock damper. The stock damper is zero balanced. You would need a balancer that is balanced the same as what you just took off. It needs to be keyed so it does not slide out of position.
Or can they?Am I understanding this correctly?
