Couple 1/8th Strip Questions
#1
Couple 1/8th Strip Questions
I finally got all the out of state crap taken care of on my camaro so it is officially in my name and I can start tearing it down now. My main goal is to have a nice basic rebuilt Lt1 for now. The car has 184,000 miles and I'm pretty positive a blown head gasket. The previous owner neglected it so I'm sure it needs this TLC. I'm going to get the rebuild kit from Summit with forged pistons since my budget is a little low right now.
If everything go's well in the rebuild and I get her up and running soon, what do you guys think it can do in the 1/8th strip? I know a lot of you guys run 1/4 but the only 1/4 close to me is 200+ miles away lol. And I really wish the previous owner hadn't bought the Hypertech programmer he put on it cause he set it to shift in the mid to upper 6k range which I don't like. So when I turn that back down, what rpm should I set it to shift at? Thanks for any info
If everything go's well in the rebuild and I get her up and running soon, what do you guys think it can do in the 1/8th strip? I know a lot of you guys run 1/4 but the only 1/4 close to me is 200+ miles away lol. And I really wish the previous owner hadn't bought the Hypertech programmer he put on it cause he set it to shift in the mid to upper 6k range which I don't like. So when I turn that back down, what rpm should I set it to shift at? Thanks for any info
#2
Unless the bottom end is showing significant signs that its life is coming to an end I wouldn't touch it. Just redo the head gaskets and call it a day. Many times a stock rebuild like what you're talking about can be a step in the wrong direction, especially if you have a low budget.
I would also ditch the Hypertech altogether and put the money you would have spent on the bottom end into some real worthwhile mods like a tune, full exhaust, suspension, etc.
I would also ditch the Hypertech altogether and put the money you would have spent on the bottom end into some real worthwhile mods like a tune, full exhaust, suspension, etc.
#3
My 95 Formula M6 spun most of the way through first and ran a 9.5 @ 76 mph w/ a K&N filter and a bad opti at my local 1/8th about 3 months back. As far as shifting it in the 1/8th, just do it manually. Drop the shifter all the way down to 1 and then go up through them manually. LT1s usually start to dip around 3600 then really start to run out of breath around 4500 rpm. When equipped with a CAI and a catback, you can see about 290 rwtq as early as 2400 rpm but by 4k it's down 20 then down to about 240 by 5500. As far as rwhp, it's about 100 at 1k and climbs to about 260 at 5200. Although, those are M6 numbers so your A4 will see a little more lost in the drivetrain because of the slushbox. Nothing a good tune can't fix.
#4
I was running 9.0 @80-81 stock. Then moved the shift point to 6000 and was in the 8.7 range @82. Are u keeping it stock or a cam and supporting mods? Does it have a cam now? Dont know why someone would raise the shift points or the limiter in the mid6k range on a stock cam. Would really be pointless unless they just wanted to move it up and out of the way. Set it to 5800, by the time it shifts u will be at 6k. Just my .02
#5
Right now the car has BBK shorty headers, really crappy flowmasters and exhaust work that I cut off, was told it had larger injectors (I don't know how to tell stock from aftermarket), a K&N CAI that I also don't like because the filter is like a foot off the ground. And also the previous owner said the transmission only has 10,000 miles. But other than that everything is stock. Stock cam. And the guy probably thought it would be faster if he did that.
But you guys really don't think a rebuild is necessary? With almost 200,000 miles and a terrible lifter tick, I assumed it would be the best thing for it. Because afterwards I was planning on getting a cam and then eventually LE1 or LE2 heads. So if I didn't rebuild it, I would probably get a cam and a tune
But you guys really don't think a rebuild is necessary? With almost 200,000 miles and a terrible lifter tick, I assumed it would be the best thing for it. Because afterwards I was planning on getting a cam and then eventually LE1 or LE2 heads. So if I didn't rebuild it, I would probably get a cam and a tune
#6
You should be fine with rebuilding only the top end. I say do rollers while you're in there. Mine is at 163k, stock internals, driven hard daily with occasional weekend strip use and nary a problem from it. I've even missed a few shifts (2-1 instead of 2-3 at about 72 mph, something like 8400 rpm according to a gear calculator ) resulting in major overrevs and Mr. Sleepy still runs like a scared bastard from his step-daddy.
Fcking hate slowmasters, getting the ones the prior owner put on replaced with Borla as soon as I have the money. I say drop the shorties for LTs. Good for about 10 hp, future performance support, and better sound.
Fcking hate slowmasters, getting the ones the prior owner put on replaced with Borla as soon as I have the money. I say drop the shorties for LTs. Good for about 10 hp, future performance support, and better sound.
Last edited by DisasterFormula; 06-19-2012 at 01:19 PM.
#7
Haha I hate flowmasters too. I just gave them to a friend after cutting them off. I do need to figure out how I should run the exhaust though. The headers come down, then the piping go's to the right of the car into a single pipe that was ran all the way back into one flowmaster, then into the second flowmaster that has the tips coming out of it. Idk if that's stock or not.
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#9
Haha I hate flowmasters too. I just gave them to a friend after cutting them off. I do need to figure out how I should run the exhaust though. The headers come down, then the piping go's to the right of the car into a single pipe that was ran all the way back into one flowmaster, then into the second flowmaster that has the tips coming out of it. Idk if that's stock or not.
#10
Lmao I know! Its retarded. And yeah, enough white smoke comes out that it was coming out both tips lol Something was wrong with the last guy. Or he just didn't care about the car. The only reason he had to get rid of it, was because his wife was scared of him getting killed in it. He got it too sideways in a burnout and clipped a tree (you should see the passenger side that I have to fix) In the three years he had it I'm pretty sure he didn't change the oil once cause it was absolutely disgusting when I changed it and looked at it
#11
If I did get a cam, what would you recommend with the mileage and everything? Once I do get it up and running right, I'll probably take the insurance off my other car and make this my daily driver. So it would be driven every day anywhere from 10-100 miles depending on what I'm doing. I was thinking a cc305 maybe cc306?
#13
I just traded my fourwheeler even for it lol. It was a 2006 yamaha raptor 350 which is basically just a warrior. I had that thing for sale for a year but no one wants a racing fourwheeler under 400cc so when that guy said he was interested I took it lol
#14
If i was you id change heads gaskets. Sell those injectors and find some stock 1s. Sell shorties and pick up some long tubes. You pickup the ebay 1s for around 300 with the ypipe. Buy a cam and spring kit. The cc503 would be perfect. Pick up some 1.6rr. Ditch the hypercrap tuner and get a mail order tune. As far as exhaust i would throw of those flowmasters on the end of the ypipe with a turn down. It be loud but it will sound good.
#17
Also I need to get a water pump. I've read a lot about electric ones freeing up some horsepower. Would this water pump from Jegs be worth it since I need one anyway? The wiring harness from them is like $25 http://www.jegs.com/i/CSR/170/901LT1/10002/-1?CT=999
#19
Wow lol. I can't wait to get this thing on the street then. Ill probably be pulling the heads off this weekend and just clean them up and get some gaskets. Then look into a water pump