LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

cc503!

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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #21  
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Okay I went to both comps website and summit. If I buy from comp plus the parts they recommend the total is $1126.67. Their site recommended lifters, timing set, push rods, valve springs, valve seals, retainers, and valve locks.
The total from summit was $715.70 which included only rocker arms, valve springs, and valve seals. So what do you guys think? I probably won't buy the lifters as my car only has 110k on it.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #22  
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Alright guys, so far I have the cam listed at 296.95, patriot springs, retainers, locks, bases,and seals for 275.99. What else is necessary? I'll prologue hold off on rocker arms too for now.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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I think youd be stupid not to get lifters. You may not need them, But do you really want to find out the hard way?

A cc503 does not need those patriot springs, I assume your looking at the 8401's. I run 8401's on my 226/232 .606/.603 108lsa, a cc503 is quite a bit smaller and more tame! Basically they are kind of overkill for a cc503. I would run Alexs springs heres a link, but you will need new valve seals to go with it, which are 15-20$.

http://www.alexsparts.com/lt1-valve-...rs-locks-cups/

Now that youve saved 175$ on springs you dont need anyways, you can get new LS7/GM oem lifters. they are about 125-150$.

Hopefully thats some good advice.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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Thanks for the advice trilkb! I was actually looking at the 8501's but I also keeping in mind alex's. What about a timing set?
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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And if I were to go with ls7 lifters, wouldn't I need different pushrods too?
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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I look at lifters this way, If you had no plans to go into the motor to change them because they were working fine then there is no reason to change them during the cam change provided they look good. The lifters do not know if they are on the same old cam or a new cam. Those lifters may have gone 200k on the old cam, that is 90k more on them with the new cam.
I say don't fix something if it's not broke.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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the 8501s are on back order for 6-8 months... they are way overkill on that mild cam. the 8401s are avail and should be good for your build but they are not on the cheapside either.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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deffinetly no need for 8501's, I wasnt saying 8401's wont work, you just dont NEED them. You can get a spring that will work just as good, for cheaper, so why not do it lol. It also opens up some money for parts that you DEFINETLY should replace. Patriot makes a good product, I was going to run 8501 but needed another .050 clearance and didnt want to run +.050 locks or have spring pockets machined. the 8501's wouldve been way to much seat pressure for ls7 lifters at my installed height. Im actually damn close to coil bind on the 8401's, but they have held up.

As far as pushrods, you can get trickflow chromemolys for pretty cheap.

Another thing I learned is that you dont need to waste time or money on a shim kit if your heads are stock.

Last edited by trilkb; Jul 4, 2012 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:46 AM
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Can I use the stock timing timing chain and everything?
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by KyleW707
Can I use the stock timing timing chain and everything?
Yes but if it's original and high miles I would get a new chain
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KyleW707
Okay I went to both comps website and summit. If I buy from comp plus the parts they recommend the total is $1126.67. Their site recommended lifters, timing set, push rods, valve springs, valve seals, retainers, and valve locks.
The total from summit was $715.70 which included only rocker arms, valve springs, and valve seals. So what do you guys think? I probably won't buy the lifters as my car only has 110k on it.
If you are willing to spend this kind of money why not go with qn LE1 setup. If im not mistaken for heads ported and fully built with stock valves, ported intake, and a choice between 2 custom grind cams you will spenf less than 1500 bucks.


Posted from LS1Tech.com App for Android
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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new oem replacement chain is like 13$...another part youd be stupid not to replace!
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:47 AM
  #33  
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Why are you so set on 503, it may spin the bottom end to high. I think I am going 502, I was considering the 503 as well, but I am not touching the bottom end. There pretty close just a bit less if I am not mistaken, just the 502 you dont have to worry about spinning the engine.
I am commenting I am looking to do the similar as OP, but will replace everything. LE1 as mentioned before would be good, but it doesnt not include the RR and springs correct? What is the OPs budget?
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #34  
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http://elliottsportworks.com/home/?page_id=51
Heres the link to the Lloyd Elliot LE1 setup.
They do come with upgraded springs but no RRs. For 1400 bucks you send him your heads and he ports them, ports your intake fully, and you have a choice between 2 cams the bigger cam will have a lot higher chance of spinning the bottom end. Hes a cool guy if you choose to use this setup he will talk to you personally and tell you what your power ranges and pros/cons wil be.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #35  
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Last year I used a cc503 with my LT1 with a better bottom end and boltons. That was a FANTASIC cam, great power everywhere, good gas mileage, great driveability. It's a great cam for anyone who doesn't want a lope and still wants to make good power. Since I have gone to set of ported heads and a new custom cam from Lloyd Elliot. Quite a bit faster but the gas mileage and driveability suffer. Still not too bad though. The 503 will not spin the bottom end too high.... It's all about the driver, you don't have to let the engine redline everytime you shift if you know it's going to blow the bottom end. Shift before 6400 rpms and your good. That's maxed on the 503's powerband anyways....
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #36  
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My buddy had a BONE STOCK 97 z with 180k on it he installed Pacesetter LTs,3" ypipe,magnaflow cat back, madtuner tune,vig3600,3.42 rear(had 2.73s) 52mm TB..the car ran 13.8 up here in Vegas with 3000' DA He then added the 503 cam and springs went back to the track and ran 12.77 3600'DA and the drivers side header was hitting the floor on the shifts causing the knock sensor to retard the timing..... GREAT CAM I feel put it in and be happy.
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #37  
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Well I already ordered the cam, I don't wanna go with le1 because I plan on eventually selling it so I don't want to do anything to drastic. And I didn't state it before but my car is automotic. My car will only be driven a couple times a month, and never see the track except maybe once just to see where it stands. Other than that I don't think I have to worry about the bottom end not holding up.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:39 PM
  #38  
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Well it all starts tomorrow! I'll be getting into town hopefully No later than 11 pm and will be in the shop shortly after. I plan on staying there as much as possible until saturday night. Any last minute tips/advice for the install? Tips or tricks that you all have came across during personal experience?
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:14 AM
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You probably already know this but stay clean and organized, label EVERYTHING, lots of small tuperware containers to hold bolts as well as sharpies and masking tape to label wires and the containers. Theres nothing worse than finishing and then looking at your workbench and having 3 or 4 extra bolts sitting there...
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #40  
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Well, got to the shop around midnight, had the car tore down by 2:30 am. Wake up this morning and come to find out, my spring kit, and seals that Alex said would be here by thursday, arent here. Looks like i'll have to wait until im back in town to finish my car the first weekend of August unless somehow my parts magically show up today. talk about bummer, u was looking forward to this for the past two weeks.
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