BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

So after spinning some bearings in my car about a month ago I finally have the motor out, and to my surprise it's actually a 4 bolt instead of 2. While we know for sure bearings 7 and 8 are spun, we don't know about the rods or crank being hurt, the motor goes to the machine shop tomorrow for full tear down and inspection.

The plan
Going to pick up a set of LE1 heads with Lloyd's 224/230 .573/.568 112 LSA. cam. We are going to run a stock stall with 3:73's(already in the car) probably going to send the intake out to AI and have it ported to work with a 58mm tb and flow a bit more to match the heads. I already have a SLP LM2 on the car, it's getting Pacesetter LT's and ORY, full A/C, AIR, EGR delete as well.

Now if the crank is hurt we will look into putting an Eagle 383 setup in it, or a 355. The goal with the car is to run a stock stall and 3:73's and make close to 400whp on 93 pump. The car will just a summer daily driver with an occasional trip to the track with drag radials on it.

I'll update this as we get new parts and info, but i'm curious to hear what everyone thinks, or if it's just overkill.

93 LT1 Vette

Sounds like a good street motor and part time track car. Since the motor is out, I'd go with a good streetable converter and some forged slugs incase nitrous becomes an opinion. I'd like to hear more about the LE1 heads after she's running again. I think they will be my next mod this fall.

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

While the car is in my hands it will never see juice or boost, but we just put a trans and new converter in the car so that's why it's not getting one.

It's kinda something you don't see to often, a stock stall build.

WS Sick

If you have spun bearings the big ends of those rods are in need of work, at least have the rods magged and resized with new bolts.

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

Thats the plan, it's getting fully checked out so we know for sure what is all hurt. Since it got hot I would guess it probably hurt those 2 rods, but we will see. Regardless I think we are going to see about getting a deal on some Eagle I beam's.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Looks like a good little combo but with an auto i think its going to be hard to hit your 400rwhp goal. If your looking to hit that mark for sure you need to upgrade to the LE2s. Id also try and bump the compression up as high you can safetly get it roughly 11.5-12:1. The little small boltons also add up aswell like Electric Waterpump and reduction pulleys. That motor for the street would be awesome as it will make great torque and powerband. Once you start upping the cam your powerband starts to go up and then it becomes a dog on the street and more of a strip motor. You just have to weigh your odds and know what you want to do with the car.

Look at my sig below with basically the same LE cam and my ported AFR 190s which flow huge and im a 6spd. I dynod 376/377 last year with some issues. I just did the EFI 24x and fixing up my valvetrain to make a full pull to 6500 which should net me in the 390-400rwhp area. Love the motor and powerband it has for the street. Suprises alot of LSx's and Cobras

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

So really I'll be on par with what I want out of the car, a fun DD that should run 12's easy. The goal was to hit 400whp, but if it makes 375 I'd be really happy.

So the parts list a little more simplified here.

LE1 H/C combo 224/230 .573/.568 112 LSA
AI Street/Strip ported intake to work with a 58mm TB or Monoblade
BBK 58mm TB
AI 36LB injectors
Pacesetter LT's ORY
Eagle 383 Rotating assembly (pistons unknown) not sure what relief to run to get near 11.5 comp ration on pump gas. Will probably go cast, unless we get a deal on a 4340 setup.
PCMforless tune, safe rev limit of 6200.

From all my research on here and other sites, and what others have done that combo should net good numbers. While being able to DD the car and not worry about it having bogging issues and such.

lt1-xjs

Running the stock stall with a cam will be annoying and a huge waste of time.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on the 4 bolt discovery. Have a couple suggestions, do with them as you please.

Why send your heads to LE and your intake to AI? LE does intake work too, and if you send him everything he will port match the intake to the heads, where as AI will just give you a shot in the dark of what LE's heads look like.

2 reasons why I would stay stock stroke with this build:
1. LE1s will be a bit small for a 383, and that 224/230 cam as well
2. I would not even remotely consider using a cast 3.75" crank over the stock crank. If your stock crank is trashed and you dont want to drop the $$ for 4340, pick up a used one from the classifieds.

If you will never spray or boost this motor, why not go .060 over instead of .030? Swirl equals torque, and that extra 0.030 will help deshroud the valves and promote swirl. It gives you an extra 5ci, and if you are already buying new slugs and having it bored, it wont cost you any extra. Scat or eagle I beam rods are pretty cheap, and you could use hyperutectic pistons instead of forged and save some money if you know you will never spray. You are going down the EXACT same road that I plan on going this winter.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000P/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-9908HCKTM060/

I dont know much about optimal piston weight so someone might have a better suggestion but those keith black pistons are about half as much as a budget forged piston.

Anyway, my $0.02

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

I missed the fact that LE does intake work, but I like suggestions it does help expand on what i'm learning while I do this for sure.

I have 2 plans in mind and parts can vary slightly for each as needed.

1. if the stock crank is fine, just punch it to a 355 with new rods etc etc and be content around 360-80whp
2. hurt crank, buy a good 383 rotating from eagle not cast the 4340 stuff.

then finding out what piston dish to run and all is the next step.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Yea LE's website says its $200 for the intake portwork.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Another vote for foolishly keeping the stock stall. Big mistake there...

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

I've voted for putting a stall in the car, and my dad is helping me build the car as it will end up being his later on. He does not want to put a stall in it, as we just put a brand new converter in maybe 2 months ago.

On another note, what size stall would be ideal since I've not looked into it at all? My guess is somewhere from 2500-3200?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Talk your dad out of using the stock stall. The thing is going to be miserable to drive. Just because he put a new one in 2 months ago doesn't mean it was the right one. To do it right sometimes you have to learn from your mistakes and re-do it.

For stall RPM I wouldn't use anything less than a 3600. You'd still get decent drivability but the thing will be a monster out of the hole.

FAD2BLK93

X2 on the 3600

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

Hmm good food for thought, i'll have to check out some different stalls and see what I can find. I'll probably keep my eye on the classifieds too. All we did was put an oe stall back in the car with a low mile trans. Not having OD sucked for a while.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Im sure you could sell your practically brand new stall to someone who is looking to go back to stock, put it in the classifieds when you pull it.

BoostedDSM

iTrader: (6)

It's already out, just still sitting with the trans still. Any brands to stay away from for a stall? One area of automotive i have no experience with.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If money is the issue leave the intake as cast and buy a stall instead. Hell if money is that tight buy a good stall instead of the heads and intake work.

BALLSS

you won't hit 12's with the stock stall. Your 60' will be 2.5....2.2 at the very best

even if the motor makes 400 rwhp

with that said I am one who likes lower stalls since 95+% of driving is not 1/4 mi.

a solid 355 build using forged slugs, stock polished or .010 under crank (if you scuffed it), LE heads and cam with a modest 2600 stall you could "touch" 12's. Higher stall willl get you even quicker 1/4 times but I suggest you drive something in the 3600 neighborhood first to see if you are cool with it's street maners. What may be acceptable to some may not be something you like

Yank, Edge, Vigalante (Precision) are a few companies many use for TC

also anything above 2600...add a external tranny cooler