383 LT1 Advice
383 LT1 Advice Hey guys,Im currently eying this 383 LT1 thats for sale here locally and Im really considering buying it since the guy is asking 2300 for it,and that would save me a lot of money and time,over building my stock LT1 thats already in my TA. Thought I would run the general specs of the motor by you guys and see if you guys think its a good deal or not..
The block has been cleaned, new freeze plugs, bored .030 over, block decked, cut out for rod clearance. Has eagle Rods (cast),hypert. KB pistons dished 2 valve relief, eagle crank (cast), new bearings, New water pump drive and oil pump drive, high volume Meiling oil pump. New timing chain. the cam he ordered is from Lloyd Elliot, its a comp cams custom grinded lift .603/.608 duration 232/236, Comp Cams full roller rockers 1.5, Beehive springs, New Fly wheel.It's already balanced as well.
The heads, have been milled down, new stainless steel valves, new seals, 3 angle valve job.
He also has all the receipts for the parts and machine shop.
So really the only thing I see that I would need to do is buy 1.6RR's,and get the intake manifold openings ported to 58mm. Im a little iffy on it having cast rods and hyper pistons,since with my own build I wanted to have those forged,and I know the stock connecting rods are powdered metal,isnt that stronger than cast? So cast rods would be a downgrade..If I plan on staying naturally aspirated do you guys think having them cast would be an issue?
The block has been cleaned, new freeze plugs, bored .030 over, block decked, cut out for rod clearance. Has eagle Rods (cast),hypert. KB pistons dished 2 valve relief, eagle crank (cast), new bearings, New water pump drive and oil pump drive, high volume Meiling oil pump. New timing chain. the cam he ordered is from Lloyd Elliot, its a comp cams custom grinded lift .603/.608 duration 232/236, Comp Cams full roller rockers 1.5, Beehive springs, New Fly wheel.It's already balanced as well.
The heads, have been milled down, new stainless steel valves, new seals, 3 angle valve job.
He also has all the receipts for the parts and machine shop.
So really the only thing I see that I would need to do is buy 1.6RR's,and get the intake manifold openings ported to 58mm. Im a little iffy on it having cast rods and hyper pistons,since with my own build I wanted to have those forged,and I know the stock connecting rods are powdered metal,isnt that stronger than cast? So cast rods would be a downgrade..If I plan on staying naturally aspirated do you guys think having them cast would be an issue?
Last edited by FormulaTA96; Jul 14, 2012 at 12:22 PM.
Eagle's cast stroker cranks have a notorious reputation for breaking and hyperucraptic pistons are a wast of time and I bet it has the Eagle SIR rods which are junk as well that's why 96capricemgr is telling you to run the other way.
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Verdad Gallardo I was very iffy about all of the cast and hyper parts from the beginning.Thanks for all of the advice guys,I know a lot of you have tried and proven experience with 383 builds,so I appreciate it.
Run, to many corners cut and to many uninformed choices made in build.
Highvol/highpress oil pumps eat pump drive gears, cast eagle cranks become 2pcs and a a biscuit, hyper pistons don't like mistakes in fueling and power..
Take that money and make a better performing And stable H/C 355.
Highvol/highpress oil pumps eat pump drive gears, cast eagle cranks become 2pcs and a a biscuit, hyper pistons don't like mistakes in fueling and power..
Take that money and make a better performing And stable H/C 355.
Agreed Stay away from that boat anchor Get a shortblock & build it with the good stuff Might take a lil longer but you wont worry about is it gonna break when you nail it!!! Atleast Forged SCAT or Compstar stuff with Diamond or JE pistons Better would be Callies Dragonslayer crank , & forged rods or a set of Howards Billet rods My crank ,rods & bearings were 2065 shipped That should tell ya about that "cast" motor lol
