So after using the search function all night...here's my combo
#41
I've said this before and caught some flack for it BUT in my experience a 10 bolt in good condition or one that is well built will live if it's kept on street tires. Street tires just don't have the traction to load the rear enough to blow it up (at least at my power level). I am running older all season Conti Extreme Contacts, next spring I'm getting the summer version of this tire.
He never actually killed his 10 bolt. He runs a Moser 12 bolt only because he got a steal on one.
BTW, get the 3 season Conti Extremes. I am normally all about BFGs and Goodyears...I bought these on a whim through Discount Tire on eBay. I paid $600 for a set of 4 275/40s. Best tire purchase ever, hands down. These things are awesome...
#43
if I was you I wouldn't worry about the rear atm. replace it with what you want when it blows. mine will go soon and I plan on just picking up a used torsen 3.73 out of an auto LS until that blows again then I figure I'll be ready to upgrade to an S60 w/ 3.90's cause a) its not a drag car and b) I like the high mpg's I get in 6th.
also being in MA and OBD2 we still have some emission requirements but nothing that can't be defeated by a tune. I ditched AIR, EGR and rear o2's as I'm going to replace my high flo cat with one of these> http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...ac522116478330
if you don't want the catless smell I'll sell you mine if you like, its only got 1 season on it. I also have a spare set of 643 heads in my garage which are perfectly fine for LE2 or equivalent porting. its when you go bigger that the 374's are really desirable. 150 is what I paid for the cores I bought so lemme know if your interested.
as far as fueling def get a new FP like a walboro and you might want to upgrade your injectors as well, I picked up a set of SVO 30# red tops off here for cheap in the classifieds.
contact slohawk and see if he'll work on your LT1, hes the only reputable fbody orientated shop around here that I know of... tho LT1's aren't his favorite
also being in MA and OBD2 we still have some emission requirements but nothing that can't be defeated by a tune. I ditched AIR, EGR and rear o2's as I'm going to replace my high flo cat with one of these> http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...ac522116478330
if you don't want the catless smell I'll sell you mine if you like, its only got 1 season on it. I also have a spare set of 643 heads in my garage which are perfectly fine for LE2 or equivalent porting. its when you go bigger that the 374's are really desirable. 150 is what I paid for the cores I bought so lemme know if your interested.
as far as fueling def get a new FP like a walboro and you might want to upgrade your injectors as well, I picked up a set of SVO 30# red tops off here for cheap in the classifieds.
contact slohawk and see if he'll work on your LT1, hes the only reputable fbody orientated shop around here that I know of... tho LT1's aren't his favorite
2) The LT1 heads, however, I will PM you about soon. I definitely want a second set...20 years from now, if I wanna make this thing stock for some unknown reason, I want all my original equipment to be able to throw back on.
3) There seems to be some disagreement here. Do I need bigger injectors? Fuel pump? Some say yes to injectors, no to everything else. Others have said I don't even need injectors.
This part confuses me more than anything. As for Slohawk, I thought about him, as he isn't that far away...but I noticed his site has no LT info
#44
#45
I'd imagine if you were running a stroker with more cam, then you'd need them, but for the fairly mild build you're doing, the stock 24lb/hr injectors should be enough IMO.
#46
I'd go 3.42s with MT ET streets 26x10.5r16 on those stock rims you have, the 3.42s have less(thicker) teeth, and the bias ply ET streets will give much more cushion on launch and powershifting at the track than drag radials. It's a rule of thumb, auto: drag radials, m6: bias ply
Also, with 370 rwhp and 3600lb race weight which is looking like where you will be with your build, you will easily beat the 350rwhp 4100lb race weight ls3 powered m6 5th gen, and CRUSH the l99 powered auto 5th gens
Also, with 370 rwhp and 3600lb race weight which is looking like where you will be with your build, you will easily beat the 350rwhp 4100lb race weight ls3 powered m6 5th gen, and CRUSH the l99 powered auto 5th gens
#47
Mike V is quik95lt1 on this forum. he is in Cranston RI and dosen;t have his own shop but has has taken orders to build shortblocks for members. He is a smahht basterd and a great builder. His car speaks for itself. 9 sec NA LT1. You can try pming him he might do the work on your car.
He will be tuning my car next year.
He will be tuning my car next year.
#48
i say go big or go home here in RI if you are OBDII you dont go on the sniffer all they do is plug into the ecm and look for it to pass tests.........i run my ls2 gto i drive every day with a 226/234 .600 112lsa AI cam and hollowed out cats......passed inspection just fine they plugged in and the ecm didn't have any codes......little did they know i just shut them all off the maf wasn't even plugged in lol...........back to my go big or go home satement id run the AI 200cc head program with the 226/234 cam if it were me, swap out the stock high mileage lifters for some ls7's and replace the timing chain.........but again........thats me lol
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiL...Kits.php#LT200
basically run this......its got everything included, heads, springs, retiner, locks, pushrods, rockers, studs, guideplates, all gaskets, ls7 lifters, head bolts, its all there ready to go.....
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiL...Kits.php#LT200
basically run this......its got everything included, heads, springs, retiner, locks, pushrods, rockers, studs, guideplates, all gaskets, ls7 lifters, head bolts, its all there ready to go.....
Last edited by quik95lt1; 09-20-2012 at 07:36 AM.
#49
^^Mike,
Thanks for the input...after spending another night on the internet (this **** is addictive when you start, and there's so much to learn!!), I have decided the AI 200cc kit is my best option. Any personal advice on tuning options, and fuel delivery? I can't seem to come up with a straight answer on injectors/fuel pump. Is Madtuner my best option, in lieu of there being no real dyno shops I've come across yet?
For everyone else, thanks again very much. I plan to call LE and AI within the next week, but I think I will be going with AI. I really need to talk to them about cam specs...I like Mike's "go big or go home" thought process, as that's where I started. At the same point, I plan to drive this car for fun a good 5k miles next year...as I have the feeling once I get this thing back, I'm gonna wanna enjoy it
I think I'm ditching the 4.10 idea at this point, and will revisit it if/when the 10 bolt breaks. bufmat, thanks for the info on E/T streets vs. DRs...I did not know that. I think a 3.42/ET Street combo is probably best for me. I know 4.10s would be fun, but if the above was true, 4 MPG loss is not worth it.
On that note, how much MPG will I be losing with Mike's proposed engine setup, sticking with 3.42s? I know its hard to estimate, and its secondary to the goal here...but I am curious to hear from those that have been down a similar road.
Thanks for the input...after spending another night on the internet (this **** is addictive when you start, and there's so much to learn!!), I have decided the AI 200cc kit is my best option. Any personal advice on tuning options, and fuel delivery? I can't seem to come up with a straight answer on injectors/fuel pump. Is Madtuner my best option, in lieu of there being no real dyno shops I've come across yet?
For everyone else, thanks again very much. I plan to call LE and AI within the next week, but I think I will be going with AI. I really need to talk to them about cam specs...I like Mike's "go big or go home" thought process, as that's where I started. At the same point, I plan to drive this car for fun a good 5k miles next year...as I have the feeling once I get this thing back, I'm gonna wanna enjoy it
I think I'm ditching the 4.10 idea at this point, and will revisit it if/when the 10 bolt breaks. bufmat, thanks for the info on E/T streets vs. DRs...I did not know that. I think a 3.42/ET Street combo is probably best for me. I know 4.10s would be fun, but if the above was true, 4 MPG loss is not worth it.
On that note, how much MPG will I be losing with Mike's proposed engine setup, sticking with 3.42s? I know its hard to estimate, and its secondary to the goal here...but I am curious to hear from those that have been down a similar road.
#50
^^Mike,
Thanks for the input...after spending another night on the internet (this **** is addictive when you start, and there's so much to learn!!), I have decided the AI 200cc kit is my best option. Any personal advice on tuning options, and fuel delivery? I can't seem to come up with a straight answer on injectors/fuel pump. Is Madtuner my best option, in lieu of there being no real dyno shops I've come across yet?
For everyone else, thanks again very much. I plan to call LE and AI within the next week, but I think I will be going with AI. I really need to talk to them about cam specs...I like Mike's "go big or go home" thought process, as that's where I started. At the same point, I plan to drive this car for fun a good 5k miles next year...as I have the feeling once I get this thing back, I'm gonna wanna enjoy it
I think I'm ditching the 4.10 idea at this point, and will revisit it if/when the 10 bolt breaks. bufmat, thanks for the info on E/T streets vs. DRs...I did not know that. I think a 3.42/ET Street combo is probably best for me. I know 4.10s would be fun, but if the above was true, 4 MPG loss is not worth it.
On that note, how much MPG will I be losing with Mike's proposed engine setup, sticking with 3.42s? I know its hard to estimate, and its secondary to the goal here...but I am curious to hear from those that have been down a similar road.
Thanks for the input...after spending another night on the internet (this **** is addictive when you start, and there's so much to learn!!), I have decided the AI 200cc kit is my best option. Any personal advice on tuning options, and fuel delivery? I can't seem to come up with a straight answer on injectors/fuel pump. Is Madtuner my best option, in lieu of there being no real dyno shops I've come across yet?
For everyone else, thanks again very much. I plan to call LE and AI within the next week, but I think I will be going with AI. I really need to talk to them about cam specs...I like Mike's "go big or go home" thought process, as that's where I started. At the same point, I plan to drive this car for fun a good 5k miles next year...as I have the feeling once I get this thing back, I'm gonna wanna enjoy it
I think I'm ditching the 4.10 idea at this point, and will revisit it if/when the 10 bolt breaks. bufmat, thanks for the info on E/T streets vs. DRs...I did not know that. I think a 3.42/ET Street combo is probably best for me. I know 4.10s would be fun, but if the above was true, 4 MPG loss is not worth it.
On that note, how much MPG will I be losing with Mike's proposed engine setup, sticking with 3.42s? I know its hard to estimate, and its secondary to the goal here...but I am curious to hear from those that have been down a similar road.
#52
#53
#54
#55
I know you mentioned a $5000 limit in the beginning of the thread, has that budget expanded? The AI kit is going to come out to $3100 after taxes and shipping, and you still need headers with a catted Y pipe ($700 at least because cats are expensive, I dont know why you want cats though), tune ($3-400), Ford SVO 30lb injectors ($300), a set of stock castings and intake ($250), $400 intake porting, clutch ($300 if you go with a Competition clutches stage 2.5), ET streets ($400), AND you were talking about having someone else do the labor, which will probably be at least 16 hours (low estimate), at $100 an hour (high estimate).
What you are doing is what I WISH I could do to my car, I would go with the 226/234 cam also. Good luck with your build, Im excited to see how daily driveable it really is with this power level.
If you are really confined to that $5000 budget, this kit might be better for you
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
With some 0.026" head gaskets and the 226/234 cam, one guy made over 360rwhp with just that kit. You would be leaving about 40-50 horsepower on the table by not getting the heads, but you would save $2000, and you could always add it later. You also wouldnt need injectors because the stock 24s would be ok for this level, or the $400 intake porting, or the castings, so you save almost $3000, PLUS the reduced installation cost.
*edit* he made 370rwhp, here is his thread, dont mind his track numbers, at sea level with ET streets that would be a solid 11 second car.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
What you are doing is what I WISH I could do to my car, I would go with the 226/234 cam also. Good luck with your build, Im excited to see how daily driveable it really is with this power level.
If you are really confined to that $5000 budget, this kit might be better for you
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
With some 0.026" head gaskets and the 226/234 cam, one guy made over 360rwhp with just that kit. You would be leaving about 40-50 horsepower on the table by not getting the heads, but you would save $2000, and you could always add it later. You also wouldnt need injectors because the stock 24s would be ok for this level, or the $400 intake porting, or the castings, so you save almost $3000, PLUS the reduced installation cost.
*edit* he made 370rwhp, here is his thread, dont mind his track numbers, at sea level with ET streets that would be a solid 11 second car.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 09-21-2012 at 08:24 AM.
#56
I know you mentioned a $5000 limit in the beginning of the thread, has that budget expanded? The AI kit is going to come out to $3100 after taxes and shipping, and you still need headers with a catted Y pipe ($700 at least because cats are expensive, I dont know why you want cats though), tune ($3-400), Ford SVO 30lb injectors ($300), a set of stock castings and intake ($250), $400 intake porting, clutch ($300 if you go with a Competition clutches stage 2.5), ET streets ($400), AND you were talking about having someone else do the labor, which will probably be at least 16 hours (low estimate), at $100 an hour (high estimate).
What you are doing is what I WISH I could do to my car, I would go with the 226/234 cam also. Good luck with your build, Im excited to see how daily driveable it really is with this power level.
If you are really confined to that $5000 budget, this kit might be better for you
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
With some 0.026" head gaskets and the 226/234 cam, one guy made over 360rwhp with just that kit. You would be leaving about 40-50 horsepower on the table by not getting the heads, but you would save $2000, and you could always add it later.
What you are doing is what I WISH I could do to my car, I would go with the 226/234 cam also. Good luck with your build, Im excited to see how daily driveable it really is with this power level.
If you are really confined to that $5000 budget, this kit might be better for you
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
With some 0.026" head gaskets and the 226/234 cam, one guy made over 360rwhp with just that kit. You would be leaving about 40-50 horsepower on the table by not getting the heads, but you would save $2000, and you could always add it later.
226/234 p0rn> https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
edit:^lol beat me to it!
double edit: jason come join http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/f...splay.php?f=30
Last edited by z_speedfreak; 09-21-2012 at 08:28 AM.
#57
used used used! I picked up my SVO's for $150, freshly coated pacesetters for $250, if he wanted my cat $50, Josh(STOCKTA) could port his intake for less(forget what he charges), solomon(LT1pcmtuning.com) does killer tunes for $180.. so figure maybe $950ish roughly (cause I'm not sure about Josh's rate) as opposed to $1700 for those items.. but labor is gonna be the killer.
226/234 p0rn> https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
edit:^lol beat me to it!
double edit: jason come join http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/f...splay.php?f=30
226/234 p0rn> https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ery-happy.html
edit:^lol beat me to it!
double edit: jason come join http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/f...splay.php?f=30
Either way, of all of the grinds Ive seen people use across this board, that AI 226/234 is the **** IMO.
#58
used engine parts aren't gonna take away from how clean his car is, either way if he wants all that stuff done and has a $5000 budget hes gonna have to find some bargains. theres always those LPP header ebay knock offs too
#59
If budget is a concern I would skip intake porting. As it says on the intake porting page the 190-200cc heads come corrected for geometry already.
I would not have a car that modified unless I could do the work myself.
I would not have a car that modified unless I could do the work myself.
#60
In all reality if you are not going to do the work yourself and are just looking for the finished product, I would sell your clean car, and buy ramair95TA's car. Its already done with a AI 200cc heads/cam and a forged 383 with about everything else you could do to it. Just swap it to a 6 speed and your good to go.