bigmonk72

I just rebuilt the LT1 out of my 1995 Z28 and i can't seem to get the damn thing to run on all eight cylinders. I did do some modifications. I put in the GM hot cam, 1.6 roller rockers, a 1650 torque converter, headers from TPIS, new Accel distributor, Accel 30lb injectors, new radiator, BBK throttle body, new air horn, and i punched out the mesh screen for the MAF. Also i eliminated the air pump and the EGR and got the computer programmed by TPIS. After i got the computer back the car was running on only seven cylinders. I used a laser thermometer and determined that the #2 cylinder was the one that was missing. after checking the spark at both the end of the spark plug wire and the spark plug itself i determined that ignition wasn't the problem. I was told to change the spark plugs to a more expensive plugs. (was running ACdelcos, changed to NGK's). when i removed the plugs i noticed that the whole drivers sides plugs looked burnt (like they had 100,000 miles on them) while the passenger side of the motor looked fine. I sent the computer, injectors, and spark plugs to TPIS to see if they could figure out the problem but they couldn't. i was wondering if any of you guys knew a solution or what might be causing the problem? any help would be great! (i really wanna drive it before winter)

nomoneyz

iTrader: (15)

I've heard that the accel optis aren't a good replacement. AC delco is the way to go. Also shouldn't have punched out the screen in the MAF. Other than that start checking ICM, coil, opti harness.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Accel is bad. The opti very unreliable and the injectors unnecessary at best.
TPIS is bad
descreenign the MAF is bad.
1650stall is I think LOWER that what you had stock thought the f-bodies were 1800, at any rate you should have gone with 2800+ 9.5" unit so that is wrong.
What Delco plugs did you have? If the NGKs were more expensive you must have done iridium or something? What heat range? A TR55 NGK would be about right

When you say the plugs looked bad were they black or was the metal burned away on the electrode/strap?
Number 2 not firing would cause fresh air in the exhaust which the pcm reads as a lean condition and dumps fuel to "compensate".

If you wanted to drive it before winter you needed to get competent advise before getting so far into this. At this point you have done more wrong than right and I hope you have the commitment and cash to allow us to help you sort it out.

Maybe give us a location so we can maybe find someone local to help