Hyper or forged pistons? N/A high compression E85
Hyper or forged pistons? N/A high compression E85 I've got 6" Scat ProComp rods, Forged Scat 3.75 crank, but trying to decide on pistons. I need the smallest volume possible for max compression. I have heard that hypers offer lighter weight and tighter clearances, which is what I will need for a 13.5-14 cr E85 N/A engine. Any reason not to go hyper?
Go forged. The tiny difference in cold bore clearance is not enough to matter.
The only time I'd use hyper pistons is if you're staying with the stock bore and re-using the stock ones. If buying new, it doesn't make sense. For a few dollars more, make it robust.
The only time I'd use hyper pistons is if you're staying with the stock bore and re-using the stock ones. If buying new, it doesn't make sense. For a few dollars more, make it robust.
The lowest quality forged piston is still better than the highest quality hyperutectic piston.. I may be going too far on this however it is what I have seen. The factory Lt1 pistons are hyperutectic and are decent especially compared to aftermarket hyper slugs.
Build a shortblock thinking about the future instal good quality parts built for longivity and you will have a very good foundation for many different combinations.....
Build a shortblock thinking about the future instal good quality parts built for longivity and you will have a very good foundation for many different combinations.....
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Batesville, AR
I think your question has already been answered but running hypers with that kind of compression is a little risky. A poorly made hypereutectic piston can develop a crack pretty easily. The higher silicon content makes the harder, but also more brittle.
I agree with above statements set your self up for the future! The fact that you're willing to run that aggressive of CR tells me you will push this motor to the edge so why not a lil more insurance!!
Ok, then what are some decent light forged pistons that won't break the bank? I can't seem to find weights on Summit. This is an autox/RR car, and also weekend fun-car, so I want it to be fast revving and last as well.
Last edited by kgkern01; Dec 7, 2012 at 02:06 PM.
Trending Topics
If your that worried about weight and high fast revving then look into an aluminum flywheel. Im running a forged felpro piston. IIRC there alittle heavier then stock pistons. However with how my engine revs out youd never suspect they were heavier.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
The wife's car has a set of Hyper's in it. I built it as a 383 Daily driver. Nothing Special just TRW coated pistons. I paid under a Grand for the whole Rotating. Shifting it at 6,400 she has been running 11.9s-12.0hs @ 3,600Lbs
IMO when building an engine I would jump right from stock to Mahle Powerpak/equivalent or better.
The Powerpak being 4032 instead of 2618 uses a tighter bore clearance for less noise and will handle "high mileage" better. My understanding is 2618 will wear out the ring grooves faster than a hypereutetic or 4032 piston.
When you look at features, weight, what is included the Mahle are not cheap but they are a good value and really that is what most of us should look for in a build. "cheap" nearly always cost more in the long run.
The Powerpak being 4032 instead of 2618 uses a tighter bore clearance for less noise and will handle "high mileage" better. My understanding is 2618 will wear out the ring grooves faster than a hypereutetic or 4032 piston.
When you look at features, weight, what is included the Mahle are not cheap but they are a good value and really that is what most of us should look for in a build. "cheap" nearly always cost more in the long run.
Forged.
Wow - I guess the Mayan calendar prophecies are correct and the world IS indeed coming to an end in a few short days, because I actually AGREE with "96capricemgr" and (adding to this Armageddon-like dilemma) he did NOT suggest that the OP use the stock parts!
I guess it's time for me to re-read the book of Daniel!
Wow - I guess the Mayan calendar prophecies are correct and the world IS indeed coming to an end in a few short days, because I actually AGREE with "96capricemgr" and (adding to this Armageddon-like dilemma) he did NOT suggest that the OP use the stock parts!
I guess it's time for me to re-read the book of Daniel!
IMO when building an engine I would jump right from stock to Mahle Powerpak/equivalent or better.
The Powerpak being 4032 instead of 2618 uses a tighter bore clearance for less noise and will handle "high mileage" better. My understanding is 2618 will wear out the ring grooves faster than a hypereutetic or 4032 piston.
When you look at features, weight, what is included the Mahle are not cheap but they are a good value and really that is what most of us should look for in a build. "cheap" nearly always cost more in the long run.
The Powerpak being 4032 instead of 2618 uses a tighter bore clearance for less noise and will handle "high mileage" better. My understanding is 2618 will wear out the ring grooves faster than a hypereutetic or 4032 piston.
When you look at features, weight, what is included the Mahle are not cheap but they are a good value and really that is what most of us should look for in a build. "cheap" nearly always cost more in the long run.
Forged 4032 aluminum it is. I figure with high compression and E85 I will want to maintain tight tolerances, especially since E85 doesn't like the cold starts very much. Thanks for the advice.
Give em a Call if you havent bought any yet!! That is a good deal. Unfortunately, I'm not buying until the beginning of the year due to Xmas, but I want to have all of my parts list ready to go, and pistons and rings are the only parts I haven't decided on yet. Which makes me ask, which rings would be best for a high CR E85 setup? Total seal, others?
