Is there any benefit to this conversion?

Hp gains?

Is it easier on the crank?

Reliability at higher power-levels/rpm?

Any real world reason for me to do it? Or just for the extreme?

Also would this change the lt1 firing order to the ls1 firing order?

And if it does change the firing order would it change the lt1 sound and make it sound more like an ls1 - the alum. block?

Just curious as I can't find out about the firing order question in the search.

 

It will sound like an LS1 and therefore be better.

 

No, it does not change the firing order.

 

There's endless benefits to this conversion.

 

I am going to help you out, as much as anyone can. It eliminates the need for a opti it goes from a distributor to a crank position sensor, you go from one coil to 8 coils and out of all those ?s the one that is closest is the reliability at higher power and rpm levels? And a bunch of other stuff that wld take way to long to explain. If your truly interested maybe have a sig or a actual goal or let us know why u think u need a 24x system other than the fact that it might make ur lt1 sound like a ls1???????

 

I really could care less about sounding like an ls1. I am actually partial to the lt1 sound and was worried that the ls1 conversion would ruin it.

I have an ls1 donor car sitting in my drive way and have been contemplating doing le2 lt1 vs. ls1 swap.

I already bought the ls1 from a friend for $900. Problem is I want a manual transmission and the m6's are way cheaper for an lt1. Not to mention I can't seem to find any used ls1 t56 transmissions for sale around where I live anyway.

Plus if I can get comparable hp out of the lt1 I would rather do that.

The other problem is that the le2 lt1 would cost about $2500.

I have a complete donor ls1 for $900 but I could probably sell everything off that car for some profit and then put it into a manual transmission for the lt1 and head/cam.

If I go ls1 I would be stuck with the 4l60e for a while.

The reason I care about efi conversion is that if I am going to go through all this trouble I want my car to be fast. So I was looking at forced induction and would like to see anywhere from 400whp-500whp. Down the road 500-600+ would be nice but I need to be a little realistic. 600+ isn't in the cards for a while now.

To further complicate the issue I live in CA. So smog is a real bitch.

With all that in mind. I need the engine to survive under boost down the road and I heard the the lt1 can't handle as much hp on the stock crank because of the firing order and the opti-spark.

Which brings me back to the 24x conversion.

So basically yes. My end goal is a nice forced induction set up no matter which engine gets me there and a manual transmission.

I am just trying to figure out which path is going to be the most cost efficient in $ per hp.

I'm not a cheap bastard, I just hate wasting money. So I save up large chunks of change to do something right the first time. And I don't want to make the wrong choice so I posted some questions.

 

it does NOT make an LT1 sound like a LS1.

 

Given the questions you asked and then your stated goals the best thing you can do is leave the hoods on both cars closed for the time being untill you get the vagues of clues what you are doing.

You scoff at the price of a budget heads/cam setup but then want to do a computer swap that will cost 2/3rds as much for little to no tangible benefit.

Many folks will tell you the 24x setup is gods gift to the LT1 but when you actually look around competent people have little trouble with the stock LT1 system and all those running their mouth about the vast benefits of the 24x are going to have a really hard time proving it. You will hear such wonderous things as "easier tuning" but neglecting to mention OBD1 tuning software is $100 instead of $600 for LS, or that they had a smoother idle after the swap and neglect to consider they had a 50K mile cap and rotor on the LT1.

Is the 24x setup technically better, yes, but it cost a LOT and gets you till in real benefits unless you have an engine that needs to go over 7000rpm or that could really use a 2-bar MAP then I could see there being real benefits.

This community LOVES to push folks to "save" money on critical pieces and strongly recommend spending huge amounts of money on things with little benefit.

Again technically better but in the real world you will find those going fastest for the least often just have a competently assembled stock ignition system. If the 24x was that wonderful......................................... ...........

 

oooooooo ok so u have a ls1 engine no tranny facing down either putting in a ls1 thinking as everyone does that a ls1 is cheaper to make hp than a lt1 is(which has never evr bn proven and i personally think it wld be very hard to prove anyway) so ur ?s is spend 2500 + on a tranny or just drop the money in ur existing lt1 and if u did wld u need 24x and down the road ur gonna go p1 shooting for 500-600hp first of all u have factor in the cost of doing a ls1 swap that is not free so figuring that in now u have 3 maybe a little more well u have heads and a cam at this point but there is so much more that will pop up on this uve never even mentioned how ur gonna put this hp down on the road ul have 1000s in suspension to upgrade a stock car to put 500 down effectively ,SFC,LCAS,TA,shocks and coils,then u have all the other things exhaust,fuel pump, and a tune but this cost is gonna cost is gonna come regardless of which way u go and if u price a used p1 for a lt they are cheaper than a ls if u stay ard the 500 hp area youll be fine w ur stock compuer and the opti u do know that 24x is 2400 and usually a three month wait if u truly want to learn abt 24 x advantages disadvantages pm a guy he goes by 96greenta he know a ton abt it cuz he builds harnesses

 

Well said 96caprice, I only swapped mine for CustomOS's and boost.

Well that and to see if I could build it myself. I used a distributor instead of 24x however.

 

96 will know this how many lbs of boost can you run a 2 bar system effectively, i thot it was 10 or 12 not sure. But regardless it should be last on your mind u have a million other thing that youll be spending money on before 24 x.

 

1 bar MAP -14 (vacuum) - O PSI
2 bar MAP -14 (vacuum) - 14 PSI (boost)
3 bar MAP -14 (vacuum) - 28 PSI (boost)

Approximately

 

thank you!

 

The explanation breaks down to each Bar equalling about 14.5 psi and the label of the MAP sensor refers to its range of measuring not its peak measurement value. So each MAP starts measuring at a value of -1 bar (stock baseline) and from there is able to measure up to its range hence

-1 bar + 1 bar = 0
-1 bar + 2 bar = 1 bar or 14.5 psi
-1 bar + 3 bar = 2 bar or 29 psi

I rounded the previous values down for safety reasons

 

Current placeholder of Longest Run On Sentence EVER.

 

Pay attention to 96Caprice. He's onto something here.

 

Part of the downside of living in a texting society. Picking up bad habits

 

Don't mistake me for an LS hater either. My current daily is a 2005 Sierra and I already picked up an LQ9 shortblock for it. I really want to play but for the time being "life" has me leaving that shortblock in the corner of the garage. I fully intend to get a plan together and get it in the truck.

Just about everything you do on a car costs more than you initially think it will be it tuning left out of the estimate, or you find heater hoses are soft, or you drop something on the radiator and spring a leak etc. It is VERY rare for a car project to come in at budget.

If you want the LS computer I would only do it with the LS engine, the hardware to make the 24x fit the LT1 cost more than a junkyard LQ4 with pcm and harness. That said swapping engines will cost more than you think even with a complete donor.

 

96 I don't think anyone took you for an LSx hater and I think you've given the best advice so far, OP should step back and consider exactly what he wants to accomplish. Drivable 500-600 Hp with a Forced Induction LTx isnt impossible with the right combination of parts.

I would suggest selling the LS1 and purchasing your T56 swap for the LT1 if that's the only thing you are sure that you want right now.

Later on you can worry about preparing the chassis for your eventual HP goals and assembling an engine capable of handling Forced Induction.

 

LMAO
and not to thread jack but does someone know where one can find the diagram or instructions to redo your own harness for this conversion