what synthetic oil do you recommend?
12-14-2012, 11:30 AM
#22
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****, I've used RP for the last 20k on my car. It currently has 75k, Am I screwed?
I'm changing it as soon as Spring comes, good thing I'm not going to be driving it till then.
I too have researched the hell out of this topic and I keep hearing bad things about RP. over and over again. Its bs that nothing is done about this, people are going to continue to be messing there cars up and they think they're using the best oil out there.
I'm changing it as soon as Spring comes, good thing I'm not going to be driving it till then.
I too have researched the hell out of this topic and I keep hearing bad things about RP. over and over again. Its bs that nothing is done about this, people are going to continue to be messing there cars up and they think they're using the best oil out there.
12-14-2012, 12:00 PM
#24
****, I've used RP for the last 20k on my car. It currently has 75k, Am I screwed?
I'm changing it as soon as Spring comes, good thing I'm not going to be driving it till then.
I too have researched the hell out of this topic and I keep hearing bad things about RP. over and over again. Its bs that nothing is done about this, people are going to continue to be messing there cars up and they think they're using the best oil out there.
I'm changing it as soon as Spring comes, good thing I'm not going to be driving it till then.
I too have researched the hell out of this topic and I keep hearing bad things about RP. over and over again. Its bs that nothing is done about this, people are going to continue to be messing there cars up and they think they're using the best oil out there.
It isn't going to harm the motor but it sure as hell isn't offering it the protection you would expect for the substantial price.
Car is low mileage yet too.
It is a matter of routine for engines these days to go 200K+ with bulk quicklube oil so mileage claims by most mean little and it should be understood that paying extra for synthetics is mostly splitting hairs over a tiny bit better oil unless you are going to extend drain intervals which is where synthetic really offers advantages. for most cars. Get into something that runs the oil HOT like turbos or such and there can be benefits too.
12-14-2012, 12:11 PM
#25
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I use regular Mobil 1 10w30 cold months (Not too cold down here in florida) and for the REALLY hot months, 20w50 Mobil 1 (2 qrts) mixed with regular 10w40 (3 qrts) to fill pan. With all my oil changes, I always throw in 1 quart of full synthetic for the season primarily for oil breakdown purposes only! I do however change my oil every 1500 miles...
12-14-2012, 12:35 PM
#26
No particular order. You will VERY rarely see these oils tested against each other due to their close equivalencies. But they will always test against other big name brands top synthetics. They blow them away.
97z28ss....
High zinc is only needed in flat tappet motors. All the new "break-in" oils being made are very high in zinc and are formulated specifically for flat tappet. On a roller cam motor, synthetics can be used for break in from the start. Besides, a good engine builder should have used alot of break in lube during assembly.
The reason many don't use full synthetic for break in is why spend all the extra money to run it for 30 min and drain it back out. Dino oil is good for that to lubricate and begin flushing out most of the break in lube.
As for filters, It's hard to beat an AC Delco filter. I've seen alot of tests and AC is always on top. But Wixis used throughout the trucking and heavy equipment world for a reason.
Here is a good read, tough not entirely complete.
http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/index.html
&
http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
Also, For those who want to know about UOA. Amsoil and Blackstone Labs do them for you. I use Blackstone for mine. last oil change on my Duramax was 18k and the report was still good but a little high in soot due to my EGR still being active. So I changed it. I sample every 6k miles or so. I run Amsoil 15/40 in it.
97z28ss....
High zinc is only needed in flat tappet motors. All the new "break-in" oils being made are very high in zinc and are formulated specifically for flat tappet. On a roller cam motor, synthetics can be used for break in from the start. Besides, a good engine builder should have used alot of break in lube during assembly.
The reason many don't use full synthetic for break in is why spend all the extra money to run it for 30 min and drain it back out. Dino oil is good for that to lubricate and begin flushing out most of the break in lube.
As for filters, It's hard to beat an AC Delco filter. I've seen alot of tests and AC is always on top. But Wixis used throughout the trucking and heavy equipment world for a reason.
Here is a good read, tough not entirely complete.
http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/index.html
&
http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
Also, For those who want to know about UOA. Amsoil and Blackstone Labs do them for you. I use Blackstone for mine. last oil change on my Duramax was 18k and the report was still good but a little high in soot due to my EGR still being active. So I changed it. I sample every 6k miles or so. I run Amsoil 15/40 in it.
12-14-2012, 01:20 PM
#27
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It isn't going to harm the motor but it sure as hell isn't offering it the protection you would expect for the substantial price.
Car is low mileage yet too.
It is a matter of routine for engines these days to go 200K+ with bulk quicklube oil so mileage claims by most mean little and it should be understood that paying extra for synthetics is mostly splitting hairs over a tiny bit better oil unless you are going to extend drain intervals which is where synthetic really offers advantages. for most cars. Get into something that runs the oil HOT like turbos or such and there can be benefits too.
Car is low mileage yet too.
It is a matter of routine for engines these days to go 200K+ with bulk quicklube oil so mileage claims by most mean little and it should be understood that paying extra for synthetics is mostly splitting hairs over a tiny bit better oil unless you are going to extend drain intervals which is where synthetic really offers advantages. for most cars. Get into something that runs the oil HOT like turbos or such and there can be benefits too.
12-14-2012, 01:30 PM
#28
With RP the biggest thing was it wears out very quickly so 3K was probably better than leaving it in.
Though I haven't seen it very well studied because the oil companies wont put up the coin I have seen some reports that too frequent oil changes actually raise the wear metal content per thousand miles. So in many cases those who constantly change may not actually be helping anything. "hurting" would be too strong a statement to apply to their engine but it certainly does hurt the wallet, and if you have a modded car putting down a lot more the GM ever intended for the motor it doesn't hurt to drain it just to have a look and make sure there isn't any glitter brewing.
Though I haven't seen it very well studied because the oil companies wont put up the coin I have seen some reports that too frequent oil changes actually raise the wear metal content per thousand miles. So in many cases those who constantly change may not actually be helping anything. "hurting" would be too strong a statement to apply to their engine but it certainly does hurt the wallet, and if you have a modded car putting down a lot more the GM ever intended for the motor it doesn't hurt to drain it just to have a look and make sure there isn't any glitter brewing.
12-14-2012, 02:07 PM
#29
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With RP the biggest thing was it wears out very quickly so 3K was probably better than leaving it in.
Though I haven't seen it very well studied because the oil companies wont put up the coin I have seen some reports that too frequent oil changes actually raise the wear metal content per thousand miles. So in many cases those who constantly change may not actually be helping anything. "hurting" would be too strong a statement to apply to their engine but it certainly does hurt the wallet, and if you have a modded car putting down a lot more the GM ever intended for the motor it doesn't hurt to drain it just to have a look and make sure there isn't any glitter brewing.
Though I haven't seen it very well studied because the oil companies wont put up the coin I have seen some reports that too frequent oil changes actually raise the wear metal content per thousand miles. So in many cases those who constantly change may not actually be helping anything. "hurting" would be too strong a statement to apply to their engine but it certainly does hurt the wallet, and if you have a modded car putting down a lot more the GM ever intended for the motor it doesn't hurt to drain it just to have a look and make sure there isn't any glitter brewing.
But seriously, I am so over using RP. btw: Will using a synt oil with Zddp hurt my car?
I was going to go with Amsoil Z-Rod.
Right now just bolt ons, cam in the summer.
12-14-2012, 02:14 PM
#30
Like I said I wouldn't say "too often can hurt the engine" just there is some data to suggest it really does not help. The increased wear metal content per thousand miles was small but did seem consistently present, so the only damage was to the wallet.
I am with those saying ZDDP is more for flat tappets and maybe we could extend it to high spring pressure setups as well but with a typical hydraulic cam setup on a stock shortblock I wouldn't worry about it and if I were concerned I might do something like Rotella, readily available, not too expensive, yes it is considered a diesel oil but it is API rated for gas engines. Too much ZDDP can hurt catalytic converters which is why it has been reduced in recent years.
I am with those saying ZDDP is more for flat tappets and maybe we could extend it to high spring pressure setups as well but with a typical hydraulic cam setup on a stock shortblock I wouldn't worry about it and if I were concerned I might do something like Rotella, readily available, not too expensive, yes it is considered a diesel oil but it is API rated for gas engines. Too much ZDDP can hurt catalytic converters which is why it has been reduced in recent years.
12-14-2012, 02:36 PM
#31
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Like I said I wouldn't say "too often can hurt the engine" just there is some data to suggest it really does not help. The increased wear metal content per thousand miles was small but did seem consistently present, so the only damage was to the wallet.
I am with those saying ZDDP is more for flat tappets and maybe we could extend it to high spring pressure setups as well but with a typical hydraulic cam setup on a stock shortblock I wouldn't worry about it and if I were concerned I might do something like Rotella, readily available, not too expensive, yes it is considered a diesel oil but it is API rated for gas engines. Too much ZDDP can hurt catalytic converters which is why it has been reduced in recent years.
I am with those saying ZDDP is more for flat tappets and maybe we could extend it to high spring pressure setups as well but with a typical hydraulic cam setup on a stock shortblock I wouldn't worry about it and if I were concerned I might do something like Rotella, readily available, not too expensive, yes it is considered a diesel oil but it is API rated for gas engines. Too much ZDDP can hurt catalytic converters which is why it has been reduced in recent years.
12-14-2012, 03:27 PM
#33
By UOA in LT1s PP and GC are about the best I have seen. It is important to look specifically at the engine in question, different engines like different oils LT1 and LS1s actually seem to have similar preferences but that doesn't mean the oils they like are perfect for a turbo 4 cylinder or that the oil a turbo 4 cylinder likes is right for a GM V8.
12-14-2012, 03:36 PM
#34
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Mobil1 is the cheapest and most available in my area. My streetcars will stay with that. I might consider Pennzoil Platinum for the Autocross and Dragcar. Every bit helps at 8000+ RPM!
12-14-2012, 04:26 PM
#35
BTW, there's a reason ALL LT1's and the current high power LSx's mandate Mobil 1. I bought my Impala new in 94. The 3yr/36k mile warranty was pretty clear that Mobil 1 had to be used. But by 20k miles, it was pretty well modded so warranty was void.
I work in a GM parts dept. When an engine or internal part of a new LS3, LSA, 7 or 9 is warranted, GM want's the part/assembly back with any and all documenting paperwork for oil changes.
The Duramax's have very stringent steps before a warranty claim is approved.
I work in a GM parts dept. When an engine or internal part of a new LS3, LSA, 7 or 9 is warranted, GM want's the part/assembly back with any and all documenting paperwork for oil changes.
The Duramax's have very stringent steps before a warranty claim is approved.
12-14-2012, 05:00 PM
#36
Did you actually just write that, did you hit your head today? The Vette was the only LT1 that RECOMMENDED M1or even synthetic the others were fine with plain old dino oil. Then for a long time M1 UOAs all showed M1 5w-30 the mythical magical best oil for LT1s to have consistently elevated iron UOA numbers.
The LT1 Vette got the recommendation because they didn't feel like packaging an oil cooler so they anticipated elevated oil temps hence the synthetic to handle the heat.
The LT1 Vette got the recommendation because they didn't feel like packaging an oil cooler so they anticipated elevated oil temps hence the synthetic to handle the heat.
12-14-2012, 05:12 PM
#37
12-14-2012, 05:42 PM
#38
If you have a problem with what I wrote please find something in GM documentation about "all LT1s" mandating M1 or even mandating synthetic. From what I find online M1 was the Vette factory fill and RECOMMENDED but not mandated.
That is the problem around here folks who defend those posting flat out wrong info, not a matter of opinion just factually inaccurate.
I have an LT1 car owner's manual in front of me as I type.
I see it calls for API rated SAE 5w-30 at any temp or SAE 10w-30 is acceptable above 0F.
Next time you want to criticize me please do so in combination with some factual data to refute the point I am trying to make.
12-15-2012, 07:14 AM
#40
There generally all the same, some guys get hardons for Amsoil though lol. I usually go w/ the best price at the time, just change it at the proper intervals. Ive been using M1 extended performance the last few times because its priced good at Walmart..To be honest id be more concerned on the filter you use w/ it.