Bone stock T/A... what to do first?
12-19-2012, 07:28 PM
#1
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Bone stock T/A... what to do first? My dads got a 95 T/A, M6 car thats basically bone stock. K and N intake, HPP3 (I know) and a raven muffler. Well the car was just painted so I want to do some appearance and performance mods while hes somewhat gonna let me.As of now I've got a extra 3.73 gear, a set of stock 02 WS6 wheels ( his are the painted), a set of Torque Thrust II's (11s for the rear), a SLP air box lid, b and m shifter,and a Hooker catback with a e cutout all just laying around I could throw on it. The car has all ready been converted to honeycomb taillights. What other appearance or rather cost effective bolt ons do you guys think I should try to talk him into. And do you guys think TTII's or WS6 wheels?
12-19-2012, 10:28 PM
#2
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TTII's are kinda played out i like ws6 wheels, call me crazy i like to rotate my tires. The SLP lid would take alot of work to fit under a lt1 hood, some arent crazy about it but it been done before. Throw the hooker catback on it and the shifter when you get a chance.
12-20-2012, 06:51 AM
#5
1. Skip shift eliminator
2. Shifter
3. long tubes, and a cutout or some straight through catback
4. intake, LS1 lid if you have a WS6 hood
5. valvesprings and NSA 1.6 rockers (1.7 if you plan on staying stock cam)
6. Tune
That will put you in the mid to low 12s with some sticky tires.
2. Shifter
3. long tubes, and a cutout or some straight through catback
4. intake, LS1 lid if you have a WS6 hood
5. valvesprings and NSA 1.6 rockers (1.7 if you plan on staying stock cam)
6. Tune
That will put you in the mid to low 12s with some sticky tires.
12-20-2012, 08:23 AM
#6
Do you need the skip shift eliminator separate from the tune? I though that was a tuning issue and could be deleted without any additional hardware?
Don't have an M6 so I am genuinely asking.
With an M6 I would really look at 4.10s not 3.73s do the math with the double OD top being .50 4.10s are NOT a deep gear atall
Don't have an M6 so I am genuinely asking.
With an M6 I would really look at 4.10s not 3.73s do the math with the double OD top being .50 4.10s are NOT a deep gear atall
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12-20-2012, 09:35 AM
#8
I have an air foil for the stock throttle body if you're interested...
On a serious note I would go with long tube headers and ditch all the EGR stuff if your state doesn't care about emmisions.
On a serious note I would go with long tube headers and ditch all the EGR stuff if your state doesn't care about emmisions.
12-22-2012, 05:15 AM
#9
You are correct in ur thinking... If u have it tuned out.... U do not need tge skip shift eliminator...
Do you need the skip shift eliminator separate from the tune? I though that was a tuning issue and could be deleted without any additional hardware?
Don't have an M6 so I am genuinely asking.
With an M6 I would really look at 4.10s not 3.73s do the math with the double OD top being .50 4.10s are NOT a deep gear atall
Don't have an M6 so I am genuinely asking.
With an M6 I would really look at 4.10s not 3.73s do the math with the double OD top being .50 4.10s are NOT a deep gear atall
12-26-2012, 03:01 PM
#11
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My dads got a 95 T/A, M6 car thats basically bone stock. K and N intake, HPP3 (I know) and a raven muffler. Well the car was just painted so I want to do some appearance and performance mods while hes somewhat gonna let me.As of now I've got a extra 3.73 gear, a set of stock 02 WS6 wheels ( his are the painted), a set of Torque Thrust II's (11s for the rear), a SLP air box lid, b and m shifter,and a Hooker catback with a e cutout all just laying around I could throw on it. The car has all ready been converted to honeycomb taillights. What other appearance or rather cost effective bolt ons do you guys think I should try to talk him into. And do you guys think TTII's or WS6 wheels?
I've got some shorty headers for cheap if you want them. $125 with y-pipe and O2s. I'm in VA as well. I'm a little over 2 hours from you but am willing to meet you if you want. On another note, sticky tires and seat time would help establish a baseline before moving forward with mods. If you're going with 3.73s, find out how the car responds to that and go from there. You'd be surprised how far bolt ons will take you. Hope this helps.
12-28-2012, 07:08 AM
#12
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I'm sure you got it all covered already but I'd start with all the maintenance first. From the filter to gera oil and all between. Watched a friends car go from 13.90-14.00's at 97-98 to 13.40.'s-13.3's with drag radials at 102ish w/ nothing more then doing the maintenance stuff and a cheap 2400 stall. all stock on the rest.
12-28-2012, 07:51 AM
#13
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who ever say tt2s are played out and to put stock wheels back on ............ i dont even know what to say to that, ur premise wld be that more people run tt2 than ws6 .......... i dont know where u live but in the the midwest everyone has ws6 wheel painted unpainted dont get me wrong they are a nice wheel but of the two i wouldnt say tt2 are played, if u look thru the multimedia thread theyres more comments on tt2 than anyother rim out there and as far as bang for the buck its those. I really hate to b that guy that says what i drive is btr than urs im not like that but to say theyre played out, its just a false statement imo.Now back to ur ? i wld agree with all headers wld be a first mod. Everybody will hate this but i still think when it comes to most hp for the dollar ewp is first on the list,its a touchy subject ard here i love mine and have no problems w it. Please stay away from tbs intakes or anything like that for a while.........just my .02
