Trapped 107mph a week ago... just thought I'd ask you guys what your take is on it. Not really sure... I'd post in the dragging section, but since my cars an LT1 I figured it'd be better here.

mods are...
vortech s-trim 9psi, stock heads, stock intake, 52mm TB, crane 214/222 .488/.509 112lsa, b&m 2400 stall, edelbrock shorties & 2.5" y-pipe, borla catback, forged 8.8:1 compression, totally stock suspension & street tires, vortech t-rex inline pump, 42 lb/hr injectors, pcmforless tune

times in sig...

 

well i seen a guy trap like u and was in low 12's like 12.2 12.3....but he had real good 60 ft times...1.6, 1.7....so that puts u in about high 12's or low 13's....12.8, 12.9, 13.1, 13.2...but im just guessing.

 

Same as I was thinking...

 

Moser 12 & ported LT4's??? Are you running ET Streets or just street radials? With the two mods above to your combo I'd say you should be low 12's & trapping at least 115 with decent street radials, even better with ETs out back.

 

definetly at least 114-115.

 

No.. those are planned mods, not what I have on. Check out my site here: http://www.cardomain.com/id/the_enis

I better take that out of my sig.. lol. I also edited the original post with my mods.

 

ok I'm lost, I went to your site but it's not clear what's present and future. With all the stuff I saw on the site I'd say you'd be running in the 11's lol...anyway unless I missed it all, what do you actually have on now? Lets go from there first.

 

Motor
- Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft, 3.48" stroke
- Speed-Pro forged and dished aluminum pistons (9:1 Compression)
- Eagle 4340 5.7" H-Beam Connecting Rods
- Speed-Pro Piston Rings
- GM Hardened Pushrods
- Clevite Main Bearings
- Clevite Rod Bearings
- Crane Hydraulic Roller Camshaft (214/222 duration @ .050*, .488/.509 gross lift, 112 LSA)
- Custom tuned PCM by Bryan Herter at PCM For Less
- Fel-pro Head Gaskets
- Fel-pro Intake Manifold Gasket
- Fel-pro Header Gaskets
- Fel-pro Oil Pan Gasket
- Fel-pro Valve Cover Gaskets
- Melling High Volume Oil Pump
- Hypertech 160* Powerstat
Induction
- Vortech S-Trim Supercharger
- Vortech 2.95" pulley (9 psi @ redline)
- BBK 52mm Throttle Body
Ignition/Fuel Regulation
- Crane Cams HI-6 Fireball Ignition System (6500 RPM Redline)
- Vortech T-Rex Inline Fuel Pump, 50gph
- Taylor Spiro-Pro 409 8mm ignition wires
- 1200* ignition wire heat sleeves
- NGK Spark Plugs gapped .035
- Bosch 42 lb/hr Fuel Injectors
Exhaust
- Edelbrock 1 5/8" Midlength Headers
- Edelbrock Offroad 2.5" Y-Pipe
- Flowtech 3" Manual Cutout
- Borla Adjustable 3" Cat-Back
Drivetrain
- B&M 4L60E Shift Improver
- Energy Transmission Polyurethane Transmission Mount
- B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter
- Spohn Driveshaft Loop
Braking
- VHT Painted Calipers
- Powerstop Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
Suspension
- Competition Engineering bolt-on subframe connectors
- Competition Engineering Strut Tower Brace

 

You definitely have a car that should easily run very low 12s, even on stock heads. Key word "stock suspension". Definitely time for Panhard rod, LCA's. Those two alone netted me 3/10ths, now there are differences, poly bushings vs hime-joint non-bushings, etc. I optioned for no poly-bushings and could never go the other way now with the performance. Next you should invest in either Nitto Drag 555s to fit your rims or go lighter with 15" Weld DragLite or Prostar rims and ET Streets out back and runners for the front. Just baby your 10-bolt on launching which being automatic and just a 2400 tq converter you'll be fine. After that I'd consider AFR heads, 12 bolt, Spohn Torque Arm (don't waste your money on the torque arm that connects to the tranny), drag spring/shocks up front and a serious sway bar out back. At least do the PH/LCAs for now and Nittos.

 

Are you kidding? I doubt I'd get more than 3 launches out of my rear with those suspension mods. What's the point of doing them if you can't launch all out? There is none, really. I'll have a fully built suspension and still be cutting 1.9s-2.0s, a have the constant worry that my rear is gonna go, any run. No thanks...

I know I can get in 12s easily with suspension mods, that's why I asked the trap question... not trying to sound harsh but man, I didn't think it was that complicated of a question..

My goal is to get into low low 12s with a totally stock suspension, and then begin saving up for a 12-bolt/9"

 

I didn't see it as complicated at all, ask anyone that knows anything they'll tell you to do suspension. PH/LCAs are not going to kill your rearend first off, just help you make use of your rwhp, along with decent tires. Simple 101 basics dude.

 

Have you ever even dealt with a 10-bolt? Do you even own an F-Body?

10-bolts are weaker than ****. I've seen so many people drop 10-bolts on bone stock LT1 cars just doing burnouts.

 

something is seriously wrong, a cammed blown LT1 running at 9psi, you should be at 120mph at least. My 93 with bolt ons trapped 107, and i was an automatic, dyno numbers were 290rwhp and 337rwtq, and i was running the stock converter

 

Those edelbrock headers aren't helping you one bit.

 

Well duh, wouldn't have replied otherwise and read the sig dude, I've had a couple fbodys. Was just trying to give you some simple basic advice, just like Brian said your car should be trapping much higher with your mods. Yes I know all about 10 bolts, some have run 11s and are lucky, others have crapped out running mid 12s. It's not rocket science what your car needs but good luck whatever you do.

 

Good point, they SUCK!!!! i had em, and was still able to trap almost 108, hahahahahaha

 

Bring that POS to Detroit Jon. We'll get it where it should be...116-120mph IMO.

 

I wish...

It'll get there soon. Like mentioned before, the previous owner skimped on tons of parts. The cam, headers, stall... etc. Over the summer I'm hoping I can make enough money working 2 jobs to get her trapping around 120 without increasing boost at all (in other words, getting her where she should be now if she didn't have a moron for a previous owner).