LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Help Me with ordering Parts

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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Default Help Me with ordering Parts

Alright I am going to do some spending and need some ideas for some stuff.
I have my rear end being shipping in a little over a week.
So I will need some parts to complement the new rear end.
Heres what I am thinking about.

Torque Arm and Driveshaft Loop

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...rs-Y-Pipe.html
I am looking at this one because it includes a driveshaft loop on the cross brace, so 2 birds with one stone.

Wheels for Slicks and Training wheels

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...b25a/overview/
Thinking these for the fronts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...b25a/overview/
These for the rears.
Will these work?

Slicks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3754/overview/

Skinnies (Training Wheels)

I have no idea what to run for these?

Harnesses

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-9210cd/overview/
Wrap around so I don't have to weld tabs on my powder coated roll cage.

Seats

http://6litereaterdesigns.com/store/...products_id=67

Clutch

Toss up between a Stage 3 or Stage 4 Spec clutch. Someone help me on this decision?

Shocks

Also have no idea what shocks to run? BMR directed me to Strange Shocks, UMI said QA1s or Viking Coilovers.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_338_339&p roducts_id=744

Bell Housing

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mc...make/chevrolet
This as the Quicktime is 12lbs lighter but also 130 bucks more.




So if anyone has recommendations or suggestions shoot them at me.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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I order only one part at a time as i learn more as the project progresses and change my mind frequently. Heck your only going to do one project at time anyways.

Just my 2 cents,
cardo
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 03:36 AM
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what you have listed is great for an all out drag car. I have the TQ arm you're looking at sitting in my garage waiting to go on. I also have the SA QA1's (the older aluminum bodied ones). I like QA1's 275 lb front springs. As for harness and seats---it truly depends on weather or not you want them. The wheels are good choices from what I've seen everyone ordering, I kept it old school with some older ProStars. It's all personal taste. The suspension parts are a good starting point though.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 04:29 AM
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Why not surf classified and Craigslist and buy used? It's middle of February right now it's not like you are going racing this weekend.

And do a quick search on here for "spohn torque arm failure", there have been a bunch. That being said its what I'm putting on my car because there are still tons of people with no issues. Just food for thought.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 08:33 AM
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http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=212
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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i'm investing my money into a watts link, really excited to place my order as soon as taxes come in....
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Yea go with that umi one I like how low the bottom bar is compared to spohns.

Don't underestimate Craigslist, I got my torque arm for $200, and a ton of other **** for way cheaper than the forums because you don't have to deal with PayPal fees and shipping.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Shopping around is the best way to go! I got all of my suspension from an abandoned project, then sold the roller and 9" for what I paid for the car. It's all a matter of finding deals where you can.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by duh
Shopping around is the best way to go! I got all of my suspension from an abandoned project, then sold the roller and 9" for what I paid for the car. It's all a matter of finding deals where you can.
I did the same exact thing. I sold the chassis for what I paid for the car, and kept the 9" and entire rear suspension. Craigslist FTMFW!!!
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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You also need to realize that torque arm will not work on an x pipe set up. Are you stick or auto? Long arm for stick and short arm for auto. Only way to make tunnel mount style torque arms work with duals is to use an x that has straight inlets and outlets so both pipes end up on the right side. So best way to do it with traditional duals, get a relo crossmember and long arm. If you want a loop get one from Midwest.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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Currently have X pipe but will probably be changing so it won't matter.

Basically what I am asking is, is the bell housing the right house? I would like to keep my feet.

What is the back spacing on a 15x9 rim and a 15x4 rim?

What front runners should I run?

I'm not wanting to talk about price just if you think what is listed is good or suggest another part.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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15x9 backspacing should be right about 6.5" The front runner wheels will probably be 1.75-1.5" (they don't give many options due to limited space to work within the wheel). Tires for the fronts....IIRC mine are 185/75R15 Comes out to a 26" tire. The bellhousing is your choice. They're both SFI approved. Pick whichever fit your budget. If you can afford the extra $$ go for the lighter one. If not then deal with the minor weight difference and pull 12lbs out of somewhere else.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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I saw a thread about the RTS wheels and the 1.5 backspacing and they were sticking out past the fender.

I measured from the back off the rotor to the hat and thats 2.5" so if I understand that means for a 4" rim it would stick pass the hat by 1.5" which is nicely tucked into the wheel well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wl...b65a/overview/

9.275" rim with a 6.5" backspace. Is that what we are saying?
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:28 PM
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UMI over Spohn.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 10:31 PM
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Yeah I have decided to go with the UMI and try the Viking Performance for the Torque arm and shocks.

Still need to decided on rims and tires.
Then I will start ordering.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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I have the Mcleod bellhousing. There's a cutout you have to make for the starter, but other than that it went on great. It does hang low though, slightly lower than the oil pan. Not sure if the Quicktime is any better in that regard.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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Just read a thread saying the Quicktime is a direct replacement.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-mcleod-2.html

Also thanks, thats the kind of information I am looking for.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 03:28 PM
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Actually, sorry, I meant to say lower than the stock K-member. It is VERY stout though.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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I ended up buying the Quicktime.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by guppymech
FYI, Quicktime bellhousing RM-9023 is made in USA.
Mcleod 8760-00 bellhousing is made in China.

Your choice.
That's interesting to know. If I bought the Mcleod and saw it was a Chinese import when I got it, it'd be sent back immediately.
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