Nucmedkahuna

So I'm just curious if someone can tell me the correct way to torque head bolts on a 1994 lt1 Z28. I just had an exhaust valve replaced, nothing major just a very small bend in the valve. Stroker kit 383.

I followed the HP Books "how to rebuild small block LT1/LT4 engines And according to their final assembly section you torque to 22 ft/lbs and then degree the different long and short bolts 80 and 67 degrees.

I checked in my Haynes manual and for 95 and earlier, it just states 65ft/lbs. for 96-97 they follow the HP Book method.

I checked torque tables online, they say 65 ft/lbs, but in three steps (bfranker).

I just have the driver side head on right now with 22ft/lbs on all boots in order until I know if I need to degree, or torque to 65ft/lbs and if so do it in three steps or do I just crank them down in order to 65ft/lbs?

Any help is appreciated,

Thanks

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Definitely don't do that. First, are you using stock or ARP bolts? Shoebox lists the methods and torque pattern here, I'd do whatever is in the GM manual for stock bolts. ARP will be different.

http://shbox.com/ci/head_assy.jpg

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I have ALWAYS torqued them down in a circular pattern (torque sequence from the inside out) in 3 passes. 20# first pass, then 45# second pass, then 70# final pass, using ARP bolts (134-3601) with never a problem.

You can use the # method OR the angle-torque method. Either one works fine with bolts.

Nucmedkahuna

They are Fel-Pro with thread seal. The machine shop ordered them for me when I had the heads done. So should I follow the 93-95 instructions, which looks like they skip degreeing all together?

BTW, thanks for the diagram that is a HUGE help! Thanks!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

For the torque pattern, yes. For the amount of torque applied to the bolts you should follow the machine shop's instruction. As suggested, torque the bolts in steps and not all at once.