Back after 7 years but got problems
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From: BFE, MT
Back after 7 years but got problems Hi guys I need some help with my LT1. My motor got vandalized, some assclown dumped sugar in my motor, any way it got put out back for few years but know she's on the street again but with issues. It idles fine on start up but quickly idles up to around 1500 my SES light comes on and my fans kick on and run constant. The air bag light stays on unless I pull the fuse and the security light is always on. It also has a hesitation but I'm blaming that on the opticrap. The build has no major modifications and cam and displacement remains stock. Any help to get my bird back to kickin major butt would be helpfull.
Travis.
Travis.
Wow sounds like a real mess haha, i know when my computer crapped out both my fans kicked onbut the car wouldn't even start, id check fuel pressure icm coil make sure you have strong spark, all the basics first
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From: BFE, MT
It has good spark and fuel pressure seems strong. It'll roast the tires off and do 140 in third. It has a slight hesitation between 2500-3200 rpm. Oh and my cruse doesnt work either.
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From: BFE, MT
Im not sure what codes its throwing in my area I have very limited access to a code machine the parts stores is broken and the dealer wants a bunch of money to read it for me then they will want to work on it and they are retarded couldn't even find a broken wire in the door of my wife's bonnie GXP. I'm going to buy a hypertech for it soon, but I think I may have a burned up wire. The ground that goes by the starter was hooked up wrong and was on the positive side of the starter and may have fired a relay or a wire but I'm not sure it did get caught right away. I can't find any vac leaked to explane away the high idle. Could a bad MAF explane some of my troubles. Normally I could hunt this down without a problem but this has left me scratching my head, and I'm not scared to ask for advice.
get some maf cleaner and clean the maf, check over all plugs wires, if there not new id replace them, is it missing or just sluggish, i know when i had a low mid rpm miss was my rotor arcing on the cap
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From: BFE, MT
Would a bad cap and rotor do that because I am ordering MSD optispark. My wires and plugs are new but I still plan on replacing them when I do the optispark. It is a hesitation it pulls hard at first then hesitates then it'll snap your neck back after 3500 rpm all the way till redline. I am also planing on ditching the stock tb in the near future.
Have it scanned before you start throwing parts at it. The dealership will charge you an hour diag to scan it but in the long run it will probably be cheaper than just throwing parts at it.
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From: BFE, MT
Replaced all barrings, polished heads and exhaust manifolds, new plugs and wires, ls1 style valve springs, water pump, belt hoses, new pistons and rings, and painted the block and valve covers orange.
buy a scanner it would be cheaper then the dealer and youd have it for future refrences, after sitting that long id look at everything, fuel pressure injectors strong spark even though you did all that stuff, some things might just be nasty from sitting for so long, how old is the fuel that is in the vehicle?
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From: BFE, MT
Fuel is new the tank has been flushed. I have been having trouble finding a scanner for obd1 and won't a hypertech do all that anyway and then I can tune it. My dad and I are both mechanics, we have been trying to figure this one out. His shop don't have the right computer addaptor, one of the other guys used it and never brought it back. Where are some other spots to check for vac leaks that I might have over looked?
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From: BFE, MT
Put it on a code reader this morning and, wait for it, it threw no codes. Air bag security and SES lights all still on cruse still don't work. Bought a new manual for it with some wire diagrams to try and find a fried wire and am going to check for vac leaks on my tb.
Was it tuned after you put a cam in it? If so was VATS turned off?
Start with this to diag the security light issue.
Check the resistance of the pellet, located in the key, using an ohmmeter. There are 15 different resistances. Find the connector, located at the base of the steering column and coming from the lock cylinder, and then unplug this connector. Place the key back in the lock cylinder and, using an ohmmeter on the wires coming from the lock cylinder at the bottom of the steering column, look for the same resistance as was measured on the pellet of the key. If the resistance is correct, rotate the key through the complete cycle; run, start, back to run, and then off. The resistance should never change through any part of this cycle. If the resistance changes when testing, replace the lock cylinder and have a new key cut with the correct resistance.
Start with this to diag the security light issue.
Check the resistance of the pellet, located in the key, using an ohmmeter. There are 15 different resistances. Find the connector, located at the base of the steering column and coming from the lock cylinder, and then unplug this connector. Place the key back in the lock cylinder and, using an ohmmeter on the wires coming from the lock cylinder at the bottom of the steering column, look for the same resistance as was measured on the pellet of the key. If the resistance is correct, rotate the key through the complete cycle; run, start, back to run, and then off. The resistance should never change through any part of this cycle. If the resistance changes when testing, replace the lock cylinder and have a new key cut with the correct resistance.
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From: BFE, MT
The cam is the stock one that was in the motor at engine pull. Would that bad key or lock system cause the curse to not work. My car is also equipted with an engine imobileizer chip near the diagnostic port and I had to change the key for that on rebuild because of a bad ground on first start up that smoked the key. It is possible that I have a burned up wire in my colum could that explain why my cruse dosnt work or is there a vac opperated relay for the cruse that may not be working right.
I'm not familiar with the engine imobilizer chip. On that car there isn't much too much to the cruise control system, basically there is a cruise control module, the cruise switch on the brake pedal(one on the clutch pedal if its a manual)and the multifunction switch(turn signal stalk)
I'm looking for the wiring diagram at the moment. It could be the multi function switch is bad, the cruise switch on the brake pedal needs adjustment/bad or the module itself is bad. Let me find the wiring diagram and we can go from there.
I'm looking for the wiring diagram at the moment. It could be the multi function switch is bad, the cruise switch on the brake pedal needs adjustment/bad or the module itself is bad. Let me find the wiring diagram and we can go from there.