Evil Opti

Ill bet you my whole bank account. Why change to an eagle crank over a stock crank if the whole power goal is around 500~hp? If I were to upgrade a crank I would spend the extra cash on a callies or Lunati. But that is not to say the eagle stuff is crap, because eagle cranks with stock stroke are about as equal as the stock cast crank. BTW with 500hp its more about the tuning, balancing, proper measurements, machining with the stock crank rather then a so called “upgraded” eagle cast crank. Stock Cast cranks with proper setup (Boost or spray) can hold well over 600hp. Just too many people think just because a crank is aftermarket means its stronger which is *** backwards thinking.

An old friend of mine ran a twin turbo 355 SBC with stock cast iron crank and made 794rwhp in a 69 chevelle. Of-course he had Forged rods & J.E Pistons. Stock SBC cranks are seriously underrated!

BIGCAT7274

Don't back pedal. You said forged.

Evil Opti

Dont back pedal? You might be sending that to the wrong person because when did you hear me say forged referring to the crank? The only time I said forged was about the rods and pistons. Haha

BIGCAT7274

Post #21 third sentence.

Evil Opti

I dont deny that either. I bet the stock crank can out perform an eagle forged sometimes as well, but not more often then not. A lot of times its hard to vary how much power a cast iron will hold. Not all motors are created equal. So many people let the stock good old crank go to waste when that $800 can go towards a good tune, pistons, or rods. Just remember its EAGLE. Not the best aftermarket crank & rod brand. They have some really nice H rods that is a great bang for your buck. With the cranks with a good set-up eagle will last. Just for me personally I would rather spend the extra cash on a Scat, Lunati, Callies, or Howards if I were to do a stroker.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Back in the bushes with you.

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

There is a post today "another one bites the dust" about an Eagle cast stroker crank breaking with pics and everything. As others have stated a boosted engine really needs all forged internals if you want it to live. Ask yourself how much it will cost to rebuild everything WHEN the crank breaks, it's cheaper to spend the extra money now than rebuild the engine later.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

yes i saw that post, i do not have an eagle crank for the record, it is a scat cast steel piece, but there is also someone who posted in the same thread with a broken scat cast crank which i think is the same as mine. it is not to late for me to switch to a forged crank since the motor is still on the engine stand in my garage. what would you guys recommend i go with if i want to run around 8-10lbs. of boost as well at somepoint in the future? thanks again guys

VAformula

iTrader: (8)

Honestly, if you plan on boost, go with the strongest crank you can do now, to prevent time and money later. If you get a new good crank, it will prolly last you the life of that car rather than take a risk.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

again the STOCK cast crank is solid, in like 12-13 years on the forums I am not aware of any examples of overpowering one. If budget is a concern keeping the stock crank rather than a blind quest for displacement is a perfectly reasonable place to save $500 or more. MUCH better choice than a $200 aftermarket cast crank

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Oh the shenanigans that come with this forum.

For the boost and power goals you have, a stock crank would be fine. I'm sure the scat crank you have is at least marginally better than the stock piece. The only issue you might run into is when you have it all done, and eventually you want more power. If you think this might happen, I would just get a forged crank now to save you the trouble later. But again, it is NOT needed for your current boost/power goals.

Honestly dude, it sounds like you have done your research just fine to me. I think you'll easily make 500 to the wheels with that setup (probably a little more).

Have you decided between the supercharger or the turbo yet?

Best luck with the build!

taner

iTrader: (6)

who the ***** pissed in your corn flakes? and whomever told you your car was fast must have felt sorry for you. hell i have lifted before the eighth and run 9.69. would you like to comment on my cam specs????
it is ***** nuts like that you make me merely lurk anymore. wow!!!!!!! get a life!!!!
didn't anyone EVER tell you if you have nothing nice to say then shut the ***** up!
you know the irony in all of this is how you say those of us with a fast car.... hmmm, you know what those of us with f bodies say about guys who try to move 2 plus tons down the track right...... well you should know as you seem to know everything else!!!

i am done here.

good luck with your build, and remember not everything you read on the internet is true!

AdsoYo

iTrader: (1)

Looks like an interesting build, hokeplaya. There's a lot of Golen bashing going on in here and I just wanted to offer my experience for reassurance. I bought his 400hp long block in May of '09 and have since put 25 thousand miles on it. They aren't exactly gentle miles either, ranging from 2,000 mile road trips to a few maximum speed runs (163 mph is the best run so far), and lots of red line shifting. So far the long block has held up beautifully. This last 870 mile trip I just finished yesterday I got 25 mpg. Maybe some people have had bad experiences but that's going to happen with a shop like Golen's who sees a large volume of customers. I personally couldn't be more satisfied and his customer service is absolutely outstanding. Just my .02

BIGCAT7274

You should try not to argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

BIGCAT and taner know their stuff.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (1)

well said tanner, well said.. Its people like that who drive new guys away for the boards.

OP, just have fun with it. Learn by trial and error. and most important have fun with it.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

A 11-12 second street/strip car doesn't need the same setup as a full blown racecar.

Far as cam specs you sound personally offended????????????? For a nitrous larger engine likely turning 25% or more higher than this engine with what .1 more lift bare minimum 30degrees more duration????? Hell 115 might be appropriate, but at a tiny 214degrees intake duration there isn't much excuse for it.
Go looking for a way to be offended and try and compare apples and oranges and it is real easy to find a way to disagree.

The OP is looking to build a mild street car not a 8 second racecar to roll off the trailer onto the street occasionally.

Far as the guy claiming the Scat cast is "marginally better than stock" there is a CURRENT thread with pics of a scat cast crank failure. I challenge you to find a single pic of a stock crank broken without something like a rod that probably broke first. When looking keep in mind there are many times more stock cranks out there in LT1s than cast scat cranks, so even if you find 10 pics of what I am asking for you still proved nothing. We have seen aftermarket cast cranks overpowered many times and I have still yet to see anyone even claim they overpowered a stocker much less actually make a good case for it.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

So you challenge me to find evidence (after your own evidence is there is one thread with one scat crank that failed), then go on to say that when I find evidence it proves nothing.

You sir, are a funny guy.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

thanks for sharing your experience with golen. i am going to stick with the motor setup i have, i DO NOT plan on going over 10 psi with this motor when i do put boost to it, which wont be for a year or two because i want to build up the drive train and suspension first so it can put the power to the ground without breaking anything.

i am defiantly leaning a lot more towards a supercharger because there wont be as much fab work and i can keep the headers/exhaust i have now. i have been watching the forced induction threads to help me decide but i have time to figure it out so we'll see.

so as of now i still need a 58mm throttle body to match my ported intake, a fuel system to supplement the power i am going for, probably siemens 60# injectors with a walbro 255 in tank pump (anything else i might need for fuel?), new front a-arms since the drivers side lower a-arm had a crack in it so i am going to go tubular, coilovers for the front, koni/stranos for the rear, 35mm/22mm strano hollow sways, adj LCAs, adj PHB along with a hurst short shifter and a mcleod rst clutch. that should get it driving for the summer.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I only bothered to find a single Scat cast crank thread, and there are a LOT of Eagle cast crank threads.

There are likely hundreds of LT1s with scat and Eagle cast cranks on the road and TENS OF THOUSANDS of LT1s with stock cranks on the road.

given the numbers in service if you find dozens of stock crank failures and 5 aftermarket the numbers are still wildly in favor of the stocker being better. Basic friggin math.