hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

hey guys i bought this car november 2012 as a project car and wanted a place to keep track of my progress and get advice and answers to my questions

little backround on the car:
94 z28 camaro with a 95 LT1 out of an 95 impalla ss, with the T-56 6 speed, i bought it in november for $1500 and got it halfway home and the motor started to tick....so i limped it home and it sat in the driveway while i got more info on the motor swap the previous owner did
i did a valve adjustment and drove it around town for a bit and it was fine for a little while, so i just put it away for the winter

motor specs:
forged 383 LT1 9.5:1 compression
scat crank and rods with wiseco pistons
comp cams custom boost hydraulic camshaft
specs: duration @ .050" 214/224, lift 555/568, lsa 115
LT4 timing set
comp double valve springs/1.6 roller rockers
port/polished stock aluminum heads/intake
8-10 psi turbo or supercharger kit, haven decided yet....any thought??

supporting mods:
slp CAI
pacesetter ceramic coated LT headers
off road y-pipe w/ e-cutouts
3" cat-back-not sure which brand yet....any ideas???
short shifter
stage II T-56 rebuild
dyno tune
moser 12 bolt rear
ls1 aluminum drive shaft


suspension:
tubular k-member
adj upper, tubular lower a arms
front coilovers
32mm front, 21mm rear swaybars
adj lca's, phb
c5 brake kit
black 17x9.5 front/18x10.5 rear Z06 wheels
not sure on the rear shocks/springs yet...recommendations?

interior:
speakers, head unit
2 10" subs w/1200 watt amp
5 pt roll cage
racing seats w/harnesses
new custom gauges

i want this car to be mainly a street car with auto x/ road race car and the weekends and the occasional run at the strip for fun
anyways onto the pics:
first brought it home

winter storage/workshop

i have more progress pics that i will post tomorrow

1toofastlt1

iTrader: (4)

Very cool. What kind of power are you shooting for.... supercharger will be easier but the turbo I think will make for power per psi

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Why worry about adding displacement, the stock crank will handle it well?
I don't have any turbo experience but that seems VERY short on duration even for a mild build.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

im shooting for around 500 to the wheels, the n/a motor should be around 440hp at the crank so i think i should be able to get close to 500 with 8-10 psi, dont really feel the need to go any higher than that on a mainly street car. the stock crank wouldnt hold that kind of power. and i agree supercharger would be way easier, but i love the sound of a turbo especially with a BOV lol but i havent decided yet

turtle93

Um stock crank will hold above 500 whp no sweat

englundjd

is this engine already built?

i would supercharge it. it'd be cheaper then a turbo setup and would still get your 8-10 psi (which is prolly gonna put you well over 500 hp) and you could keep your full exhaust setup.

and i would bump your compression up a little bit.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

turtle- from what ive read and been told/recommended was that i should use a forged crank/ bottom end for the boost, plus the motor in the car was kind of sketchy, it was out of a 95 impalla ss and the p.o. didnt really give any details on it and it had a bottom end tick, so i didnt want to mess with it.

engine is being built right now by Golen Engines here in NH. i figure i will drive it n/a for a year or two before i add boost to it but i am definately leaning towards a turbo system

englundjd

ohh man. good luck

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

cut your losses and sell the car, buy a commuter car and let someone else do the oil changes.

Your plan is so bad it is the sort of thing experienced guys would post as a joke.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

first off i am not using the motor that came with the car when i bought it the only parts i am reusing off the motor are the oil pan, timing cover, heads and intake manifold and they are all still good.

second i have been working on my trucks/car since i was 14 so who the hell are you to tell me to sell it and buy a commuter car? this is my first ground up rebuild of a car but i have done a lot of research on it, read a lot of threads on this forum and others and i feel very confident in my plan of building the car. i dont have enough time to build my own engine before spring with work and other stuff going on right now.
go be an *** somewhere else bro

turtle93

I wasn't saying forged stuff was bad just that the stock crank would hold the hp but yes. In general a forged rotating asambly is better for boost if I were you I would look into e85 the boosted cars around here love it

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

yea i just wanted to be safe, it would suck to do all this work and have it blow up, it really just peace of mind i guess. cool i will look into the e85 thanks for the info!

here are some more pics...
starting to take it apart



sub frame unbolted and motor free, starting to pull the body off

body up and motor rolled out from under it






unbolted the trans

lifting the motor off the subframe

as it sits now


now it is up to date, i am going to order a new tubular k member and a-arms in the next couple days and swap the steering rack, spindles, hubs and brakes until i get the c5 brake kit

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Why such small cam?

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Also what kind of fuel setup you plan on running.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Because prob stock unported heads and he wants a bad combo going.

OP, I find it mildly amusing and slightly ironic that you want a reliable boosted daily driver..but you went with a golen motor.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

i went with a smaller cam because i am only running 8-10psi and if i were to use a bigger cam it will bleed the boost through the exhaust valves and doesnt keep it in the cylinders to make power. if i were to be running 20+psi then i would go with a bigger cam since i wouldnt be as worried about boost bleeding.

i asked golen about this when we were going over the build and he said he has made 600whp on 15psi with this camshaft in an LT1

also, the heads will be ported along with the intake.

this is not my daily, i have a truck for that

not sure on the fuel setup yet, i still have some research to do on that but i know i will need bigger injectors and probably a walbro 225 to start...any recommendations for my application??

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

Ultra clean car! Very nice. Seems like it will be a great, fun to drive car!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

those of us with quick car think your build is a joke, even concerned with overlap your cam is too short on duration, Golen's motors are mediocre on a good day, on a bad one you get one that for EXAMPLE was assembled with air crossthreading a rodbolt and delivered like that. Lasted a few thousand miles before the bearing came out.

Several guys that got upset when I told them buying Golen was a mistake have later emailed me saying "you were right about everything".

You might have been playing with cars for years but that doesn't mean you have been doing it WELL.

115LSA on a 214degree cam is beyond minimizing overlap, you could go up 10 degrees in duration and that LSA would still keep overlap at a minimum.

I stand by the spirit of my comments that you need to put the brakes on this massive joke of a build unless you have to make mistakes to learn.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

ok so i havent updated in a while, since my last post, i have my motor and i have started putting it back together and i also got my pacesetter LTs and ORY. i have decided to keep the factory front sub frame instead of getting a k member. i took the upper a arms, shocks, spindle and rack off and power washed it. i am going to clean up the rust on it and repaint it.
here is the motor when i brought it home

i also tinted the tail lights, they look darker in the pic than they actually are. i did 3 light coats

front suspension apart. i wasnt able to get the lower a arm off, the vertical bolt is stuck, i got the nut off but the bold wont come out. anyone have any ideas??

and the motor on the stand getting reassembled


i still still have to get new upper and lower a arms, 58mm throttle body, front and rear sway bars, valve covers w/gaskets, coilovers for the front and a tune along with some other small stuff, then it will be good to go for the summer.

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

ok so i havent updated in a while, since my last post, i have my motor and i have started putting it back together and i also got my pacesetter LTs and ORY. i have decided to keep the factory front sub frame instead of getting a k member. i took the upper a arms, shocks, spindle and rack off and power washed it. i am going to clean up the rust on it and repaint it.
here is the motor when i brought it home

i also tinted the tail lights, they look darker in the pic than they actually are. i did 3 light coats

front suspension apart. i wasnt able to get the lower a arm off, the vertical bolt is stuck, i got the nut off but the bold wont come out. anyone have any ideas??

and the motor on the stand getting reassembled


i still still have to get new upper and lower a arms, 58mm throttle body, front and rear sway bars, valve covers w/gaskets, coilovers for the front and a tune along with some other small stuff, then it will be good to go for the summer.