How do you feel about the LPE 211/219 cam for my daily driver?
#22
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Flushing, Michigan
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The LPE 211 and Crane 227 are both great cams and you would be happy with either, that being said I would still go with a custom grind to take advantage of what's been learned over the years.
#23
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Phoenix'97, it's more expensive, but if you don't want to have to mess around with a tune or worry about passing emissions/etc get yourself a good set of ported heads and 1.6 rockers with the stock cam. Shift points will be the same so you don't have to alter them with a tune and you can run exactly what you have now and have a significant power increase.
#24
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (31)
Phoenix'97, it's more expensive, but if you don't want to have to mess around with a tune or worry about passing emissions/etc get yourself a good set of ported heads and 1.6 rockers with the stock cam. Shift points will be the same so you don't have to alter them with a tune and you can run exactly what you have now and have a significant power increase.
#25
Again this is all research in advance. I have been back and fourth asking the same question pretty much and with other ridiculous ideas to modify my motor but with undesired results.
I will have to talk to the shop that will do this work and then arrange for the motor work with another business. If it is really better for me to keep my 5.7L LT1 350, I will gladly spend that saved money to have her done right under the requirements I am asking for.
I am listening to all of your advice and carefully considering what I can do. What I am asking for is the most performance I can get out of my LT1 without killing my motor's rated fuel mileage, daily driveability, and while being emissions compliant, INCLUDING the plug-in OBDII inspection.
I have my heart set on the higher 2.73 rear axle gear ratio, but I wish I had some drive along video to see just how "bad" driving around town is with this gear. If it's merely just a matter of the tachometer taking it's dear sweet time to reach higher power range then it shouldn't be an issue for me, that is really the ideal set-up I am looking for with my kind of driving.
I will have to talk to the shop that will do this work and then arrange for the motor work with another business. If it is really better for me to keep my 5.7L LT1 350, I will gladly spend that saved money to have her done right under the requirements I am asking for.
I am listening to all of your advice and carefully considering what I can do. What I am asking for is the most performance I can get out of my LT1 without killing my motor's rated fuel mileage, daily driveability, and while being emissions compliant, INCLUDING the plug-in OBDII inspection.
I have my heart set on the higher 2.73 rear axle gear ratio, but I wish I had some drive along video to see just how "bad" driving around town is with this gear. If it's merely just a matter of the tachometer taking it's dear sweet time to reach higher power range then it shouldn't be an issue for me, that is really the ideal set-up I am looking for with my kind of driving.
#26
Phoenix'97, it's more expensive, but if you don't want to have to mess around with a tune or worry about passing emissions/etc get yourself a good set of ported heads and 1.6 rockers with the stock cam. Shift points will be the same so you don't have to alter them with a tune and you can run exactly what you have now and have a significant power increase.
#29
A local custom shop, they work on the classic cars and they work on newer fiberglass body cars. They work on boats and motorcycles and jet skis.
Hey, they may not be Foose Design or Count Customs, but why spend the money to truck my car out-of-state? God forbid it gets in an accident, the trailer overturns, or it gets stolen. So, if I keep it local, it saves me money and I can check in on the progress with this planned restoration-modification. The work of these guys on their website leaves me with little worries.
Since I am not putting any blowers on my LT1, I am just going to stick with resurfacing of the heads with upgraded valvetrain, and then a custom grind with power, fuel economy, and emissions in mind. Apparently from other forums, I can have my cake and eat it too with a custom grind that will give better performance over stock, likely with more lower-end and even mid-range power, without being too wild.
Now, if I can find a video of an M6 f-body driving with a 2.73 rear axle, I will have a better idea of what I will get myself into. Or, to go with a 3.23.
Hey, they may not be Foose Design or Count Customs, but why spend the money to truck my car out-of-state? God forbid it gets in an accident, the trailer overturns, or it gets stolen. So, if I keep it local, it saves me money and I can check in on the progress with this planned restoration-modification. The work of these guys on their website leaves me with little worries.
Since I am not putting any blowers on my LT1, I am just going to stick with resurfacing of the heads with upgraded valvetrain, and then a custom grind with power, fuel economy, and emissions in mind. Apparently from other forums, I can have my cake and eat it too with a custom grind that will give better performance over stock, likely with more lower-end and even mid-range power, without being too wild.
Now, if I can find a video of an M6 f-body driving with a 2.73 rear axle, I will have a better idea of what I will get myself into. Or, to go with a 3.23.
#30
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
If I decide to go with the ported heads and rockers, but I still have my heart set on a different cam, now probably a custom grind modeled on the Crane 227 with emphasis on stock cam emissions if at all possible, and I assume the necessary tune, would this better suit my desire to maximize power potential within the restrictions of mileage and emissions?
Get them and prove them all wrong.
#31
A local custom shop, they work on the classic cars and they work on newer fiberglass body cars. They work on boats and motorcycles and jet skis.
Hey, they may not be Foose Design or Count Customs, but why spend the money to truck my car out-of-state? God forbid it gets in an accident, the trailer overturns, or it gets stolen. So, if I keep it local, it saves me money and I can check in on the progress with this planned restoration-modification. The work of these guys on their website leaves me with little worries.
Since I am not putting any blowers on my LT1, I am just going to stick with resurfacing of the heads with upgraded valvetrain, and then a custom grind with power, fuel economy, and emissions in mind. Apparently from other forums, I can have my cake and eat it too with a custom grind that will give better performance over stock, likely with more lower-end and even mid-range power, without being too wild.
Now, if I can find a video of an M6 f-body driving with a 2.73 rear axle, I will have a better idea of what I will get myself into. Or, to go with a 3.23.
Hey, they may not be Foose Design or Count Customs, but why spend the money to truck my car out-of-state? God forbid it gets in an accident, the trailer overturns, or it gets stolen. So, if I keep it local, it saves me money and I can check in on the progress with this planned restoration-modification. The work of these guys on their website leaves me with little worries.
Since I am not putting any blowers on my LT1, I am just going to stick with resurfacing of the heads with upgraded valvetrain, and then a custom grind with power, fuel economy, and emissions in mind. Apparently from other forums, I can have my cake and eat it too with a custom grind that will give better performance over stock, likely with more lower-end and even mid-range power, without being too wild.
Now, if I can find a video of an M6 f-body driving with a 2.73 rear axle, I will have a better idea of what I will get myself into. Or, to go with a 3.23.
#32
I can give you some hints if they won't be tinkered with too. It is in Tonawanda and it's name is spelled almost the same as the last great Republican President during the 1980's. They do claim to be able to do custom work, not just mechanical "auto restoration" like other shops I searched. I found this place by chance but I have not talked to them about the plans I have and the work I want done on my car, it's years away as I am in college right now seeking a career change.
As for tuning, in North Tonawanda, there is a place going by the name of a famous Democrat President during the 1960's. They perform dynotunes. The name should be easy to find in a google search with this provided information.
#33
I have no information on what the 227 has done before, or have forgotten. It too would most likely work with cats, but you're going to want more gear than 2.73's to take advantage. I had 4.11's in my car with the 211 cam and switched to 3.73's after figuring they were slowing me down, which they were. With an auto car you'll want a 3.42 gear, IMO. Your gas mileage will not suffer once you get used to the power and keep your foot out of it. I went from a 3.73 to a 4.56 gear with my last setup and my MPG didn't budge when driving in similar conditions.
Get them and prove them all wrong.
Get them and prove them all wrong.
As far as the ported cylinder heads, if the heads already flow well enough for naturally aspirated motors and the difference I am going to see if racing the 1/4 mile would be .5 seconds or so, the money to have those heads ported is not going to justify it, ESPECIALLY when all I am doing is seeking low-end to mid-range power to throw me in my seat for occasional short launches from a dead stop or when entering the expressway, or to aggressively pass cars driving 45/50 MPH on the expressway!
I am merely trying to get more power out of my motor within the restrictions of keeping it seemingly stock from an emissions perspective and fuel mileage perspective. It can be done since camshaft design has gone through a serious technological improvement from the late 1980's and early 1990's designs, so sayeth the other forums. I can get my performance increases while keeping the cam within the stock specs, almost, but only from a custom grind. To spend the money on head porting would be a waste for a naturally aspirated motor that won't see any strips for racing!
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 05-25-2017 at 09:22 AM.
#34
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
It's quite possible these days. There's a sticky dyno thread at the top of this forum which may be worth looking at as a reference. As far as gears, I forgot about a 3.23 ratio. Not sure how that would suffice with the two cams which are pretty much referred to as RV cams. Meaning they produce Nebraska Oak pulling torque at low rpm and have a short power curve. If it were me with an auto I'd live a little and go with a 3.42. Your acceleration with the torque produced at low rpm will be outstanding.
#36
It's quite possible these days. There's a sticky dyno thread at the top of this forum which may be worth looking at as a reference. As far as gears, I forgot about a 3.23 ratio. Not sure how that would suffice with the two cams which are pretty much referred to as RV cams. Meaning they produce Nebraska Oak pulling torque at low rpm and have a short power curve. If it were me with an auto I'd live a little and go with a 3.42. Your acceleration with the torque produced at low rpm will be outstanding.
Last edited by Phoenix'97; 05-25-2017 at 04:39 PM.
#38
Now, I have read all the opinions of M6s using higher gear ratios and yes, for highway it will bump up your mileage, if you keep the RPM down! From driving around town in lower RPM, the 2.73 gear ratio should better help me keep my RPM below 2,000. In playing around with a gear ratio/transmission speed calculator, I should be able to get away with using the 2.73 without problems of lugging my motor, I have mastered the feather foot technique.
#39
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
There is a huge misunderstanding when it comes to RPM and fuel mileage. There may be a slight influence with RPM variation, but the largest factor in fuel consumption is how much load is on the engine. If you put a lower ratio gear on the driveline it will put more load on the engine especially at lower RPM. Don't take it from me, if you want to try it, knock yourself out, but in order to take advantage of even a small profile cam for both power and running efficiently you want a gear ratio to accommodate. I think you'd be better off just staying with the 3.42. If you go out on the freeway with a 2.73 ratio you may find 6th gear is useless and you'll have to shift into 5th to go up slight inclines. At 60mph in 6th you'll be at 1000RPM. Hardly sustainable at that speed even with an RV cam. It'll also be harder on the clutch in stop/go traffic because it will take more clamping force in order to get the car moving, which means more friction.
A gear/mph calculator is on this page:
http://www.andysautosport.com/learni...r/calculators/
A gear/mph calculator is on this page:
http://www.andysautosport.com/learni...r/calculators/
#40
There is a huge misunderstanding when it comes to RPM and fuel mileage. There may be a slight influence with RPM variation, but the largest factor in fuel consumption is how much load is on the engine. If you put a lower ratio gear on the driveline it will put more load on the engine especially at lower RPM. Don't take it from me, if you want to try it, knock yourself out, but in order to take advantage of even a small profile cam for both power and running efficiently you want a gear ratio to accommodate. I think you'd be better off just staying with the 3.42. If you go out on the freeway with a 2.73 ratio you may find 6th gear is useless and you'll have to shift into 5th to go up slight inclines. At 60mph in 6th you'll be at 1000RPM. Hardly sustainable at that speed even with an RV cam. It'll also be harder on the clutch in stop/go traffic because it will take more clamping force in order to get the car moving, which means more friction.
A gear/mph calculator is on this page:
http://www.andysautosport.com/learni...r/calculators/
A gear/mph calculator is on this page:
http://www.andysautosport.com/learni...r/calculators/
Now, with the concerns for no longer being able to use 6th gear, this is not true so long as I am driving above 65mph! Again, the RPM range I am using on the expressway/interstate is 1500-2000 RPM! Even with a 2.73 gear ratio, I can still use 6th gear and to better effect than driving at 2500-3000 RPM going 65-70mph with my 3.42 gear ratio. See why I want a higher gear ratio?
Now, maybe there is something to my Jasper remanufactured LT1, although I doubt I have an RV-type cam, it could be my shorty headers. However, driving my car at 60mph in 6th gear at 1500 RPM or a little lower is no problem in my car! There is no shuttering, no audible grinding, the car has enough power to cruise at such a low RPM range. So, I am not buying the story being my motor not being able to handle it.
As far as clutch wear, the same can be said for my 3.42 gear ratio! I am constantly on and off it, engaging on inclined roads and disengaging, I am constantly shifting to higher gears and then having to coast to a stop, and in very bad city traffic, I am crawling while riding the clutch on and off. That kind of abuse is the norm for city driving! Gear ratio has no impact on it! The only difference with a 2.73 that I am seeing, I will idle at a faster speed at 1000 RPM than with my 3.42. For city driving and feathering the gas pedal like I do, this is a good thing to be able to do, move faster with little effort from the motor. It sounds contradictory but it is true for my application.