ManMuchwano93z28

Hey guys I was shopping around the net and came across a edlebrock intake with a air gap design.. Long story short I can buy it for 350 is it worth it doesn't anyone run it and what kinda hp numbers did it make..???

93M6Formula

This has been beaten to death......
But simple answer, it's not worth it at all. Don't even think about wasting your money on it. They have proven to not gain a damn thing.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

A shop in PA did a dyno test for a car magazine. I did the tuning. It made less power than the stock manifold! They contacted Edelbrock and were told "It needs our heads also to take advantage of the manifold", so they sent the magazine guy a free set of their heads to go with it. :-)

The magazine writer (also the engine & car owner) then re-wrote the article to make everything look good. I have been involved with too many magazine articles to pay much attention to them. My advice is to never believe flowery write ups you read about new parts. Understand, there is a good chance the guy writing it got the parts for free to do the write up, and then gets to keep and use the parts or sell them and pocket the money. Surely all those guys aren't parts ****** like that, but I have run into too many that are. I hardly even read car magzines anymore. Kinda soured me.

BOOSTED AFR

Heard that,

I have an Edelbrock LT4 Air Gap that has like 50 miles on it. Bought it just to match the port layout on my new AFR 210s that are waiting around for just the right Cadillac Fleetwood However, I refuse to use it until I get it ported or I can find a factory LT4, everyone just wants too much money for them.

ManMuchwano93z28

Wow I guess I won't be buying that thing lol thanks for the info guys.. This is y I always ask before I buy something for my lt1 you guys saved me a headache

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

As bad as guys on here carry on about what a restriction the factory manifold is, you would think Edelbrock could improve on it.

Kinda shoots that terrible restriction story down, doesn't it. LMAO

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I've had half a dozen different intakes on my LT1, the only real reason to run the factory style is the clearance issues. As far as the design, while not ideal it is hardly the place to start for more power.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I can't think of a single plane manifold car that has come across my dyno that made any more power than the ported factory manifold cars.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

This thread confirms it:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/5929007-post13.html

It's exactly why I sold mine years ago and kept the stock manifold.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Think he is comparing it to a stock factory manifold? Mine showed nothing like that. To do a factory manifold correctly, IMHO, is to cut the top off so the runner entry can be addressed. I have found more flow there than down inside. You just can not do that nearly as well from the bottom. My results were 5 ft lbs increase below 6000, and fell behind above 6000, higher you went the worse it looked. Compared to my Hogan it was even worse. The Hogan has longer runners than the factory piece, so only looked a tad better below 5200. This was on an engine dyno, so no converter flash in the equation. My converter flashes to 6200, so it would look worse everywhere on a chassis dyno.
A lot depends on who ported the factory manifold. I had $3500.00 tied up in the whole single plane deal in port work, manifold, fuel rails, two elbows (Wilson & Edelbrock) and the Wilson TB adapter plate. Pretty disappointing. Almost a tenth slower on the track too. I know we don't race dynos, so don't believe anything I see there with regards to intakes or headers (bitten too many time both places over the years) down almost 2 MPH too. Didn't have near that in my ported LT4 manifold. Of course, you could walk into the Chevy dealer and buy one at the time I bought it. Had it fifteen years now.

Btw, if that is a stick car I might agree with his statement about the range you want to make the biggest gains, and that is if he knows how to drive one, which is leaving above 8000 RPM. If it's down below 6500, it might slow an automatic car.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I should have added, I ran a stock one with the top opened up, it cost way too much and I should have just left the stock one alone. Only figured that out after spending money on 2 sheet metal intakes and two carb intakes.