Another One Bits The Dust!!! With Pics
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Damn, sorry to see that OP. How many miles were on it when it went?
I have a cast Scat in my 385. It was checked and balanced before assembly. 5 years later and still no problems or did I just jynx myself?
I have a cast Scat in my 385. It was checked and balanced before assembly. 5 years later and still no problems or did I just jynx myself?
OLDER aftermarket cast cranks were not the problem newer stuff is and Sact is better than Eagle.
Besides that does your 385 actually make any power?
A friend has a cast Scat in a stroker(third gen with LT1 swap) from probably 7-8 years ago, last I heard it was going fine. Engine is a 383 with some TPIS crappily CNC'd AFRs and a big TPIS cam, ran about as well on ET streets as my old 190cc AI setup ran on street tires with the slicks and tools in the trunk. Point being, it doesn't make the power of a decent heads/cam car.
Besides that does your 385 actually make any power?
A friend has a cast Scat in a stroker(third gen with LT1 swap) from probably 7-8 years ago, last I heard it was going fine. Engine is a 383 with some TPIS crappily CNC'd AFRs and a big TPIS cam, ran about as well on ET streets as my old 190cc AI setup ran on street tires with the slicks and tools in the trunk. Point being, it doesn't make the power of a decent heads/cam car.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
OLDER aftermarket cast cranks were not the problem newer stuff is and Sact is better than Eagle.
Besides that does your 385 actually make any power?
A friend has a cast Scat in a stroker(third gen with LT1 swap) from probably 7-8 years ago, last I heard it was going fine. Engine is a 383 with some TPIS crappily CNC'd AFRs and a big TPIS cam, ran about as well on ET streets as my old 190cc AI setup ran on street tires with the slicks and tools in the trunk. Point being, it doesn't make the power of a decent heads/cam car.
Besides that does your 385 actually make any power?
A friend has a cast Scat in a stroker(third gen with LT1 swap) from probably 7-8 years ago, last I heard it was going fine. Engine is a 383 with some TPIS crappily CNC'd AFRs and a big TPIS cam, ran about as well on ET streets as my old 190cc AI setup ran on street tires with the slicks and tools in the trunk. Point being, it doesn't make the power of a decent heads/cam car.
When it was tracked the car had, 3.42's, full weight car including an audio system (2 subs, 2 amps etc), street tires, 2800 stall...ran 12.2's @115+ w/ 2.0 60 ft times.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: Mount Sterling KY
I think it's junk. Too often their rods need re-sized right out of the box, crank journals not dead nuts on size, guys just taking this stuff out of the box (especially checking bearing clearances with plastigauge) don't know the difference. Just wonder what happened when they lose a bearing, etc. I know of two shops that now refuse to balance Eagle cranks, telling me they take too long due to the counterweights being wrong. Nobody buying that kind of stuff can't afford, or don't want to pay for, the difference for the balancing. I have used Scat for years, as have several shops I know, and have never seen any of this. Machine works has always been dead on. I would not use anybodies cast crank in anything.
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Verdad Gallardo So just got done tearing the short block down and #8 Cylinder has a crack in it. I'll try to wheel it out tomorrow and take a pic. I think this block maybe junk. If so the wife is gonna have one hell of an expensive planter for her plants.
Hey Ed Got any spare parts lol. J/k I doubt I'd be able to afford anything right now.
Hey Ed Got any spare parts lol. J/k I doubt I'd be able to afford anything right now.
I think it's junk. Too often their rods need re-sized right out of the box, crank journals not dead nuts on size, guys just taking this stuff out of the box (especially checking bearing clearances with plastigauge) don't know the difference. Just wonder what happened when they lose a bearing, etc. I know of two shops that now refuse to balance Eagle cranks, telling me they take too long due to the counterweights being wrong. Nobody buying that kind of stuff can't afford, or don't want to pay for, the difference for the balancing. I have used Scat for years, as have several shops I know, and have never seen any of this. Machine works has always been dead on. I would not use anybodies cast crank in anything.
My Eagle forged crank was no problem to balance. Only issues I have is the centering flange is oversized so flywheels need to be cut a few thousandths and the pilot hole is oversized so I have to "custom" fit a bushing. No great shakes. No metal needed to be added and it's survived 7000+ rpm for the last several years.
My Eagle forged crank was no problem to balance. Only issues I have is the centering flange is oversized so flywheels need to be cut a few thousandths and the pilot hole is oversized so I have to "custom" fit a bushing. No great shakes. No metal needed to be added and it's survived 7000+ rpm for the last several years.
They wouldn't use the Eagle rods I had and told me to get Compstars, so I complied. Engine is silky smooth throughout the entire RPM band. I have total faith the machine shop I used built the engine correctly. Again, it has over 15K miles on it and plenty of 7200rpm jaunts.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
My Eagle forged crank was no problem to balance. Only issues I have is the centering flange is oversized so flywheels need to be cut a few thousandths and the pilot hole is oversized so I have to "custom" fit a bushing. No great shakes. No metal needed to be added and it's survived 7000+ rpm for the last several years.
green locktite on pilot bearing or use brass "shim" material around the pilot bearing. I did this on a motor before. .005" shim stock
on FW I have had stock OEM fit fine and exploding wallet billet aftermarket ones slightly tight on the hub hole. I choose not to draw on FW that are tight with the bolts as metal will distort. took emery cloth on the inside of that FW and it took care of that problem. I was surprised on how little effort and time it took to open the FW hole up some using emery cloth wheel on a dremal.
IMHO I would not run a cast crank unless it was a stock OEM one. stroker crank, get forged.
Yes, Eagle's answer was to give me the option of an oversized bushing or a knurled bearing. I asked for both and decided on the bushing. I have since used a kevlar bushing and resorted back to using bearings. The crank flange was out a few thousandths. If I ever need a new one I just take it back to the machine shop who built it and they know what to do. They have a book on me. 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Yes, Eagle's answer was to give me the option of an oversized bushing or a knurled bearing. I asked for both and decided on the bushing. I have since used a kevlar bushing and resorted back to using bearings. The crank flange was out a few thousandths. If I ever need a new one I just take it back to the machine shop who built it and they know what to do. They have a book on me.