cardo0

Thx AC.

cardo

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

It can be done by sound with the engine running but I wouldnt spin to 7k that way. Not a chance.

shbox

Do all your posts end up this way? Everyone knows what the books say and agree with it (all that good stuff is on my website-so why did you not thank me in addition to AC?). No one said they didn't agree. Plus, years of wrenching by people that know what they are doing, also provides another acceptable way of doing it. You can't seem to live with anything that is not in a book somewhere.

cardo0

I don't need to attack others just to post legitimate advice either. Books identify the real experts. Like GM doesn't know what they are doing in their maintenance manual? GM dosen't have years of wrenching?
So now I need to read your website before I post and thank you first for correct information? How humble of you.

Good night,
cardo

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

On behalf of all of us "highly experienced mechanics", thanks for pointing out to us that we've been performing this procedure incorrectly all these years......



To "quick95", one advantage of adjusting the valve lash with the engine running (hydraulic lifters only) is that the engine is warmed up, all the metal parts have heat expanded to their full growth, and therefore the adjustment is quite accurate, especially if you're using the "short travel" lifters.

shbox

LOL, I was just pointing out that you give credit to someone agreeing with you, when that info was out there under your nose all the time. What if AC had referenced my website? You probably never would have responded. I really am humbled by the fact that hundreds of people use my website every day for information.

You just don't get it. No one ever disputed anything that your books say. You persist in defending some sort of wrongful accusation that was never there. All that was said was that it is possible to adjust valves with the engine running. But since no book you have has that method, you say it is wrong. The thousands of people using it over the years would probably (and do) differ in opinion.

cardo0

No u don't get it. U can't just post the truth or even just your method/experience/advice. It becomes a fight if what i say doesn't agree with what you say or have said or even posted on your w/s (which i no longer use). U have to attack anyone that doesn't agree with u or your not so accurate w/s. Then once your fan club arrives u start making personal attacks.

And now u don't make any sense fantasizing "what if" AC had posted something else and accusing me of something negligent. I think u have mental and emotional problems now and need help. If u had real humility u remove your "Donations Welcome" notice and deposit info off your w/s and try helping others without expecting compensation.


U don't even read your own posts and what u have said. Like in post #13 u say "I hate to keep calling the guy out, but gee." Now u say "You persist in defending some sort of wrongful accusation that was never there." All i posted was to use the finger roll method and not to use noise to determine zero lash. I called out no one. I attacked no one. But hopefully i helped a newbie save his cam and lifters - maybe his entire engine.

U need to a psychologist,
cardo

cardo0

Ya know, adjusting the valves is one of the easiest ways to destroy your engine. All lot experienced enthusiasts take it for granted and gives the new/never done before owner the wrong impression - its overly easy and the bad results are not realized.
Too little adjustment and the lifter can slap the lobe - bent p-rods, wiped lobes/lifters.
Too much adjustment and the lifter holds the vlv open - broken studs, bent p-rods, burnt valves, backfires.
Either way the vlv train has a shortened life - possibly enough metal loose inside engine to destroy all bearings also.

Important keys here:
-be positive your lifter(s) are on the base circle of cam for the cyl your working on - u need to be certain your on the base circle of cam for the valves/lifters/lobes your adjusting.
-zero lash is when u can still roll the p-rod with your fingers side to side - rocker nut not tight enough to stop p-rod from rolling with just your fingers.
-if u can move the p-rod up or down at all then not at zero lash.
-if u can't roll p-rod with fingers then rocker nut to tight - it can be a little draggy.
-don't assume here, this makes irreversible damage once u start the engine if not correctly set.
-take enough time to read up and draw some diagrams if needed until u fully understand the piston order for TDC and lifter position for fully closed and valves in overlap.

Hope this helps,
cardo

shbox

You did, in fact, call out all the people that adjust lifters running. You basically said [to paraphrase] 'sorry, you can't do it that way'. Numerous people refuted that. Bad advice is worse than no advice. That is where we always seem to conflict and I hate to see someone get bad advice.

If your 'important keys' are correct, then you have validated the information on my 'not so accurate' website. I never said you always give bad advice.

A donation, by it's essence, is not an expectation of compensation.

I'm done responding to anything you say or post, since you don't seem to be able to rationally understand.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Attacking shoebox now? Telling him he has emotional problems because he doesn't agree with you? Yeah, you're high.

These arguments are older than you are, and like those who've argued which is the "best method" you never have once proven your argument. GM also states to adjust a rocker 3/4 to a full turn, yet no one in the performance world does that... except you.

EOIC you say? Here's a video explaining it:

cardo0

Your so wacked out u don't know the difference between a threat and an apology. I said i'm sorry but the correct method uses feel not noise. Yes, i said i'm sorry to inform the OP of this! If u see that as a threat or challenge u need professional medical help. Your having to distort everything i say tells me your either mentally unstable or hiding something. How much do make from that website of yours? Is it so much its worth protecting by defending here with personal attacks? U say "in fact" i called out all the people is another fantasy, fabrication or a bold lie that anyone can see. I started my statement with a sympathetic "I'm sorry" which becomes a threat only to u because u need to protect your crappy information that u receive (undeclared?) income from. Your first response was fine and non combative but once your fan club shows up u start the accusations and attacks. U can't just post your understanding/experience/method but have to defend something - like your nest egg w/s. A donation is a compensation when given to a solicitation for help and the IRS even recognizes that. Are u poor and need to eat? Then why do u need to solicit for donations?
Now u say your done responding and now i'm guessing that will soon be a lie also. I don't reference u in my posts (until u begin personal attacks - i will defend myself) let alone call u out and i just wish u could/would do the same. But u don't or won't. U just keep whining and whining.

See a doctor soon,
cardo

cardo0

I didn't try to prove anything. I shared what i know has worked for me and what the legitimate sources i have say in print.
Where did i say to adjust a rocker to 3/4 to a full turn?? Like i don't know thats wrong. U want to fabricate statements for me too? Looking at my posts i don't read anything i said about "the best method" either. In fact i only described the zero lash portion of setting the valves.
But if u want to have a fit about something just set your valves to 1 full turn and wipe your cam/vlv train.
BTW i couldn't afford to get high as it's not worth it for me or my career. I'm more sober than any motor head should be.

I won't download your video on my computer - maybe someone else's,
cardo

bdblevins

iTrader: (2)

Some people believe everything in The National Enquirer !

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Really? Your GM "maintenance manual" states to adjust lifters 3/4 to one full turn. You want to refute that even though:
A bag of wet hair just started a conversation with more substance. Gotta go.

P.S. You're high.

bowtiedad_z28

iTrader: (4)

Hmm!!! I wonder why Mr. Tony Shepherd told me the best way to do it is with the engine running. I guess he is wrong too? Lol

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

I have been setting them hot with the engine running for 20 + years. Back it off till it clicks, tighten to remove clicking then 1/4 turn. Works great. I have a valve cover with the center cut out but only to allow enough room to make adjustments and contain as much of the oil as possible. I also use a piece of cardboard cut into a rectangle sprayed with a little water that fits between the valve cover and shock tower.

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Here is a question for you cardo or whatever the **** your name is . Have you ever actually set valves before? Have you ever built an engine?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Probably not, but he's read dozens of books on how to.....

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

What ever about the oil, mine has late model lifters and mine just dribble. Doesn't make much of a mess. Back in the day the lifters squirted all the way over the fenders.

One thing that's easy to do and will help. Put a shop towel over the heal of your hand and press down on the rockers one at a time. The rocker should get loose and start making noise as you press and then quickly shut up when you release pressure. Just a quick check to see if the lifter is able to recover.

Al 95 Z28

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I was going to post in this thread but I feel any actual technical information and/or experience will be lost.