Valve Lash Engine running
#1
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Valve Lash Engine running
I am going to do a valve lash adjustment while the engine is running, I've read the shbox guide and a few others and lots of videos but I cant seem to figure out how much oil is going to be involved (leaking out)
How messy is this job? I know your suppose to do it on a warm engine and I am going to go a half turn past zero lash (clicking stops + half turn).
Should I set up a barrier in front of the manifolds (factory manifolds still) or if i am quick enough (not rushing though) do I not really need to worry about the oil?
I am planning on doing one bank at a time, removing/installed the driver side valve cover with the engine off and removing the passenger side then restarting to motor and adjusting that bank to minimize the oil loss.
Thanks!
How messy is this job? I know your suppose to do it on a warm engine and I am going to go a half turn past zero lash (clicking stops + half turn).
Should I set up a barrier in front of the manifolds (factory manifolds still) or if i am quick enough (not rushing though) do I not really need to worry about the oil?
I am planning on doing one bank at a time, removing/installed the driver side valve cover with the engine off and removing the passenger side then restarting to motor and adjusting that bank to minimize the oil loss.
Thanks!
#2
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For some reason, of which I don't know, the LT1s do NOT pump a lot of oil up the pushrods, through the rockers, and all over the place. I've been adjusting rockers on both 1st gen SBCs, as well as Pontiacs, with the engine running, for close to 40 years. Both of those engines splashed oil all over. My '96 LT1, hardly any.
For insurance purposes, finish off your box of Cheerios, cut the box in half, then fold it in half, and secure it together with a couple of strips of duct tape. Warm the engine, then remove 1 valve cover. Use the cereal box as a deflector, as you adjust the valves on one bank of cylinders. When done, remove the deflector, re-install the valve cover, then repeat for the other side.
Good luck!
For insurance purposes, finish off your box of Cheerios, cut the box in half, then fold it in half, and secure it together with a couple of strips of duct tape. Warm the engine, then remove 1 valve cover. Use the cereal box as a deflector, as you adjust the valves on one bank of cylinders. When done, remove the deflector, re-install the valve cover, then repeat for the other side.
Good luck!
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sweet thanks! yah no extra valve covers, yet. The rockers on the driver side seemed really tight, I backed them off probably 2 turns before i even heard a noise.
then when the clank clank started i tightened until it stopped then went half a turn more.
The car sounds alot crisper out the exhaust. i havent drove it yet but it did sound quiet a bit better is that normal?
then when the clank clank started i tightened until it stopped then went half a turn more.
The car sounds alot crisper out the exhaust. i havent drove it yet but it did sound quiet a bit better is that normal?
#6
Sorry but u need to adjust them by feel not noise. The zero lash at idle is absolutely no up and down movement with your fingers on the p-rod but the p-rod can still roll side to side using your fingers. No telling where zero lash is using sound.
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
#7
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If you are intuitive enough and have a decent ear, adjusting them running and by sound is perfectly fine. Some tin foil can also be crumpled in the right way to make a deflector. Like leadfoot4 said, some of the oldies really squirted the oil out. My SBC used to squirt the oil onto the fenders of my 57 Chevy. LT1s, not so much.
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#8
If you are intuitive enough and have a decent ear, adjusting them running and by sound is perfectly fine. Some tin foil can also be crumpled in the right way to make a deflector. Like leadfoot4 said, some of the oldies really squirted the oil out. My SBC used to squirt the oil onto the fenders of my 57 Chevy. LT1s, not so much.
I made a big o mess with a sbc in an s10.
I like the tin fol idea also.
#9
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Sorry but u need to adjust them by feel not noise. The zero lash at idle is absolutely no up and down movement with your fingers on the p-rod but the p-rod can still roll side to side using your fingers. No telling where zero lash is using sound.
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
MANY skilled mechanics have been using the "engine running method" for MANY years, with 100% success.....
#10
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I shove a valve cover gasket box in the head infront of all the springs to deflect the squirts works perfectly.. You won't be fast enough to do this and not get oil on the manifolds without protection
#11
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Exactly.
You're high.
Sorry but u need to adjust them by feel not noise. The zero lash at idle is absolutely no up and down movement with your fingers on the p-rod but the p-rod can still roll side to side using your fingers. No telling where zero lash is using sound.
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
Sorry for the bad news,
cardo
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thanks guys, yeah thats what i thought too, once it went clank clank clank, i very finely tighened until it stopped and then went a half turn.
Why were they so tight though? took about two full turns to back them off lol i guess it dosent matter since if they were to tight the car wouldent run right?
Why were they so tight though? took about two full turns to back them off lol i guess it dosent matter since if they were to tight the car wouldent run right?
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#19
[QUOTE=leadfoot4;17416155]NO, I think it's more like "sorry for the incorrect news".
Then show me one just one shop manual that says to use noise to set the lifters. None that I now of. Vizard, Bachtel, Chiltons, GM, i guess they all missed your great technique. Maybe u need reading lessons.
And your a flake as with nothing to say that would possibly help the OP proves it.
Who the heck are u? I've never even bothered to waste my efforts on u. Is there something wrong with using zero lash using your fingers like every manual and "how to" book ive ever read says to? Some one gets their butt hurt every time i or anyone else try share some good legitimate advice. Must be some serious self righteous hack mechanics here as there's no help'n someone that gets flamed just by reading good legitimate advice as given to others.
I could care less if u want to set your vlvs by noise. And u may well be very good at it. But just trying to help a first timer get it right his first try using the way the books say to cooks your rear then so be it. Truth hurts.
So am i lying? Do all those shop manuals lie too? U say u call me out, well then u must be calling Vizard, Bechtel, Chiltons, GM out too. Why does it u hurt so bad to tell a newbie how the book says to do it? I don't know whats wrong with your head but as soon as your fan club arrives u get negative with me really fast. I don't care how good your website is, if u don't like what i said then just prove me wrong or shut up. I know i didn't post something that would mislead the first timer let alone ruin just one lobe because he didn't hear it correctly - or fail to/miss hear it.
Enough said,
cardo
Then show me one just one shop manual that says to use noise to set the lifters. None that I now of. Vizard, Bachtel, Chiltons, GM, i guess they all missed your great technique. Maybe u need reading lessons.
And your a flake as with nothing to say that would possibly help the OP proves it.
Who the heck are u? I've never even bothered to waste my efforts on u. Is there something wrong with using zero lash using your fingers like every manual and "how to" book ive ever read says to? Some one gets their butt hurt every time i or anyone else try share some good legitimate advice. Must be some serious self righteous hack mechanics here as there's no help'n someone that gets flamed just by reading good legitimate advice as given to others.
I could care less if u want to set your vlvs by noise. And u may well be very good at it. But just trying to help a first timer get it right his first try using the way the books say to cooks your rear then so be it. Truth hurts.
Enough said,
cardo