Numba20

iTrader: (1)

i would but i cant get the OBD2 port to connect to the computer. i bought a moates cable and been running datamaster and tunerpro. it says the cable is functional and working. but it cant connect to the computer. ive traced the DLC wires all the way to he fire wall they appear to be untampered with.... but i just kida gave up... its beyond me.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

im going to try readjusting the lash and then i will give it a good thrashing. lol and note taken on the connection tips. if the problem isnt resolved, then i will give it a look see.


PCMforless did my tune and i am pleased with it. no cam surge over 1200 and i havent floored it yet but all seems tight except for brief moments. i ahve no cats. was running open Long tubes. not have a loudmouth on it.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

LOL WHUT?!?
No need to open the timing cover for a valve lash adjustment...

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

i just like to know when i am TDC. my crank pully has an idicator but i dont think it is exact. fi was wanting to adjust the the lash with the motor not running, spinning it slowly myself, but i think i would have trouble indicating when i reach the very bottom of the travel of the lifter. any tips or tricks for this? im reading shbox's instuctions on his site right now.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Get yourself a McDonalds straw. Pull out the #1 spark plug. Pull drivers valve cover off. Feed straw into plug hole. Rotate engine by hand using socket wrench on crank bolt, turn engine until the piston crushes the straw into the quench area. Note intake/exhaust valve position on #1. Valves should be both closed. If they aren't then rotate another 360*. Rotate assembly until the straw either no longer moves or is the most difficult to move back and forth. That, is a backwoods way of accurately finding TDC on #1.
Then follow this procedure (taken off of shoebox's site):
On the bolded part, before you spin the crank again to adjust the 2nd half of the valves you can then take note of where your crank pulley pointer is, turn a full 360* and you will now be able to adjust the remaining valves. If you have an aftermarket pulley then place a mark and use that as a reference when spinning the engine over.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure that you have have your cable set to the correct COM port in datamaster or tunerpro? Sounds like you don't. If not that would make it so you can't find the data through the programs. I would look in to that on the write-ups gregrob has if I were you.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

ive read most all of gregbob's stuff. i researched thoroughly on the subject. the cable was set to com3. which wasnt available until i installed the driver. the cable reads functional in both datamaster and tuner pro. but cannot detect the PCM. i tried on a friends 95 LT1 as well but he has an after market set up with hot cam and it was clear that some one had tampered with the car as well. so i dont think i can trust the current state of either cars wiring to rule that it is a technical issue outside of the cars wiring. (i dont think that it is.) but who knows. i spent a month and about $100 trying to find a way to get the stupid thing to read a damn DTC. so ive just given up on that.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

im almost done adjusting the lash. got the driver side done. im doing it with the motor non running. and turning the motor by the crank pully. spinning the pushrods until i get the slightest amount of friction. then, preloading with 1/2 turn. anyway, im on the passenger side now. got the #2 cyl done, and was working on #4, and noticed that after i adjusted and prelaoded both, that the front side rocker arm felt looser than the rear. and i was able to take my fingers and pry the rocker arm off the valve about a centimeter. is this the makings of a bad lifter?

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

founda spare set of lifters i have from a 93 LT1. are they the same as the 95's? i have about 6-7 milimeters of travel in the seat of the lifter i described. is this what is causing my backfire ya think?

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

The lifters will bleed down and seem outta spec again once you move on.. Normal providing your doing it right to begin with.. I prefer engine running method

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

i figured that out. lol when i pushed on the other lifters and they have variable give, so i got all the lash settings close enough to start the car, and started it for about 30 seconds, and rechecked the lifters and they were nice and firm. so i readjusted the pass side, and rechecked the drivers side. got the lash all zeroed out.

started the car to listen for ticking. it was good. so i waited on it for a minute or two to idle and see if it was going to show any bugs, lash related or not.

i got in the car and drove about 4 miles, moderately easy to let the car warm up.

once warm, i turned around and headed back home towards one of the few mile long straight aways that tennessee roads have. lol

on the way there cruising in 6th at about 1.5k rpm, a slight miss and small pop out the pipes really ticked me off. lol it was kind of a mini version of what it was doing.

i decided i was already here so why not floor the SOB. lol so i slowed down to a near stop and dropped it on second in the mid of 2nd's rpm range, held it til 5th gear. and it pulled as hard a ****, and was smooth and felt great.

came home and listened to the motor again, and it all seems tight.

on a side note i think that i may have some minor fuel pressure issues...

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

i didnt think the car was going to start today. but after further examination, fuel pressure is hardly ever under 40 psi and only for a fraction of a second after a heavy rev. i dont think it is the fuel pump. im thinking it is the opti.

the car had a MSD cap and rotor on it. but it was worse for wear, earlier on in my build, i decided that the opti needed replaced. and bought a cap and rotor rebuild kit from MSD. same one that was on it.

i took apart the opti and cleaned it with carb cleaner. except the electrical connector, which i wiped with a rag and used some air can dust remover to get the residue off of it. all parts were put back together meticulously.

i noticed when i pulled the old cap, the rotor had ate into it. or the plastic shroud around each pin anyway. indicating that maybe the cap was too tight, or the rotor was too tall, or the cam dowel was too far out? the face of the rotor was ate up as well.

so i rebuilt the unit with the new pieces, and before i install i tried spinning it to find some major resistance. which i immediately knew i was going to have the same problem that the old one did with the rubbing of the rotor into the cap.

i took the old rotor which was already shorter in height from being worn, and i installed it with the new pieces to go into it from the cap and rotor kit i bought, instead of using the new plastic rotor arm. put the unit back together this way and got much less resistance. almost none. and installed it.

car started great for a few weeks, and now it has just tapered off to getting more cold blooded every time i start it. it requires throttle, and after the key is let off of cranking it will spit and sputter like it was just about to start. the rotor screws backing out wouldnt do this would they? i mean once the the car is started, it will immediately die it it is not given gas for the first 3-4 seconds. after that, it idles awesome, drives awesome. abolutely no problems all the way to 5800 RPM. (my redline)

i want to know for sure that it is the opti before i take out this sorry water pump again.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

also, im back on the track trying to find a way to read my codes. pin #9 on the DLC is the ALDL signal and it is port D30 on the ECU. so if i get my feed right out of the ECU and jump to the #9 pin connector on my moates cable, and then hook up my ground, it should read if my problem is wiring in the car right? and additional the codes can be read with the ign on only right? it does not have to be running?

Nastyc4

iTrader: (13)

If it was mechanical I doubt it would be intermittent. My first guess is the opti.

I like to mention this about the coolant sensor because I chased a hot stumble and no start for a while before I found it.. the temp sensor on the front of the water pump had corroded and was reading something like -250 degrees. cleaned the sensor and fixed it up. couldnt hurt to check it I guess.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

i was severly let down to find that my plan did not work. i took 3 home made wires ( female on one end and male on the other) and tried going directly to the ECU. tapped into the D30 wire (DTC signal wire) and hooked it the the #9 pin on my connector, then the D20 wire and hooked it to #6 port another signal wire (wasnt sure if it was needed) then grounded 4 and 5 to a ground post just in front of the pass wheel well. so it must not be wiring. if my computer executes all the functions of the car correctly is there a possibility that it is in some way incapable of giving trouble code info or comunicating at all? if it is not that then i have missed something along the line trying to set up these scanner programs or the moates cable is not set up correctly. which i did not believe was the case, but my method bypassed any chance of a wiring problem, and still same result as before...

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

basically i am piddling around with ****, avoiding taking that opti out again. as i hate it with a passion. but i am going to break down and do that soon. so ill check the sensor when i pull the water pump.

a weeping waterpump couldnt be causing that could it? i wouldnt think so... but i did notice mine had a few tears.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Haha gregbob that sounds so hillbilly, too bad gregrob stopped hanging around here.

I gotta commend you, you've come VERY far since you first started posting here, you've really learned alot and congrats on getting the car as far as you have. You will get it all worked out soon, don't give up! As far as the opti, think of it this way, all the bolts are fresh and youve done it a few times, you'll have the opti off in less than 30 minutes. It might be time to just get a whole new gm unit, I don't know if summit still has that nice price.

5800 is low for that cam, I forgot what springs your running but 63-6400 should be where you take it once you get your fuel/spark issues worked out. You put in 30lb injectors iirc which is right, and 40psi is close so I wouldnt really point the finger there yet. Check over your wires in the dark with a spray bottle first, and push all connections tight. Then opti teardown. After that I'd call every dyno in a reasonable distance and find out when they are having a dyno day for a club, whether it be mustang, gto, vette, import whatever because you can get 3 pulls with AF for $50-60 and get a log to send to pcm4less to adjust your tune.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

well i just had to tell you all! i put in a new opti, and the car starts jiffy quick! and it runs flawlessly. great pressure, no leaks, the low oil light will come on sometimes when i first turn on the ignition, then i pull out key and turn it back on and it goes out. got that, and a fuel level sending unit, clear this check engine light, and the car will litterally not have a flaw. it is now my DD! gahh this is exciting! lol

VAformula

iTrader: (8)

Good job man! Be sure to post vids to show use what you've got! Its should be a fun ride.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Break-in periods are for flat tappet motors.

Hydraulic roller motors just need to idle for a while, change the oil once or twice, let it get to operating temp, then beat on it. (with a baseline tune of sorts)