measured my pushrods, how this look
measured my pushrods, how this look I ran two seperate lengths. pretty close to stock.
this is 10 turns stock length
this is 11 turns 7.3
which one looks better or should i still look for a more thin line? 7.3 pretty much centered it right up should i go longer a little bit and see if it gets thinner? thanks guys
this is 10 turns stock length
this is 11 turns 7.3
which one looks better or should i still look for a more thin line? 7.3 pretty much centered it right up should i go longer a little bit and see if it gets thinner? thanks guys
oops thats my fault it was 12..
lifter is solid as well i took it apart and washered it up.
i havent done many and i didnt know if that line looked too thick. it centered nicely though i thought
lifter is solid as well i took it apart and washered it up.
i havent done many and i didnt know if that line looked too thick. it centered nicely though i thought
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You can buy dial calipers long enough to measure pushrods at Harbour Freight. Would not measure bearings with it, but I feel like it's good enough for pushrods. I don't trust counting turns. First, the checking pushrods I have had are never exactly the length that say, so you could order the wrong length.
Don't be surprised to find your new custom pushrods to vary .015" or more, one to the next. LOL
Don't be surprised to find your new custom pushrods to vary .015" or more, one to the next. LOL
Last edited by Ed Wright; May 28, 2013 at 09:25 PM.
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Either the Trickflow's or Comp's work from everything I've read, easily the 2 most popular. Although someone with more experience may chime in here. I'll be doing this next year with my AI H/C combo.
Should the pushrod length that gives the best pattern be adjusted to account for lifter preload (turns past zero lash).
7/16-20 thread stud, one turn equals .050 so a half turn preload will sink the lifter plunger .025, would the optimum pushrod length then be 'best pattern length + desired lifter preload (half turn .025)?
Or is this just splitting hairs?
7/16-20 thread stud, one turn equals .050 so a half turn preload will sink the lifter plunger .025, would the optimum pushrod length then be 'best pattern length + desired lifter preload (half turn .025)?
Or is this just splitting hairs?
wow. i just ran into a problem and im checking my thread for my measurements. i cant believe i did this. 6.8-7.8 pushrod length tool. 10 turns is not 7.2 how the hell did i add that wrong. i measured like 3 times and then did simple math wrong. brilliant
Like stated, you can get a digital caliper from Harbor Freight that is close enough accuracy to measure most pushrods for like $20 bucks. No guessing and estimating number of turns on a PR checker
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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^^^
use a stock 7.200 to get a base pattern mark on valve tip. Then use a caliper to set the adjustable PR check tool .250" +/- more or less depending which way you need to go. "Generally" with decked heads & block you need slightly shorter. Many aftermarket PR come in lengths with incriments of .250 in length
If the pattern is closer to intake, get longer PR. if towards exhaust side of head, get shorter. Yeah you can order custom PR at any length say a 7.087 as example....but the diff between that and a 7.100" is nothing...unless you are building a $50k NASCAR motor so just order a 7.100 off the shelf.
More important, IMHO, is get a thicker .080 wall PR to reduce PR flex. Hardened PR are required if using guideplates for NSA RR
use a stock 7.200 to get a base pattern mark on valve tip. Then use a caliper to set the adjustable PR check tool .250" +/- more or less depending which way you need to go. "Generally" with decked heads & block you need slightly shorter. Many aftermarket PR come in lengths with incriments of .250 in length
If the pattern is closer to intake, get longer PR. if towards exhaust side of head, get shorter. Yeah you can order custom PR at any length say a 7.087 as example....but the diff between that and a 7.100" is nothing...unless you are building a $50k NASCAR motor so just order a 7.100 off the shelf.
More important, IMHO, is get a thicker .080 wall PR to reduce PR flex. Hardened PR are required if using guideplates for NSA RR
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Las Vegas
Come on guys this aint rocket science. For a street motor i believe here? Those marks look great as u just want to keep the rocker off/away from the edge where it can cause side loading.
I hate those adj p-rods. I have one and tried to use it once and realized thats for a an engine on the stand, not one in the car. Just bought both a Manley and ProForm p-rod checker for like 10 bucks and found my p-rod length in seconds - not hours.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pr...FRGCfgodsVkAgQ
And like Ed said my new p-rods from Trick Flow came like 0.005" different than the number etched on the p-rod but still worked great.
Let the NASCAR kids play with the adj p-rod checker,
cardo0
I hate those adj p-rods. I have one and tried to use it once and realized thats for a an engine on the stand, not one in the car. Just bought both a Manley and ProForm p-rod checker for like 10 bucks and found my p-rod length in seconds - not hours.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pr...FRGCfgodsVkAgQ
And like Ed said my new p-rods from Trick Flow came like 0.005" different than the number etched on the p-rod but still worked great.
Let the NASCAR kids play with the adj p-rod checker,
cardo0
Last edited by cardo0; Dec 11, 2013 at 05:32 AM. Reason: wrong mfr
