396 daily driver builds
06-12-2013, 09:39 AM
#41
2. Anyway.....my Impala put down 419HP at the wheels and 450TQ to the wheels with a hydrualic roller cam in a 396ci setup.
3. Current set-up is a 398ci solid roller combination......dynotune and timeslips are pending.
KW
06-12-2013, 09:44 AM
#42
.......yeah.....as mentioned......I read his statement as 500HP to the rear wheels versus his statement of 500 to the flywheel 
.I use Comp grinds exclusively.....but I'd be damned if I let them spec it for me.
KW
06-12-2013, 09:52 AM
#43
So.....whatever you believe (or "understand") concerning what I'm "convinced" of is pretty much off base.
KW
06-12-2013, 10:36 AM
#45
Yeah.....you can build a 400+ rear wheel HP LT1, that will go deep into the 11's, and be suitable as a daily driver to the tune of 12K+ miles per year.
Which, as I see it.....is something that we actually do agree on.
KW
06-12-2013, 11:12 AM
#46
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
Wait, I'm confused. Which something is it we agree on? The 500 flywheel hp is not difficult to achieve or just over 400rwhp in a f-body will net low 11's? If it's the latter, low 11's in a f-body with just over 400rwhp is going to take weight reduction. I also think an apology is in order. Richard has sensitive feelings.
06-12-2013, 12:43 PM
#47
500fwhp/400rrhp can be made to be a good daily driver without much heartburn if the spec's are right.
And I've seen a lot of claims that 400 rrhp in a f-body getting into the 11.2-11.4 range. I have no direct experience with this.....I'm strictly a B-body guy. If you say weight reduction is needed to get there, I have no basis for rejecting the statement.
And if Richard is sensitive, I've been told there's products out there to wash the sand out of his mangina.....
KW
06-12-2013, 01:37 PM
#48
I run these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-221443-16
as suggested from my builder. Kinda sucks replacing them, but since I only drive my pile about three times a year... when it's off jackstands...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-221443-16
as suggested from my builder. Kinda sucks replacing them, but since I only drive my pile about three times a year... when it's off jackstands...
06-12-2013, 06:35 PM
#49
First there's RamAir.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=39751
According to his dyno numbers he's over 500hp. Pushing 124mph through the traps is also a good indicator as such. Then there's some dolt named speed_demon24 who, on a stock block is going through the traps at 120 at full weight and the wrong gearing. I think he dynoed somewhere in the 420 range on a M6. Both indicate just shy of 500. Best I've ran with my hodge podge combo is 122.8 in a 3700lb car which also indicated right around 500rwhp. Dynoed 440rwhp on a Mustang dyno. I don't really count mine because it's on a mild solid roller. It's as streetable as stock, but because springs have to be changed out about every 20K miles I don't consider that a practical street application, however the other two mentioned could easily be used daily.
From what I understand he has a 396 that runs high 11's and is convinced anything faster is unpossible to live on the street.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=39751
According to his dyno numbers he's over 500hp. Pushing 124mph through the traps is also a good indicator as such. Then there's some dolt named speed_demon24 who, on a stock block is going through the traps at 120 at full weight and the wrong gearing. I think he dynoed somewhere in the 420 range on a M6. Both indicate just shy of 500. Best I've ran with my hodge podge combo is 122.8 in a 3700lb car which also indicated right around 500rwhp. Dynoed 440rwhp on a Mustang dyno. I don't really count mine because it's on a mild solid roller. It's as streetable as stock, but because springs have to be changed out about every 20K miles I don't consider that a practical street application, however the other two mentioned could easily be used daily.
From what I understand he has a 396 that runs high 11's and is convinced anything faster is unpossible to live on the street.
06-12-2013, 07:16 PM
#52
Im no spring expert but what really is the definition of a beehive valve springs? A single spring? lol
Could the spring life be shortened because of the lack of driving? I know driving my stock LT1 once in a blue moon puts some overall wear on the engine. Kinda like sleeping for 2 days straight then getting up and trying to run a marathon..
Could the spring life be shortened because of the lack of driving? I know driving my stock LT1 once in a blue moon puts some overall wear on the engine. Kinda like sleeping for 2 days straight then getting up and trying to run a marathon..
2. Some people will back of their rockers in the off season. If it is a high lift cam where the lift is in the .800+ and the open pressure is over a 1000 then yea its a good idea. If it's low rpms and less lift then they should last a long time. If you wait till the motor warms up then you should have no issues.
06-12-2013, 07:20 PM
#53
221428-16 NexTex conical(beehive) spring as someone already said beehive basically means the spring is smaller at the top than bottom, result is varying frequency so the spring has less tendency to surge and a lighter retainer, both are potentially good benefits.
Not saying beehives are the only way to go, just saying they are available because they have some good characteristics.
06-12-2013, 07:49 PM
#54
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
I bet you were salivating at that one. Buncha illiterate dolts up in this thread.
Actually I think my pile is doing more than 500hp from a track day I was at in nice weather where I was only allowed to run 1/8mi. Ran in the high 96mph range (just looked at slip) through the 1/8th which would equate to about 124 through the traps, as well as the Mustang dyno I was on being notoriously low on peak numbers.
Last edited by SS RRR; 06-12-2013 at 07:58 PM.
06-12-2013, 08:00 PM
#55
FWIW my old Formula runs the Comp 977 springs and the cam is a 226/234 .568" on a 111lsa. We just replaced them after 17 years and 54,000 miles with the same ones, and the new owner had trapped at 122ish mph with them. We just changed them because he's racing the car alot now and due to their age it was cheap insurance. The bottom end is still untouched since it was built in 1995. Its lasted longer than any car/engine I've ever had. The car flat out works and its all in the details of matching cam, heads, converter, and gear.
And on a Mustang dyno it only made 375rwhp...race weight is 3600ish...still has a/c, heat, power steering, etc...
--Alan
And on a Mustang dyno it only made 375rwhp...race weight is 3600ish...still has a/c, heat, power steering, etc...
--Alan
06-13-2013, 09:23 AM
#57
Timeslip will get all you need. Personally I use the engine dyno to tune the injection and then run it at the track. Once the motor is built the track will tell you what is going on. I really don't like chassis dynos, unless you are using them to tune efi.
06-13-2013, 10:58 AM
#60
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
quick95, the only reason I ask is because usually dyno racing consists of those who start squawking about whose car is better and only have dyno sheets for information. None of that is going on here. Seems like you either don't know what dyno racing means or you are doing a little trololol'ing yourself.