While the heads are off, get some smaller head gaskets and see maybe LE could lower your chamber cc while he has them.

Also, that cam is a magazine cam like Caprice said, maybe talk to LE about getting his cam too while you're getting your heads done, then sell your current cam and come out close to even? His cams are much better than a off the shelf grind.

 

A post subsequent to mine stated that the TF heads can only be milled to about a 58cc combustion chamber. But this (milling the heads) along with a thinner head gasket will raise your compression ratio.

And then.....you want to have a cam that's spec'ed to that compression ratio.....AND.....your drivetrain.

Both, LE and AI can do this job for ya.

KW

 

Speaking of Lloyd Elliot.....it's not so much that his cams are 'better' (he mostly uses Comp Cams grinds if my sources are correct) as it is their being tailored to your setup.....something that just can't happen with an off-the-shelf cam.

Hell.....you can look at four or five LE2 HC setups.....and the cam will be different in each one.

Why?

Because each car may have different bottom ends in the engine.....or have different gears in the pumpkins.....or have different trannies.....or the cars could be different weights.....or all of the above.

As stated.....Lloyd Elliot and AI will tailor the cam spec's to your car & setup.

KW

 

I used a GM847 cam with my current Lingenfelter LT4 heads on a combo I had before this engine and it made 399.9rwhp at 6000rpm before I had valve float. Probably would have been a few hp over if it would've gone to peak. So, if you want 400rwhp almost on the button- LPE heads and GM847 cam. Car ran 12.2's @ 114 with 3.73 gears which were crap. 5th and 6th gears were basically useless and the driveablity sucked as well. Make sure gears are taken into consideration when stepping up to a more aggressive cam.

 

Sorry, to me "being tailored to your setup" for the near the same price as an off the shelf cam is "better"

I think the whole point of a "better" cam is one that is better tailored to your setup? I've never heard of a camshaft not being strong enough, etc?

 

Your definately going to want to have a custom tune before running that setup on a dyno. No big deal I think you got the right parts to get the job done.

 

OK.

If that was directed to me.....I have no idea what you're referring to.

KW

 

My car runs great for a lowly street stock car, never dynoed it but it runs the same times as SSSRR ran with 399 hp, and id guess i only have maybe 315 to the tire. It's about selecting the right parts and realizing that salesman don't give a **** about anything but your money, doing your research on a trickflow site or afr site is stupid. And magazines or tv shows or sometimes even builders get the parts they are testing for free in agreement to write something nice.

What cc are your heads? Lets start there.

 

Well....if his heads have NOT been worked, they should be 62cc.....same as B-body iron heads.

KW

 

Summit shows they have 55 or 62. If they are 62 you are pretty much fucked, as you can't (shouldn't) just bolt them on.

 

You are very correct!

TFS-30400010-S = 55cc

TFS-30400010 = 62cc

The fortunate enthusiast would have the 55cc heads. Those can be pretty easily worked....

KW

 

I have the 55cc. So what should the next step be? would I be OK on the stock intake, or search for a LT4 intake???

 

The LT4 intake isn't worth dick but -$500.....The stock LT1 intake is good for 500+ HP, a ported LT1 intake may be worth looking into, especially if your running a big 58mm TB. They sell them on eBay nice and repainted ready to go for $150-200....maybe worth 5-10 HP is my guess over stock, probably a lot more with a 58mm TB

 

Those heads are LT1 heads. Therefore.....you want to use the LT1 intake.

NOTE: The LT4 Intake is NOT an upgrade over the LT1 Intake. It's a piece of hardware that is specifically made for use with LT4 heads.....nothing more. So.....keep your stock intake!

Next step would be to get the heads mildly ported......and milled so that the combustion chambers come in as close as possible to about 50-51cc's. Larger valves are not needed, either.

KW