Dent in Oil Pan??
06-15-2013, 07:47 AM
#21
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I did the pan without moving the k-member or transmission. After you remove all the bolts and it drops a little, you can pull it from the back and rotate the crank so it stops blocking it. Keep rotating the crank while pulling it out the back.
06-15-2013, 01:38 PM
#22
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Alright picked up a new pan and gasket today!
Now its time to tear it apart, my main question is where do i jack?! i dont have a engine hoist so i need to know where to jack and not hurt anything. And also tips on lowering the k member, should i get a jack under it, then loosen the bolts then lower it down?
And then when it all goes back together, how tight does everything need to be?? (TQ Spec)
Now its time to tear it apart, my main question is where do i jack?! i dont have a engine hoist so i need to know where to jack and not hurt anything. And also tips on lowering the k member, should i get a jack under it, then loosen the bolts then lower it down?
And then when it all goes back together, how tight does everything need to be?? (TQ Spec)
06-15-2013, 02:18 PM
#23
for the k memeber there are 3 bolts on each side. take the 2 outer ones out on each side so the middle one is left. rethread the ones you took out 5-6 threads. once the 4 bolts are thread back in each side remove the middle one and the k member will lower down on to the bolts you put in. mark there they came from to hope you dont need a realignment when finished!
if you need to ask torq specs for replacing stock bolts like that just buy a haynes. only thing they are really good for
if you need to ask torq specs for replacing stock bolts like that just buy a haynes. only thing they are really good for
06-15-2013, 02:45 PM
#24
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
for the k memeber there are 3 bolts on each side. take the 2 outer ones out on each side so the middle one is left. rethread the ones you took out 5-6 threads. once the 4 bolts are thread back in each side remove the middle one and the k member will lower down on to the bolts you put in. mark there they came from to hope you dont need a realignment when finished!
if you need to ask torq specs for replacing stock bolts like that just buy a haynes. only thing they are really good for
if you need to ask torq specs for replacing stock bolts like that just buy a haynes. only thing they are really good for
06-18-2013, 03:39 PM
#32
ah it is just like the pic (see black sealant?)
it runs between pan and gasket on the ends of the pan
put gasket on bottom of block (IIRC felpro includes 4 blue plastic studs to hold it up then you put pan on. use a few pan bolts to hold it in place, remove plastic studs)
it runs between pan and gasket on the ends of the pan
put gasket on bottom of block (IIRC felpro includes 4 blue plastic studs to hold it up then you put pan on. use a few pan bolts to hold it in place, remove plastic studs)
06-20-2013, 02:09 AM
#33
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Alright guys i put my new pan in tonight and it was a PITA i ended up having to drop the k frame about 5-6 inches, and now all i have left is getting the shocks back into the towers and getting the drivers side motor mount back in, for some reason the mount is getting almost wedged on itself about 1/2 inch from where the holes line up. Any ideas on how to get it to drop down that 1/2 inch??
06-23-2013, 05:42 PM
#34
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Alright guys got it running today!! It runs fine! and the oil pressure looks good!! It stays up there until it warms up then it falls a bit but not bad at all. It took a few seconds to get oil pressure when i started it, but it jumped right up after a few seconds
