Dent in Oil Pan??
So now the oil pan has a indention of the wood block in the oil pan... I will get a pic, but i dont think its so bad it will hurt anything. I drove it and it has oil pressure everything seems good, so i think im good. How far away is the pick up tube from the bottom of the pan, could this possibly be a problem?? It's never a good idea to jack the motor up from the oil pan, even if you put a wood block under it. You're trying to lift 400+ pounds with some flimsy stamped steel. Put the wood block under the hub instead but be careful not to hit the trans tunnel.
I would drain the oil and see if you can take a look around inside either through the drain plug hole or the oil level sensor with one of those tiny mirrors. If the pan came in contact with the pickup tube then I'd be worried.
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as noted the oil PU is at the rear/center of pan. if the dent is right there the PU is about 3/8" above the pan. If it was pressed up against the pan I would pull it and either push the pan back out from the inside or replace it.
dents in the pan can be no issue but if the oil pick up is compromised you do want to fix that
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Last edited by IB Mila; Jun 19, 2013 at 06:07 PM.
lt1 and im not familiar with the pick up or anything at all so does the pick up bolt on? slide on? how do i know if its bent? what should i get new? Sorry im kind of a beginner when i comes to stuff down in the bottom of the pan
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
Also be sure to use a good quality pan gasket. I like the blue felpro piece that can be had at almost any NAPA. Be sure to be as clean as you possibly can. Before loosening any of the current pan bolts clean around the engine block and pan area as well as you can with brake cleaner and rags. You do not want debris entering you new pan which could cause engine damage.
The K Member is held to the front frame rails from the bottom with 3 large bolts on each side of the car. These are pretty long bolts and you most likely can loosen them up about 3/4" of an inch to allow the K member to drop down without the bolts coming out. But when doing this you must have the engine motor mount bolts removed and the engine suspended with a engine hoist from the top to keep the engine as high as possible to give you the clearance to remove the pan.









