Dent in Oil Pan??
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Dent in Oil Pan??
So i did a header swap this weekend, and putting them in i jacked on the motor to get the headers in each side. I had my buddy helping me that is not exactly good with cars, and i asked him to jack on the oil pan (with a wood block) when i get the motor mount undone. Next thing i know hes jacking up the whole f****** car on the oil pan! So now the oil pan has a indention of the wood block in the oil pan... I will get a pic, but i dont think its so bad it will hurt anything. I drove it and it has oil pressure everything seems good, so i think im good. How far away is the pick up tube from the bottom of the pan, could this possibly be a problem??
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
You probably lost a good bit of volume, just don't beat on your car and replace the pan asap.
It's never a good idea to jack the motor up from the oil pan, even if you put a wood block under it. You're trying to lift 400+ pounds with some flimsy stamped steel. Put the wood block under the hub instead but be careful not to hit the trans tunnel.
It's never a good idea to jack the motor up from the oil pan, even if you put a wood block under it. You're trying to lift 400+ pounds with some flimsy stamped steel. Put the wood block under the hub instead but be careful not to hit the trans tunnel.
#5
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iTrader: (6)
I remember it hanging pretty low when having the pan off so I would imagine it gets really close to the bottom of the pan. How big is the dent?
I would drain the oil and see if you can take a look around inside either through the drain plug hole or the oil level sensor with one of those tiny mirrors. If the pan came in contact with the pickup tube then I'd be worried.
I would drain the oil and see if you can take a look around inside either through the drain plug hole or the oil level sensor with one of those tiny mirrors. If the pan came in contact with the pickup tube then I'd be worried.
#7
TECH Regular
iTrader: (10)
I would limit your driving until you know for sure the dent isn't a problem. Your oil pick-up is at the rear of the pan where it's the lowest. Typically the pickup is only 1/4" - 3/8" max off the bottom of the pan. Like 95 said post up some pics of the dent an location.
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#9
without a pic, can only guess.
as noted the oil PU is at the rear/center of pan. if the dent is right there the PU is about 3/8" above the pan. If it was pressed up against the pan I would pull it and either push the pan back out from the inside or replace it.
dents in the pan can be no issue but if the oil pick up is compromised you do want to fix that
as noted the oil PU is at the rear/center of pan. if the dent is right there the PU is about 3/8" above the pan. If it was pressed up against the pan I would pull it and either push the pan back out from the inside or replace it.
dents in the pan can be no issue but if the oil pick up is compromised you do want to fix that
#10
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/97487510@N07/9041401355/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97487510@N07/9041407507/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97487510@N07/9043627936/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97487510@N07/9041407507/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97487510@N07/9043627936/
Last edited by IB Mila; 06-19-2013 at 06:07 PM.
#17
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
alright guys im going to pick up another lt1 pan tomorrow off another stock
lt1 and im not familiar with the pick up or anything at all so does the pick up bolt on? slide on? how do i know if its bent? what should i get new? Sorry im kind of a beginner when i comes to stuff down in the bottom of the pan
lt1 and im not familiar with the pick up or anything at all so does the pick up bolt on? slide on? how do i know if its bent? what should i get new? Sorry im kind of a beginner when i comes to stuff down in the bottom of the pan
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
The pickup is pressed in.
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
#19
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
The pickup is pressed in.
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
And removing the oil pan is an undertaking. You're definitely going to have to jack up the motor (from a block under the hub or an engine hoist this time) and maybe even lower the k-member a few inches.
I've heard that A4 cars are easier because the trans is smaller and the motor can be jacked higher. My car is M6 so the bell housing/trans hit the trans tunnel pretty quickly. I had to drop my k-member a quite a bit and it took some muscle to get back on because one of the rear bolt holes just wouldn't align.
#20
TECH Regular
iTrader: (10)
You most likely you will have to drop the K member a little so be prepared to do so when you start the project.
Also be sure to use a good quality pan gasket. I like the blue felpro piece that can be had at almost any NAPA. Be sure to be as clean as you possibly can. Before loosening any of the current pan bolts clean around the engine block and pan area as well as you can with brake cleaner and rags. You do not want debris entering you new pan which could cause engine damage.
The K Member is held to the front frame rails from the bottom with 3 large bolts on each side of the car. These are pretty long bolts and you most likely can loosen them up about 3/4" of an inch to allow the K member to drop down without the bolts coming out. But when doing this you must have the engine motor mount bolts removed and the engine suspended with a engine hoist from the top to keep the engine as high as possible to give you the clearance to remove the pan.
Also be sure to use a good quality pan gasket. I like the blue felpro piece that can be had at almost any NAPA. Be sure to be as clean as you possibly can. Before loosening any of the current pan bolts clean around the engine block and pan area as well as you can with brake cleaner and rags. You do not want debris entering you new pan which could cause engine damage.
The K Member is held to the front frame rails from the bottom with 3 large bolts on each side of the car. These are pretty long bolts and you most likely can loosen them up about 3/4" of an inch to allow the K member to drop down without the bolts coming out. But when doing this you must have the engine motor mount bolts removed and the engine suspended with a engine hoist from the top to keep the engine as high as possible to give you the clearance to remove the pan.