LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

cam upgrade ?

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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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Default cam upgrade ?

Need some help just bought a 1997 trans am lt1 but I'm not sure what kind of cam I should get
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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not enough info
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Need more info than that.

All current mods (if any), goals for the car, power expectation, do you want to run stock heads, Auto or Manual? I could go on forever.

Dont even think about a cam unless you already have full exhaust, headers, CAI, and possibly gears or a stall (if auto)
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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It's completely stock only upgrades it has are hooker headers, k&n intake, and exhaust what kind I'm not sure I'm gonna change it to Borla or slp ? Stick shift. I still wanna run stock heads for now. 2 weeks from now I'm gonna buy 4.10 gears
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_89
It's completely stock only upgrades it has are hooker headers, k&n intake, and exhaust what kind I'm not sure I'm gonna change it to Borla or slp ? Stick shift. I still wanna run stock heads for now. 2 weeks from now I'm gonna buy 4.10 gears
Well at least you have a good start then. Call advanced inductions or Lloyd Elliot and have them spec a cam package for you. Or use your run of the mill CC503 on stock heads.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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Off the shelf proven performers are , Comp 503, GM lt4 hot cam, GM 846, Crane 229,
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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And get some 1.6 (steel) roller rockers and new valve springs with a lift capability of about .600".

And.....get your PCM recalibrated for the cam and the 4.10 gears.

KW
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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I have a CC503 cam and Lloyd Elliot heads/intake. I love it and I also have a video of it on YouTube if you want to hear how it sounds. I have Pacesetter LT headers, OR-Y pipe and an SLP LM1 catback. Look up 1996 Trans Am WS6 CC503 cam LE Heads at hot idle on YouTube and mine should pop up.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks for the info everybody, I'm gonna start looking.. @tmanz28 I'm gonna check it out
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 05:32 AM
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You don't NEED steel rockers, crane gold aluminums are good too, but yes stay away from cheap aluminums like proform.
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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AI 226/234 end of story
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
You don't NEED steel rockers, crane gold aluminums are good too, but yes stay away from cheap aluminums like proform.
Compared to steel rockers (CC Pro-Magnums and CC Ultra Pro-Magnums), all aluminum rockers flex too much.

The Crane Golds are just about as good as they come (relatively inexpensive), but I wouldn't use them even if I had a stock cam and not reving above 5K RPMs.

But hell.....that's just me .

KW
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
Compared to steel rockers (CC Pro-Magnums and CC Ultra Pro-Magnums), all aluminum rockers flex too much.

The Crane Golds are just about as good as they come (relatively inexpensive), but I wouldn't use them even if I had a stock cam and not reving above 5K RPMs.

But hell.....that's just me .

KW
a good aluminum rocker is just fine....I ran crane golds for 5 years at 7000 rpm on a decent sized cam with no issues and they're now on a friends motor and been there for 4 more years at the same rpm......ive used them on big blocks with SR cams and small blocks....nothing wrong with a GOOD aluminum rocker
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Old Jun 28, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
But hell.....that's just me
Yep. Just you. Hopefully this isn't the Bert Bower mentality. Nothing wrong with a reputable aluminum rocker. I've been using Crane Race Golds (not really inexpensive at all) on springs that see around 470lbs at full lift for the last 5 or so years. Not one issue. Just checked them and bearings, trunnion and pr cups all look/feel pristine.
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
a good aluminum rocker is just fine....I ran crane golds for 5 years........
Originally Posted by SS RRR
Yep. Just you........I've been using Crane Race Golds.........
I ran them too.

Never again......especially since a new set of Ultra Pro-Magnums cost about $75 less than the Golds.

I mean, if the Crane Golds were steel, that'd be one thing.....but why ANYONE would want to pay roughly $75 more, for any aluminum rocker, versus a high quality steel rocker from a reputable company is beyond me .......

But again.....that's just me, I suppose .

KW
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Old Jun 29, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
AI 226/234 end of story
Really close to what I have for a stock head, mine was 231/234 .564"/.545" 110 LSA.


As far as rockers go, you get what you pay for. I ran steel on the street.
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
But again.....that's just me, I suppose .
What I am addressing is your comment regarding an aluminum rocker flexing. I'm curious as to how you came up with this conclusion. The Ultra Pros are new to the market and seem to be a great rocker. I'm considering those if my current ones ever fail. Pretty sure one of the key reasons why aluminum are chosen over steel, at least in the past, is due to weight and brand loyalty.
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
What I am addressing is your comment regarding an aluminum rocker flexing.

I'm curious as to how you came up with this conclusion........
Ahhhh......but you didn't state that.

Anyway......several tests have shown that even good quality aluminum rockers flex more than steel rockers. And cheap aluminum......even more-so.

BTW.....even good steel rockers will flex; what you want is to keep that flex to a minimum. You do that with steel rockers.

And, of couse, the more your rocker arms flex, the less power your engine has the potential to make.

Originally Posted by SS RRR
..........Pretty sure one of the key reasons why aluminum are chosen over steel, at least in the past, is due to weight and brand loyalty.
Correct. It used to be that the steel rockers were much heavier than the aluminums. But now (and for several years, actually), the steels can be made to be almost as light as the aluminum. And they will often be made to be lighter over the valve than the aluminum rockers.

They tend to accomplish this by having less mass.

Take a look at a CC Pro-Magnum rocker and a Crane Gold of the same application (LT1). The Golds are fairly massive by comparison......may still be lighter, but they NEED to be more massive in order to get close to the same strength as the Pro-Mags. THEN take a look at the Ultra Pro-Mags. These have even less mass than the Pro-Mags due to the 'web-like' design. And everything I've been told is that they are stronger than the Pro-mags due to the use of higher quality steel.

And......both the Pro-Mags and Ultra Pro-Mags are lighter over the valve than the Golds. Being lighter over the valve (the only place where rocker arm weight matters) translates to a quicker/easier revving valvetrain which (as you know) equals a more responsive engine.

KW

Last edited by KW Baraka; Jun 30, 2013 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Typos
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka
Ahhhh......but you didn't state that
Not specifically. Figured my testiment would've been understood, as well as the Bert reference since he too has stated it's just plain sinful to use an aluminum rocker especially with heavy seat pressures. Do you have any links to articles regarding rocker flex?
Being lighter over the valve (the only place where rocker arm weight matters)
Yep, read that too somewhere. Pretty sure the difference between the two are not going to be all that detrimental to most common LT1 setups unless one has OCD and won't feel complete unless every step is taken to eek out every ounce of power possible. Hypermodding perhaps?
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 12:33 AM
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Weight over the valve is harder to control than on the lifter side, definately true.
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