ugod02010

okay just threw the stock coil back in and same **** its only seems to be like after warmed up. and about 4500... OPTI????

ugod02010

I let the car sit overnight. First run when it was only on for about 1min was good and strong but within 4min or so its starting to get down a bit on power and really seems to act up in the higher revs. If I am only in it a little bit and shift manually it changes seemless and doesn't break up but when i get about 4500 it really starts to almost cut in and out.! Don't think its trans related since if i shift normally its fine just when revs get high up? Think i need an opti or is there a way to tell if thats' the problem since its not all times?

cardo0

Never had a bad opti act like that. First opti quit a few times then restarted after cooldown until it finally died. Second opti flat out died.
Missing at high rpm could be fuel (filter) or computer is wacko - any welding on car/exh? May be time for a reflash.

cardo0

ugod02010

I was thinking about the pcm. I don't think thats the problem tho but the kid i got it from had 3.73 gears put in so the speedos off and hell tunes are always a good idea. lol.. I have my original opti still from when i thought that was the problem when i was having fuel issues.. so I am gonna tear shhit down and put the original opti back on and see if it straightens up. Good time to clean up the engine bay. and Clean up the butchered *** wirelooms and **** like that. I am just confused why its only under hard accel and its there when cold but not nowhere near when warm.. ICM seems to have helped some.. Thought maybe it took the MSD coil withit so i put the stock coil back on and it runs better with the MSD unit just still sputtering a bit about 45-5k...

ugod02010

Actually funny you say about welding on the exhaust. Yeah the whole damn thing is welded. Not sure why but they have the cat welded and basically everything else! Why do you ask???? The other day when i put the stock coil back I cleared all the codes.. It was only the eas or whatever for smogpump. I have cycled the engine quite a few times and I have no error messages. I did notice my lterm is -10.9 on both sides is that about normal or is that an implication to my miss,bog,bucking.

cardo0

After a lot of welding for exh work my car was a little wacky - fans coming on and off, SES coming on and off - so i got my computer tuned and now the car is running much better with the computer reflashed (and tuned).

cardo

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

If they didnt disconnect the battery and computer while welding on the car I have heard of it toasting pcms.

ugod02010

Thanks for the info guys. Nah the stuffs been welded for quite a long time. I am really thinking maybe even with the loctite maybe my screws are trying to back out of the rotor or something like that. Cuz it's really runs good as long as I'm just pussyfooting. Soon as I get on it tho it starts getting messed up.

ugod02010

Okay so today I took the car to work(hate driving when it's screwed up but didn't have a choice) ran pretty good all day real good in the 65*this morning. Then this afternoon it was pushin90 so on the way home I was babying it and still ran without missing a beat. Get home shut it off for a while and then go to ur up the store and I made it about 5min and I was cruising about 35-40 and it just shut down. Wasn't hammering or nothin only about 2500-2800 revs. Pulled over and immediately fired right back up. Was bucking and kicking on the way up the hill. Didn't think I was gonna make it. But got it home and left it run grabbed the laptop and everything is reading normal. All except the -5 to about -8 on my fuel trim %. U guys thinking it's my opti trying to fail and just hasn't yet. I am going nuts and don't wanna tear into this yet and waste 500$ on a MSD if I dot have to and it's something stupid I'm missing. Also anyone tried the accell optis lately there is some older reviews most people had good luck with them but they were fairly new at the time. Just wondering how their doing after a few yrs/ months of abuse.

BTC

If you buy another opti, get an AC Delco or Delphi.

ugod02010

Okay so 1 vote on ac/Delphi. On datamaster is the temperature that it reads out for the engine the sensor in the waterpymp that the computer uses or is it the one that the dash uses. Just wondering I heard that temp sensor can make funny things happen when on the outs?

BTC

The sensor that the PCM uses is the one in the water pump. The one in the block is for the temp gauge on the dash only. I suspect everything that Datamaster reads would come from the PCM. And I should qualify all of that by saying I believe that to be the case.

If I were going to buy an opti, I would probably get a Delphi. I believe those are new. I think most, if not all, AC Delcos are now remanufactured. Not that there is anything wrong with that. The Delphi will be cheaper and it should be essentially the same thing.

ugod02010

I finally got to tearing into the car got the waterpump off and the 3 bolts that bolt the opti to the front of the block were starting to back out. Crazy I was making sure when I put everything together I didn't over tighten them. And must not of cranked them tight enough. I am hoping it didn't trash the bearings inside. It wasn't much but enough for the opti to move a bit. Thinking that's why it was most prevalent when I was in the higher revs. I had to wai till I got some cash together today and buy a puller so I could remove the balancer pulley. I am gonna remove the opti and double check the inner workings. I Am hoping that that's all it was but I hate to put it all back together and still have a problem and have to tear down yet again. I have done it so many times it only takes me around 45min to An hr but its a pain. Lol. Thinking Delphi is gonna be what I go with. Cheapest MSD was rock auto Defoe 399. Cheapes Delphi was eBay for around 350$. Anyone know of a cheaper place? It's a 94 motor so it has the splines drive which cost more (stupid older one is more) also I notice I don't think acell even makes a older version opti

ugod02010

I am thinking same thing u said info from datamaster should be the info the PCM is using. The car goes into closed loop just fine so I think that the coolant temp sensor Ian the problem. Think its the wiggling optispark

Epro

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, don't do that. I went through three MSDs in two years.

I can PM you a link to a seller who sells OEM Optisparks if you want.

ugod02010

Plz do. U remember off hand price.? I'm not sure if mine dead since after I pulled everything apart I notice top two bolts were a tad backed out and the bottom bolt was really far out! I think as the motor really got spinning the opti was actually moving around and messing up the timing. I took it off the block and spun the wheel just to make sure it didn't kill the bearing inside. I just hate to put it back together and the opti is actually fucked. I'm no sure how those bolts come loose the opti must have been a little crooked when I tightened them down and once it actually popped into place the bolts weren't actually tight anymore. Something for everyone to take note of. Seems easier to do with the older style splines optis than the clover looking gear drive ones.

ugod02010

Got everything reassembled. Pulled the discs out of my new opti and put hem in the one that came on the car(others were bent from rotor coming off due to no locktite). It's sputtering and breaking up is gone. However now it seems like I have the e take on or something car sounds great but is way way down on power. Don't think I crossed any plug wires but if I did would the car run good just be down on power. No smoke or missing at all just seems like a mustang or something.!