Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

I have installed the 24x DIY kit and have a few questions regarding my DTC codes. My 96 Ws6 starts up fine and will idle nicely for ~20 minutes before shutting off on its own. It'll fire up and idle again, but will cut out after less time, maybe 10 minutes or less. I can get it going once more after that but again, it'll die in even less time.

Here are the codes I am receiving:

P0336: Crankshaft position sensor A, Circuit Range/Performance

P0342: Camshaft position sensor voltage, Sensor circuit low input

P0102 and P0103: MAF sensor circuit low frequency and the latter is high frequency

Any ideas on the crankshaft and camshaft codes? I've searched and read numerous threads and have even double-traced my wires a few times over (this is not fun). I've seen s10wildside mention that the CMP sensor must be treated like an LS2 style, requiring swapping of the wires going into cavity A and C. Not certain if my particular situation requires this. I figured that the harness for the CMP was set by EFI Connections the way it needed to be though? Any help is appreciated.

Edit: I have a base tune right now. I don't have access to HP Tuners, nor any high end scanners. Car is a 96 LT1, Vortech T-trim, M6, 2 Bar Map setup.

Boosted Firehawk

iTrader: (11)

does it have hard starting issues?

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

I had an issue with my crank sensor right off the bat as well... of the top of my head i dont remember the codes but it ended up being a defective crank sensor... ill dig back in my notes and see if i still have it.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

No, it'll fire right up. It's just that, after it shuts off on its own, it'll eventually not fire up again untiliI let the car rest and unhook/reset the battery.

I have read about the faulty crank sensors. This is a new one though from my EFI kit so I'd think it should be fine.

When I get home I'll tell the way my wires to the crank are laid out. Any other ideas?

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

mine was new from efi connection too but still ended up being defective, not sure if theres a test you can do or not to see if its working, im sure there should be.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Thanks maxplusten. What brand sensor did you buy (if you have a vendor and PN that would be great).

I checked my wiring again to the crank sensor:

Cavity A: Yellow wire to Blue 12

Cavity B: Pink wire with black stripe to Blue 21

Cavity C: Solid pink to Blue 2

Anybody see any issue with that lay out?

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

off hand i dont have the part number but I ordered another one through efi connection.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

I just looked at their pricing on a new crank sensor and it's pricey. Might check with the local auto parts store to check with prices on some AC Delco sensors. But before I go on buying new sensors, I will look at switching the cam sensor wiring and see if that helps. All of the searching on 24x cps issues have been related to no-start or start-up issues... and mine isn't quite having that same issue so I am stumped.

S10Wildside

To best diagnose this issue, you can use an oscilloscope to watch the 24x signal from the crank sensor...

If the signal looks good at startup, but changes when the engine runs poorly (or stalls), then the crank sensor is bad. In this case, for reasons I cannot explain, when the sensor gets warm/hot it fails.

If the signal goes bad under load, I would pull the crank sensor and determine if the reluctor is wobbling. This would indicate the crank hub is not firmly seated against the crank reluctor.


If using an oscilloscope, this harness would be helpful to avoid cutting into the existing wire harness.



More at http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...px?ItemId=1073

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Thank you. I really feel like what you described here is exactly what's going on. Unfortunately, I can't pick up an oscilloscope anytime soon. I may go the unscientific route first and buy an LS 1 sensor. Can I use any OEM crank sensor from an Fbody?

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

No you cannot. It is a completely different sensor.

The A/C Delco Number is 213-348
The GM Number is 10456248
The Airtex Number is 5S6085

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

yea i learned that one the hard way to and bought a sensor for a 98 up car... didnt even come close

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Wow, thanks for that fellas. Ok, I'll check and compare prices of the different sensors.

ringmaster72

iTrader: (8)

I had the crank sensor fail as well, did not even make it 50 miles on the conversion. Riding down the road and car just shut off out of nowhere. They sent me a replacement quickly and now I have a couple hundred miles with no probs, but I now carry a spare crank sensor lol.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Ok, here is the latest update when I had the chance to work on the car last week:

Found that a couple of the crank and cam sensor wires were not properly plugged into the pcm. Also found that my MAF wires were not hooked up. I thought I had it nailed after this. I go to start the car up, and it struggles to fire up. When it does, it barely can hold an idle. Good thing is, no more crank/cam/or maf codes. I try it a couple more times, and now it simply won't turn over. I undo the battery and undo/redo the crank sensor. This time, it fires up, but idle is horrible, requiring me to throttle it just to keep it from dying.

So, how did I go from a decent idle that shuts off after 15 minutes to horrible idle or no fire at all?

Is it the 2 bar map sensor wiring? I have it wired now as:

LS1 PCM Blue 48------------ MAP sensor 5v----Map Cavity C (not so certain about this)
" " Red 31----------- MAP sensor Signal----MAF Cavity A
" " Red 32----------- MAP sensor Signal----MAP Cavity B